Preparation And Spraying Advice

[futura 3]

Hi all,

 

Here is another one for Paintguy to answer!

Had my tailgate damaged recently:

 

not very well tooled up so I started fixing it how I could:

 

Now going to grinde the sticking out bits, but I need some advice on the next stage:

I was going to spray a zinc primer on the bear metal parts to prevent it from rusting, prior to applying any filler.

However I read different things on the subject, some say don't apply filler straight on bear metal, and others say don't apply filler on prime.

 

In which order should I proceed then?

[smckeown 1]

i cant imagine you'll ever get that perfect ? why not get a replcement from the scrappy ?

[Guest BrainFluid]

Well, you know how we all like to tinker!

 

I aint never dents pulled out like that before, I'm sure its common place but has anyone ever tried a plunger like a sink plunger?

 

I'm sure I read one of paint dudes posts about applying filler before primer. Best to wait for him for the gospels mind.

 

Nate.

[futura 3]

i cant imagine you'll ever get that perfect ? why not get a replcement from the scrappy ?

I couldn't find one in Silver near me, and I didn't want to add the cost of buying one plus the respray.

 

It probably won't be perfect, I'll try though

 

Well, you know how we all like to tinker!

 

I aint never dents pulled out like that before, I'm sure its common place but has anyone ever tried a plunger like a sink plunger?

I think plungers are more when a whole large surface has gone in, it wouldn't have worked in my case.

 

I'm sure I read one of paint dudes posts about applying filler before primer. Best to wait for him for the gospels mind.

 

I PM'd Paintguy, waiting to see what he thinks

Cheers

[Paintguy 0]

It's always best to apply filler over bare metal, unless you use a 2 pack epoxy primer first

 

Having said that, you've got quite a few holes there, which could let corrosion start from the inside and eventually bubble up your filler. The 'correct' way would be to MIG weld up the holes, grind them flat, and fill over that, but you could end up distorting it even more if you're not handy with a MIG (or even have access to one).

 

A first skim of fiberglass filler over them would be my next best choice, as it's not porous, but failing that, just grind away and do your filling, then seal up the holes from the back as best you can. A brush on seam sealer would be best, or otherwise spray plenty of a Dinitrol/Waxoyl type product inside.

 

Hope that helps,

 

Andy.

 

Just to add: personally I would have pushed the dent out from the rear, rather than drilling holes in the panel.

Edited March 25, 2006 by Paintguy

[futura 3]

Thanks Andy

 

I was actually planning to use fiberglass filler to fill the holes from the inside, as I don't have a mig (nor do I know how to weld).

 

Should I also apply a layer of fiberglass filler to fill the bulk of the outside dent (to bring back some rigidity to the metal that's been bent/unbent), sand and then finish with normal body filler?

 

Just to add: personally I would have pushed the dent out from the rear, rather than drilling holes in the panel.

 

Tried this in the first place, but there's no direct access from the inside to where the dent is.

Edited March 25, 2006 by futura

[Paintguy 0]

Yes, you could use a skim of fiberglass filler first, in fact, depending on the depth, it's probably a very good idea.

 

Don't fill it too high though, as it's hard as nails to sand down. Try and fill the dent slightly on the shallow side, so you don't need to sand it very much before adding your 'regular' filler. As you say, just try and fill some of the bulk of it

 

I knoe there's not a lot of room behind the panel, as mine had similar damage, although not as bad. It's just that I'd prefer myself to have to use a bit more filler, than have holes in the metal. I use a combination of long bars and rods to reach inside such a panel, but sometimes even that method fails. For those with access to a welder, tacking a few small screws or bolts on the outside, then pulling on those is a good idea to try. They can be ground off afterwards, leaving no holes

[futura 3]

I took a good note of your advice, big thank you, Andy

 

Now I have a final question, I will spray the tailgate myself, but thinking to get the lacquer done professionally, unless someone here can say good results can be obtained with tinned lacquer?

[Paintguy 0]

There's no reason why aerosol lacquer shouldn't produce good results. It won't be as durable as a professional job (depending on the product they use) but it could look just as good.

 

I'd certainly stick with one method or the other though. Either do it all yourself, or get it coloured and lacquered by a bodyshop. Mixing and matching paint types doesn't always work out, and besides, you may find the extra cost of having it coloured whilst they are lacquering is minimal.

[futura 3]

Ok, I'll have to go back to Halfords and get some lacker then.

 

For those who want to know the price, a mix made to match my paint code in a spraying can of 300ml cost me £9.99 there. If you are lucky and can get your colour off the shelf it will be £6.29 still for 300ml.

[vee6 0]

Ok, I'll have to go back to Halfords and get some lacker then.

 

For those who want to know the price, a mix made to match my paint code in a spraying can of 300ml cost me £9.99 there. If you are lucky and can get your colour off the shelf it will be £6.29 still for 300ml.

 

 

and ?? how did this turn out ?

[futura 3]

and ?? how did this turn out ?

 

Finished the preparation and sprayed the paint today, haven't done the lacquer but won't as I am planning to have the car fully resprayed in May