smighall 1 Posted April 23, 2006 Hi all, I've been trying to change the cambelt on my 1.6 gti this weekend. Got the old one off no problem, was going to change the water pump and tensioner aswell, but by the condition of the old belt, i'm going to leave them as they are, they seem fine in my eyes. So i put the new one on, matched up the timing marks on the crank and cam sprockets, released the tensioner (or atleast think i have, as i can't really see if it's moving or not, and turned the crank with a spanner one full turn. After refitting it 3 times, the timing holes still lined up after turning it by hand, so i turned it a couple more times by hand, and once again on the 3rd rotation the timing hole on the cam is the opposite side to what it should be. Can anybody please try and give me a clue as to what is wrong? Sean Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonmurgie 2 Posted April 23, 2006 Can you 'see' it slipping when your tuning it by hand? If it's slipping it would suggest the tensioner is not set correctly ot knackered... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smighall 1 Posted April 23, 2006 I couldn't see it slipping at the bottom where i was sat with my trusty spanner, but it was also a bit dark and dindgy to see much at all by the end of it, and i was getting a little pissed off with it tbh. How much of a ball-ache is it to change the tensioner? I've got a new one in the garage, you have to take the cam sprocket off don't you? How do you lock the camshaft with the sprocket off? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davev 1 Posted April 23, 2006 are u sure that your turning the crank twice as one turn of the engine? im saying this cuz the cam turns half the speed of the crank so 3 crank turns will only be 1 1/2 cam turns. so the timing mark will be 180 degres out. dave. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smighall 1 Posted April 23, 2006 are u sure that your turning the crank twice as one turn of the engine? im saying this cuz the cam turns half the speed of the crank so 3 crank turns will only be 1 1/2 cam turns. so the timing mark will be 180 degres out. dave. I didn't even consider that, hopefully that is all it is! I'll have to check tomorrow now as it's pissing down outside. Thanks guys, i'll let you know what i find Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smighall 1 Posted April 23, 2006 One other quick question, with the tesnioner do you undo it all the way to slacken then do it right up to re-tighten it, or does it just keep turning and turning and justs tensions at one point and releases at another point? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
j_turnell 137 3 Cars Posted April 23, 2006 The tensioner is easy to do, have you slakened off the 2 11mm nuts on it. If it spins very freely then its a sign that it needs replacing, remove the 2 11mm nuts and the main tensioner bolt, 16mm and pull it out then that allows you to pull the tensioner off. You turn the end of the tensioner 6mm spanner with the 2 11mm's slackened off to release the tensioner it should push it out. To release it you turn it downwards and it should spring. Then with a pin locking the cam pully turn the crank clockwise gently to get the correct tension, take the pin out and then tighten the 2 11mm nuts and the tensioner bolt, job done. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smighall 1 Posted April 23, 2006 Yeah i slackened off those 2 bolts, but didn't see a 16mm bolt?? I was using a spanner on the square end at the back of the tensioner to turn it, and it certainly wasn't spinning freely, took quite a bit of effort to turn it, so maybe i didn't slacken the bolts enough. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
j_turnell 137 3 Cars Posted April 23, 2006 Yeh the tensioner bolt has a 16mm nut on it that needs loosening first, then you turn the tensioner. The haynes manual covers most of it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smighall 1 Posted April 23, 2006 I was using the haynes joke book as a guide, didn't see i mention anything about another bolt. Is it the same for both types of tensioner? Mine is the spring loaded one Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattmk1 0 Posted April 23, 2006 I was using the haynes joke book as a guide, didn't see i mention anything about another bolt. Is it the same for both types of tensioner? Mine is the spring loaded one You have a tensioner with the two 11mm bolts, slacken these. At the back of the engine, just below your exhaust manifold there is a 16 mm nut which sits on a 6/7mm spindle. Slacken the 16mm nut, then you can turn the spindle to realease or tension your belt. You can lock both the crank and cam using a 10mm peg/drill bit etc, aslong as you can peg both cam and crank at same time your timing should be spot on, but turn her over by hand on the crank to make sure no valves touch before whizzing it over on the starter. Might be of some use to you. cheers matt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
