bitchass 205 0 Posted March 20, 2006 Hi all, My battery light on the instrument panel is coming on when i'm at idle. Its very faint and doesn;t come on when car is at normal running speeds. Could this be: Electrical problem?, which i doubt because knowing pugs it would be either on or off! The start of alternator wearing out? Or other problem which anyone else has had/heard of? Any help would be greatly apprciated. Michael Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pa402 0 Posted March 20, 2006 I had exactly same problem over summer and I needed alternator replacing. First check the charge to the battery. Mine was charging at about 11v and then got gradually worse with the light glowing all the time (noticeable only in the dark). New alternator solved it(until my other battery problems-see another post). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ashley peddle 3 Posted March 20, 2006 sounds like alternator/belt issues. have you checked the belt? should be a little slack but you shouldnt be able to turn it more than 180 degrees... if not that then nab a volt meter and check its making the right voltage? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bitchass 205 0 Posted March 20, 2006 Thanks guys, had a suspision that it might be alternator /belt problems. Will check tonight, where's best to buy alternator, and would you go for a refurbed one or new. I had a refurbed oone on my xs and it did ok, untill head gasket went!! Cheers guys Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ashley peddle 3 Posted March 20, 2006 most people on here will probably have one floating about or any breakers yards / 205 parts etc... i wouldnt bother buying a new one as they cost more than most 205's that are about these days Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Thomson 6 Posted March 20, 2006 I had this on my 309 years ago when I was a poor student. Rather than replace the whole alternator, I just swapped the 'module' or whatever's it's called - essentially the bit under the plastic cover that contains the brushes, the regulator, and the thing that converts AC to DC - I should know what that's called but my brain's died. Anyway, cost me about £8 from my local ignition specialists. Bargain. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted March 20, 2006 If its on an 8v you used to be able to get just the brushes kit so you didn't have to replace the whole alternator. The drivebelt should only have about 2cm of play iirc at the mid-point on longest distance between pulleys, if it can be turned to 90' its to slack imo. Older Haynes manuals even have a guide on how to do it. (its easy & obvious though). Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
timmsy19 3 Posted March 20, 2006 If its on an 8v you used to be able to get just the brushes kit so you didn't have to replace the whole alternator. The drivebelt should only have about 2cm of play iirc at the mid-point on longest distance between pulleys, if it can be turned to 90' its to slack imo. Older Haynes manuals even have a guide on how to do it. (its easy & obvious though). Graham. i better give him his haynes manual back then ps. its is a standard 1.6 8v Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
justinv 4 1 Cars Posted March 21, 2006 had a similar problem on my 306 replaced alternator brushes and worked fine, don't need to change alternator Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest smokinslim Posted March 21, 2006 Slightly off topic but on a similar note, i had my starter motor pack up a year or so back. Took it to my local auto electrical place where they charged about £35 to replace the bushes etc. A short while later i found that i could have got a complete reconditioned replacement off ebay for virtually the same money. Having recently taken it apart myself i discovered i could have easily fixed it myself and i bet the parts don't cost half what i was charged, so it's definately worth looking into it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
