hengti 2 Posted April 8, 2006 failed the mot (not entirely unexpected) : rear nearside brake performance below std I've been advised that it's likely the caliper piston sticking. Not a problem to replace, but I'm wondering if there's anything I can do to fix it rather than spend £60 on a new caliper - ? can you strip these down, clean, and fit new seals? other question's about the electric windows the driver's window is fine, but the passenger one has stopped working all together. Peculiarly, both switches (ie. driver side and passenger side) for the passenger window have stopped working at the same time. The switch for the driver's window (which works) doesn't work on the pass window. What could be causing this? wiring fault? the fuse is fine are there seperate relays for left and right windows? thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonmurgie 2 Posted April 8, 2006 Not sure about the caliper (though I guess it could be refurbished) but on the window it sounds like either the wire has come loose on the motor or the motor is knackered... get the door card off and take a look Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ryan 99 Posted April 8, 2006 You can strip the rear calipers down and replace the seals etc. A rebuild kit is about £30 afaik. The wiring from the passenger window goes through the passenger side switch, then to the drivers switch for the passenger window, then finally to the drivers switch for the drivers window. So if you trace the connections you should be able to find out where the problem is. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hengti 2 Posted April 9, 2006 'windows' ... i've taken the door card off and think i've located the motor inside the door panel there is a slight whir as i press the switch, but no window movement - presume the motor has had enough - ? next question is - how do i get the thing off? there's not much room to figure out how it's attached; does the motor come off seperately, or do i have to take the whole mechanism out? i know which answer i prefer - but is it the right one!! thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug309twin40s 1 Posted April 9, 2006 you have to remove the motor with the mechanisum. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rom 0 Posted April 9, 2006 Id certainly strip the brakes down. CLean it up, wind the piston in and out to make sure its not siezed or sticky. Give it another go. If ur friendly, they may well run it on the brake roller for u without a retest. Our place does. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
madmat 0 Posted April 9, 2006 Mine failed the mot a few years back on low(or no,cant remember)output from rear caliper,turned out to be the inline valve/restricter/thing to be at fault.Worth considering too. Sorry for being a bit vague,matt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hd_andy 2 Posted April 10, 2006 Mine failed the mot a few years back on low(or no,cant remember)output from rear caliper,turned out to be the inline valve/restricter/thing to be at fault.Worth considering too. Sorry for being a bit vague,matt. Similarly mine failed on N/S Rear Brake effort. I havnt fixed it yet, I gave up and left it on the drive for three months, anyway the point is that the previous year I had new calipers, discs, pads stainless flexible hoses and new copper pipes. So the only thing it can be is the compensator. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hengti 2 Posted April 10, 2006 this talk of compensator vs. caliper is interesting i renewed the calipers on mine about two years ago too i could just stick a new compensator on - but they're almost as expensive new as calipers! plus i'd have to pay for a second re-test if it didn't fix it does anyone know of any way of testing either component to get a definitive diagnosis? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug309twin40s 1 Posted April 10, 2006 this talk of compensator vs. caliper is interesting i renewed the calipers on mine about two years ago too i could just stick a new compensator on - but they're almost as expensive new as calipers! plus i'd have to pay for a second re-test if it didn't fix it does anyone know of any way of testing either component to get a definitive diagnosis? proberbly easiest is to remove the rear caliper then see how easy the piston moves, if it moves easily and easy to wind in and out then caliper should be fine. you can also get someone else to press the brake pedal while you try and turn the wheel(with it jacked up) and see how easy to turn the wheel. also how much material is left on the pads? as these can affect the brake working when they get low Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
