Sam 4 Posted March 18, 2006 Having fitted the new wheels and it still rub, I need to fit some kind of stiffer rear end. Will the 309 beam be enough? I need quite minimal travel. I was thinking 21/22mm bars? They're so bloody expensive !! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest BrainFluid Posted March 18, 2006 (edited) From reading about the 309 rear beam, isnt it wider? I know thats what your after but wont you have a hard time on the other side of the arch? Spacers? Not that I've got a clue remember. Stiffer Damps? See above. Edited March 18, 2006 by BrainFluid Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sam 4 Posted March 18, 2006 I should be ok clearance wise with a 309 beam. I've been told though that because of the width, the extra 1mm diameter isn't as effective due to the extra length. I've always though the dampers were a bad idea. Excuse bad spelling etc, been in the pub since 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacey205 2 Posted March 18, 2006 Someone did the calculations a while back and worked out that the 309 stuff is still an increase in stiffness over the 205 stuff, cant remember the exact values though. Michael Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted March 19, 2006 There are some recent mentions of the difference in spring rates between the 205 & 309 TB's in this topic, most recent rate calculations were mentioned by velcoe200 afaik & are in that topic. Stiffer shocks or the stock hatch method of riding the rear on the bumpstops but that'd kill the on road handling. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonmurgie 2 Posted March 19, 2006 For the cost of a decent 309 beam in good condition (i.e rebuilt) your not 'that' far away getting a pair of TB's for your 205 beam... if your short of ££ then some decent adjustable rear shocks set to their hardest (I used GAZ for a while, now onto AST) will make a significant difference. Though there is no substitution for thicking TB's (and lest not forget the ARB too!). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boombang 2 Posted March 19, 2006 My thoughts on this (Its a collection of thoughts I had for a while on the subject - probably wrong but hey): Stiffer "dampers" will inhibit the way the spring (t-bar) is designed to work. Ideally the spring is the stiffness you want for the setup and the damper just is there to stop continually bouncing - so an ideal damper would have the smallest possible amount of resistance that the spring needs not to bounce? So for example if you have damper X which has fixed bump and rebound at a very high level, if inhibits the spring from moving quickly - go round a very long/collection of right hand corners at high speed it slowly will compress and when you straighten up and continue accelerating the spring will struggle to decompress back to it rest height due to resistance from the shock. On a track where you are usually going right say 40% of the time, left 10% of the time and accelerating 50%, the rear left side (with these very stuff dampers) should be mostly compressed and not allowing rear the suspension to do its job properly? One way a damper may work round it is by having different rates of bump and rebound (Bilstein have this standard?) so to compress is hard, but for the suspension to go back to the correct position is far easier. However, if again the spring is soft and you are loading and accelerating most of the time it still won't have the required spring force to move back to the correct position? So my conclusion was - go harder on spring (t-bar) and run the smallest amount of damping you can get away with. I know this doesn't help this topic that much but its relevant. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrSeuss 0 Posted March 19, 2006 Turret your rear suspension. Save up, i'm sure Sandy would get you a preferential rate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sandy 191 Posted March 19, 2006 Indeed. By the time you've bought torsion bars and decent dampers, there's very little in it cost wise. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sam 4 Posted March 19, 2006 I think I'll go for a 309 beam with perhaps some second hand bilstein rears. Think that'll be stiff enough for little wheel movement over a 1600 beam? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest BrainFluid Posted March 20, 2006 Turret your rear suspension. Excuse my ignorance but what does that mean? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sandy 191 Posted March 20, 2006 Convert the trailing arms to vertical coilover dampers and springs instead of the torsion bars and inclined dampers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrSeuss 0 Posted March 20, 2006 1:1 shock to wheel movement gives far superior rear damping. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
twowheelterror 0 Posted March 25, 2006 Convert the trailing arms to vertical coilover dampers and springs instead of the torsion bars and inclined dampers. kinda like this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest BrainFluid Posted March 25, 2006 Groovy! Did you do that yourself? Nate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paul205mi16 4 Posted March 25, 2006 that does look impressive and has it improved the handling? Paul. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sam 4 Posted March 25, 2006 That looks nice Graeme, what happened to that shell/car? I've just had a call to offer me a free 309 gti beam, so I'll pick that up midweek to rebuild and fit with the rest of the bits. Rebuilding my 205 seems like a yearly thing . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miles 331 1 Cars Posted March 25, 2006 8" rims and a 309 beam will make the wheels stick out way too far, it's bad enough with a 205 one, Ours all rub the arch's but we just replace them from time to time as there only Race cars Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sam 4 Posted March 25, 2006 I have the "wider" antares arches remember... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
