Foltan 0 Posted March 12, 2006 Help! Just fitted some 307 hdi brakes, the 283mm ones. this is mated with a 1.9 rear beam, goodridge hoses and a 405 M/C. Just been giving them a test run and theyre sticking, resulting in alot of smoke after a few minute blast! Theyre practically new brakes so shouldnt be doing this! And both sides are doing it, so its puzzled me!! Im not a boff on car mechanics though, so its likely to be my fault. Any ideas? cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tidypug 5 2 Cars Posted March 12, 2006 Did you clean ther discs before you put them on? If not then the smokwe may just be the protective layer burning off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Col 0 Posted March 12, 2006 happened to me too! was fine after i put a new master cylinder on Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest CB-Dave Posted March 12, 2006 [ab fab] "wheels on fire... rolling down the rooooooooaaaaaaaddd!" [/ab fab] (sorry, it had to be done!) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C_W 3 1 Cars Posted March 12, 2006 Does that mean they are binding then? It must be the rod isn't properly adjusted that goes inside the mastercylinder. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Foltan 0 Posted March 13, 2006 the rod has to be adjusted?! maybe thats it then Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C_W 3 1 Cars Posted March 13, 2006 When the car is park can you push it easily with the handbrake off? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rippthrough 98 Posted March 13, 2006 When the car is park can you push it easily with the handbrake off? And the engine on! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Foltan 0 Posted March 14, 2006 When the car is park can you push it easily with the handbrake off? yeah basically it was fine when i took it for the first couple of tests runs just to check them. but then once id done a few miles, maybe once theyd heated up, thats when they began to stick, as if i had my foot on the brake constantly. I couldnt accelerate if the car was under 3000rpm because it was braking too hard. and by the time id crawled home they were smokign and stunk! but i think the next day when i tried rolling it in the garage they seemed alright! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mi16nut 0 Posted March 18, 2006 My recently installed 307 discs, calipers & 405 (22mm) mastercylinder are also doing this. Had to be trailered home instead of going to Elvington. Commuting trips for the last 4 days have been fine, although the discs were warmer than I expected, so put it down to bedding in, (I could push it OK, but was certainly tighter than before) especially as it seemed to get better during the week. Today, on route from Nottingham to Elvington in York, again OK for 30 miles on the A614 & A1, but after 35 & braking for a roundabout, the brakes felt grabby. Accelerating out of the roundabout it felt hesitant & as I dropped off the throttle it was obvious they were binding. Not on fire, but very hot & smoke from both front calipers. The fluid in the mastercylinder was cold. Question is, why after 35 miles? I presume that the slight binding magnifies over distance & with increased speed, that makes everything get hotter which in turn expands the fluid & pushes out the caliper piston causing more friction? Someone above mentioned adjusting the rod that goes into the mastercylinder. Is this because the 405 mc is different? If so, how do I adjust it & which way? Could be a lengthy process re-bleeding every time & then having to drive 40 miles at fairly quick speeds just to check! I'm convinced the problem is at the mc/ servo end of things. Any bright ideas would be very gratefully received Mark. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mi16nut 0 Posted March 18, 2006 Foltan, I think I've found your/ my problem: The internal measurement of the 405 mastercylinder (where the rod enters) is 45.0mm, whereas the 205 one is 47.8mm. The 'missing' 2.8mm end float is clearly causing the brakes to come on when it all warms up. Guess I should have checked first. The only problem now is that I can't undo the serrated locknut on the rod inside the servo & access is almost impossible. I may have to go back to the old mc for now as I don't want to remove the pedal box & servo now. Has anyone ever been able to get the locknut undone in-situ? Mark. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phil 0 Posted March 21, 2006 Also interested in this as i'm fitting a 406 M/C at the weekend. Is it easy to with all the M/C off the car? Or do I need to remove all the pedal box and servo etc? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mi16nut 0 Posted March 21, 2006 Also interested in this as i'm fitting a 406 M/C at the weekend. Is it easy to with all the M/C off the car? Or do I need to remove all the pedal box and servo etc? No need to remove the servo, so long as you can get the locknut off the brake rod inside the servo & adjust as necessary. I couldn't get mine off! May have another go later & cut it off with a dremel. If needs be, you might have to remove the servo. You must ensure that the rod is adjusted to leave some end float (space) between the end of the rod & the piston inside the mastercylinder. I don't know about the 406 mc, but the difference in measurement between the 205 & 405 are above. Has anyone managed to get that serrated locknut off in situ? Mark. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Foltan 0 Posted March 24, 2006 fantastic, ill see what i can do. You may just be a minor life saver! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M@tt 77 Posted June 11, 2006 (edited) hi guys great post as i have just expereinced the very same problem myself, and this was a lifesaver!! basically my brakes started to bind after only about 3-4 miles of driving but my engine had been runnign for longer so i think the fluid had probably been warmed up by the heat from the exhaust consideralbly before hand anyway i followed m16nut's advice and emptied all the fluid and removed the master cylinder to find the rod which has been mentioned. however before i tackled the rod i compared the 406 m/c with my old 1.9 m/c and found the opposite of what mi16nut had posted above The internal measurement of the 405 mastercylinder (where the rod enters) is 45.0mm, whereas the 205 one is 47.8mm i found that my 205 one had the shallowest hole and the 405 one had the deepest roughly about the same measurements as stated, but the othe rway around, however when i put the master cylinders side by side i found that the section of the master cylinder that goes into the servo was longer on the 405. anyway i did a few calculations and worked out the adjustable bit on the end of the rod does indeed need winding in a bit. so i then tackled the rod and found that actually the rod is removable,it is only held on by a fairly simple collar type thing, what i did was i wedged my jack handle on the brake pedal and between the seat to push the rod out further, i then took some needle nosed pliers and gave it a gentle pull/wiggle and out it came i couldn't find anthing that would fit the toothed bit round the end of the shaft so i just whacked it in a vice did it up nice and tight and used a 7mm spanner to wind the end bit in a few mm i then whacked the rod back in and pushed the retaining clip back on all the way round with a screw driver and put everything back on. The frst time i did it i wound the adjustable bit into far and this gave me to brakes at all, as i dont think the rod and adjustable bit was pushing the master clinder in far enoughwas !! on my second attempt i found that i didn't need to remove the master cylinder/pipes at all!!, all you need to do is undo the 2 bolts holding the master cylinder onto the servo and just gently pull the master cylinder out and then up out of the way very gently with pipes and reservoir still attached. 15 min job doing it that way!! took me 3 hours to find that out Edited June 11, 2006 by M@tt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
