Please Help... Stoopid Bolt :(

[ashley peddle 3]

mistake No.1 - breaking off top of the bolt when tightening it up (it wernt in straight and it just snapped off)

 

Mistake No.2 - trying to use HUGE mole grips to get it off instead of using 2 small nuts to loosen it...

 

so now i have a stud stuck in the hole with no way of getting it out... any ideas? if ****ed all the thread on the bolt so cant use that...

 

ta

[d-9 0]

your talking about the adjuster bolt that you use to tension the altenator belt not the 13mm one u use to lock the altenator in place right?

 

Take it off the car, put it in a vice, get a massive pair of mole grips and do them up REALLY tight and undo it, remeber you can screw it through the metal bit eitherway and dont try and drag f***ed thread through the hole coz it'll stick.

 

If you realyl cant get it out, saw off the adjuster bolt and just use the 13mm nut to lock it in place, do the tensioning by hand with a trolley jack and a bit of 6x4 wedged under the altenator.

[ashley peddle 3]

no i mean the alternator mount...

 

(that the long alternator bolt does through to hold the alternator on?)

[mfield 20]

Get a new mount and bolt ash

 

Will be easier than trying to repair

[d-9 0]

ahh your f***ed then. Rob a mount off the engine thats coming out of pebbles this weekend.

 

You can run for a fair way on the battery thou, I did about 50miles on mine and the car was still running fine when it got T-bone'd

[Anthony 1,003]

If you've cross-threaded that bolt enough that you managed to snap the head of the bolt with the load you were putting on it (which must have been pretty substancial to snap a 8-9mm odd thick bolt) then I'd say your chances of removing it are slim at best.

 

Problem is that with that bolt stuck in there, you can't remove the alternator and I doubt you'll have the required access to remove the mount either. Some serious butchering is going to be required me thinks.

 

Probably going to need a new alternator and bolt, and to remove the mount from the block in order to insert the new bolt (as it fouls the chassis rail trying to do it in-situ).

 

Future lesson - if a bolt still has thread exposed and it's becoming very difficult to turn, then stop and find out why before you break or strip something. Generally you'll either be cross-threading it or the threads are damaged in some way. Don't just keep applying more and more pressure until something gives (I suspect you realise all that now though)

[d-9 0]

Dont be silly mate, just put a longer bar on it, and if it still doesnt work put a scaffold pole on the end of the bar. and then jump on the end of the scaffold pole.

[Guest BrainFluid]

Dont be silly mate, just put a longer bar on it, and if it still doesnt work put a scaffold pole on the end of the bar. and then jump on the end of the scaffold pole.

 

 

!!!

 

On yer wheel nuts sure, but not on stuff like this man! You must be talking about last resort whilst expecting the blot to shear.

 

P.s If I can get to things like this, with a good file I file a straight edge on both sides untill I can get a spanner on it securely, and then if i have too I'll use a longer bar on that. If you got the room Its worth the sweat!

 

Nate.

Edited March 17, 2006 by BrainFluid

[ashley peddle 3]

first of all - the bolt has been snapped off for about 2 months and the car has done about 2k miles since then including a track day.

 

the mount is off and the snapped off bolt is currently acting like a 'stud' or 'locating pin' if you will... dont see why i would need a new alternator or bracket i took that off with ease lastnight along with the bracket... the mount is not damaged in any way shape or form so wont need replacing.

 

i was using my bigger ratchet to do it up as it was at 7pm on a january night in my works carpark - i presumed that the bolt was in and i was just 'tightening' it up and it snapped off... (i couldnt really see what i was doing, lol...)

Edited March 17, 2006 by ashley peddle

[kate205gti 4]

haha! u plank dont worry we'll persuade it out somehow 2moz with some coffee and martha :lol:

[Baz 421]

I don't think it's diameter is large enough to use one but there's tools out there to sort this type of problem. You have a kind of tap & die set, drill a hole (straight!) into the stud that's left, and tap a left handed thread into it and screw a left hand threaded bolt into that, when it tightens you'll then, hopefully, be undoing the large stud.

[steve@cornwall 100]

I don't think it's diameter is large enough to use one but there's tools out there to sort this type of problem. You have a kind of tap & die set, drill a hole (straight!) into the stud that's left, and tap a left handed thread into it and screw a left hand threaded bolt into that, when it tightens you'll then, hopefully, be undoing the large stud.

 

 

I've sorted things like this before with pliers! seriously, use mole grips on the pliers handle to really grip tight and the round serrated section of pliers around damaged thread, I've even walloped this with a hammer without the pliers slipping.

[Anthony 1,003]

Hang on, you are talking about the 21mm bolt here aren't you Ash?

 

If I've misunderstood and you're talking about the 10mm one then that's a different kettle of fish entirely and easy to sort out.

[ashley peddle 3]

there is an 'L' shaped mount that bolts to the block... and the alternator fixes to that... the 'L' shaped mount has 3 bolts holding it on... its one of them bolts that has snapped off

[Anthony 1,003]

there is an 'L' shaped mount that bolts to the block... and the alternator fixes to that... the 'L' shaped mount has 3 bolts holding it on... its one of them bolts that has snapped off

Ahhh... that'll explain it then. The "long bolt" that holds the alternator on in my mind is the 21mm one (as that's the longest bolt, oddly enough), hence how I was baffled that you'd managed to snap that as it would have required a hell of a lot of force. The advice I gave a few posts above was related to that, so ignore that.

 

If you've just snapped the long thin 10mm one, then filing some flats on it and clamping down with some vice grips should do the trick for removing it as there won't be much holding it in

[tom_m 0]

i find a liberal application of heat and shock helps in these situations. if you heat the stud and allow it to cool the diferential cooling between the mount and the stud should loosen it enough to get it going. and twat it a bit too, might do bugger all but it makes you feel better

Edited March 17, 2006 by tom_m

[j_turnell 137 3 Cars]

Think ive just about understood what youve done, so the stud is still pertruding out the block? Just get a stud extractor on it, job done, and pray you havent fooked the threds going into the block, worst come youll have to re-tap to a bigger size and maybe make the hole in the bracket large to fit a larger bolt.