Arb Sizes?

[Guest smokinslim]

Does anybody know what size ARB is in GLD and GTI rear beams?

 

I've had to replace a GTI beam with a GLD one. TBs are the same size. I don't want to open up the GLD beam at the moment if there's no point, but can't help wondering if it's worth swapping the ARBs over.

[pug_ham 245 3 Cars]

GLD ARB will be either 14mm or 16mm, GTi one is 19mm.

 

I don't think the torsion bars will be the same size either, an XS spec rear beam I recently stripped had 18mm torsion bars where the GTi's are 19mm.

 

Its worth it & you don't have to open the beam up to swap the ARB.

 

Graham.

[Guest smokinslim]

Thanx. I'll read the guide on the main site again to refresh my memory on removing the ARB.

There difference between the TBs was negligable according to my callipers, the difference being the amount of rust. Ill clean them up and recheck later. Would that 1mm (if they are 18s) make much difference?

M

[veloce200 3]

Thanx. I'll read the guide on the main site again to refresh my memory on removing the ARB.

There difference between the TBs was negligable according to my callipers, the difference being the amount of rust. Ill clean them up and recheck later. Would that 1mm (if they are 18s) make much difference?

M

24% extra stiffness from 18 to 19mm torsion bar and 16 to 19mm on arb is 99% stiffer

[Anthony 1,003]

If the GLD beam you've got even has an ARB (some don't!) then it'll be a weedy 14mm job, and as a result the car will roll around dreadfully in the corners and probably understeer like a pig as well.

 

Swapping the ARB's over is a quick and painless process and should take you no more than 15 minutes. It's only one bolt at either end - no need to open the beam up or anything like that...

[pug_ham 245 3 Cars]

Swapping the ARB's over is a quick and painless process and should take you no more than 15 minutes. It's only one bolt at either end - no need to open the beam up or anything like that...

Easy job, although you are supposed to fit the arb with the rear shocks disconnected.

 

Graham.

[mbayley77 0]

Easy job, although you are supposed to fit the arb with the rear shocks disconnected.

 

Graham.

 

just out of interest....why???

 

I am sure there must be a reason i just cant see it in my clouded head

[Guest smokinslim]

Less tension on the bar if the shocks r disconnected presumably. ? Doesn't take long to Have them loose anyway.

 

I had a good read of the beam refurb guide the other day, very informative. I'd only seen the lowering guide in the past, didn't realise the others were there.

 

Body roll doesn't seem that bad, much better than with the beam that was on the car originally, but that said my track arm bushes have had it so not pushin it too much at the mo. New bushes r on the way in the week, weather permitting i should have the bar done by then hopefully.

 

I had no idea that a few mm would make that much of a difference Veloce200, can't complain tho. The TBs will have to wait till i play the ride height again. In the meantime i will strip the old beam and have a play i think

[pug_ham 245 3 Cars]

just out of interest....why???

 

I am sure there must be a reason i just cant see it in my clouded head

Less tension on the bar if the shocks r disconnected presumably. ? Doesn't take long to Have them loose anyway.

Thats the reason I understand it, so there is no tension in the suspension when it is fitted & tightened up.

 

I didn't do this to mine first time & everytime I took a quick or sharp right I got a load clack from the back of my car. I removed & refitted the arb with the shocks off & have never had the noise since.

 

I think it was the end plates moving slightly under the bolts even though these were still tight when I removed the arb.

 

Graham.

[Guest smokinslim]

My ARBs have been successfully swapped over now, turns out the GLD beam had a 16mm bar (for anyone interested).