GLPoomobile 958 Posted April 24, 2006 Having fitted a 1.9 beam to my 1.6, while keeping the original brake line setup, I had to refill the system and bleed it at the weekend (I drained the MC before starting the work). I foloowed the advise in Haynes, but was a bit confused. Cracked on nevertheless but was foiled by one rear bleed nipple with a blocked hole, and a front nipple that sheared off. So, my questions: Haynes say that after bleeding the L/H rear nipple, to expell air in the inertia compensator by pumping the peddle quickly 4 or 5 times . Does this mean the compensator in the engine bay (1.6 remember)? or do they just mean to open the bleed nipple on the L/H rear brake caliper again and do this? Any tips for removing a sheared bleed nipple from a 1.6 front caliper? Drill it out? Generally, what's the best way to do this as I've never blead brakes before? I'm using an easy bleed type thing from halfords. Just a bottle with a tube that you stick on the nipple, a lttle platic tag to hold the tube, and it loos like the other end of the tube has a one way valve in the end. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted April 24, 2006 do they just mean to open the bleed nipple on the L/H rear brake caliper again and do this? that was my interpretation of the haynes when I did a mates 1.6 and it seems fine Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,003 Posted April 24, 2006 Haynes say that after bleeding the L/H rear nipple, to expell air in the inertia compensator by pumping the peddle quickly 4 or 5 times . Does this mean the compensator in the engine bay (1.6 remember)? or do they just mean to open the bleed nipple on the L/H rear brake caliper again and do this? Yes, that's roughly how I do it - drivers side rear is the furthest from the compensator, so start there and then do the passenger rear. Any tips for removing a sheared bleed nipple from a 1.6 front caliper? Drill it out? Drilling it out is about the only way of doing it, but it's difficult to do properly - drill too far and you'll damage the caliper and the bleed nipple won't seal anymore. To be honest you're better off just buying a replacement in my opinion as they're usually a tenner or so each for 1.6 calipers (I've got some if needed) Generally, what's the best way to do this as I've never blead brakes before? I'm using an easy bleed type thing from halfords. Just a bottle with a tube that you stick on the nipple, a lttle platic tag to hold the tube, and it loos like the other end of the tube has a one way valve in the end. It's easier if you've got two people with that style of brake bleed kit, but you can do it on your own. Basically, connect the tube and open the bleed nipple, top up the brake fluid in the reservoir and keep pumping the brake pedal until bubble-free fluid comes through the pipe (top up the reservoir if needed). When you've got bubble-free fluid coming through, close the bleed nipple and remove the tube. Repeat for the other three calipers, and then I usually go around and repeat if the peddle still feels spongy or has excessive travel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hengti 2 Posted April 24, 2006 (edited) i bought one of those easibleed things yesterday - bloody brilliant - pedal's better than i've ever managed to get it using the two man 'press-back' method according to search, alot of people have had problems with them spraying fluid everywhere - so it's v important to connect it all up without any fluid in the bottle first and listen v carefully for leaks. everything has to be well tight i used to hate brake bleeding until yesterday!! i'd agree with Anthony about the snapped nipple - it is possible to drill them out, but v tricky - you'll probably end up needing a new caliper any way good luck with the job edit : just re-read; misread the easibleed thing - get yourself one of the one man pressure ones (as described above) - they're a doddle Edited April 24, 2006 by hengti Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rippthrough 98 Posted April 24, 2006 according to search, alot of people have had problems with them spraying fluid everywhere - so it's v important to connect it all up without any fluid in the bottle first and listen v carefully for leaks. everything has to be well tight A touch of vaseline jelly on the seals sorts that out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GLPoomobile 958 Posted April 24, 2006 Ok so won;t bother trying to drill the bleed nipple. Will be swapping to 1.9 calipers as soon as I get some new drive shafts as I already have the hubs and calipers, so not gonna bother buying another 1.6 caliper. Can I do a bodge bleed on that caliper by just unscrewing the flexi hose and bleeding it? Might not be the best but I'll hardly be using the car for the next few months. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,003 Posted April 25, 2006 Just fit the 1.9 calipers onto the current 1.6 hubs/disks/driveshafts Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GLPoomobile 958 Posted April 26, 2006 Didn't relise that was possible! I thought you had to have 1.9 hubs when upgrading to 1.9 brakes, the same as if you want to go for 307 HDI calipers etc. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,003 Posted April 26, 2006 I thought you had to have 1.9 hubs when upgrading to 1.9 brakes, the same as if you want to go for 307 HDI calipers etc. The 1.6 and 1.9 calipers are all the same offset and fitment. It's the disks that differ in terms of offset between 1.6 and 1.9 to match the differing hubs - if you compare the disks side-by-side you'll see the difference as the 1.6 disk is offset an additional 10-15mm or so. 306/307 hubs are the same offset as 1.9 items, hence you can swap the brakes straight across as an easy upgrade, whereas there's nothing out there that's the same oddball offset as 1.6 hubs and hence no off-the-shelf upgrades from other models in the Peugeot range. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites