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GLPoomobile

Removing A Cylinder Head

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GLPoomobile

I removed the head from my old 1.9 the other day, and it didn't exactly go smoothly, so I'm after some hints and tips before I attempt the head swap on my 1.6.

 

Basically, I managed to remove all the head bolts without too much hassle (did snap one of my torx head bits though), but the bolt on the exhaust side, next to the dizzy didn't want to play game. It was generally stiff but was working free, but half way through it started to really lock up. I emptied about half a can of WD40 down the recess and tried working it back and forth, but eventually had to resort to using my middle section of exhaust as a breaker bar. After a few turns the bolt snapped and my ratchet exploded :mellow:

 

I'm not bothered as I wasn;t planning on keeping the block, but I don't see what else I could have done in the situation and want some advise before I risk having the same happen on my 1.6.

 

Also, I know that haynes advise using two U shaped bars in the headbolt holes and rocking the head forwards to release it. Without having such tools can anyone recomend anything. I used the headbolts but I was a bit sloppy and when the head came free it took me by surprise, so I may have disturbed the liners. Again I don't want to repeat this on the 1.6.

 

DrSeuss - don't say 'I told you so' :D

Edited by GLPoomobile

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pug309twin40s

the headlbolts are known for snapping quite easy as they rust abit to the block.

 

Next time if the headbolt starts to get hard to undo do it bk up then try undoing again.

 

If the cyl head doesnt lift striaght upwards off you can gentle slide a screwdriver between the cyl head and block and the 2 should separate.

 

When putting the new headbolts bk in use a bit of copper grease on the headbolt threads to stop the bolts rusting to the block.

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ashlee205gti

I rock mine until it decides to free up, using a screwdriver seems like a bad idea to me TBH. The liners aren't made of paper, and nor will they fall over as soon as you remove the head, there stuck in there quite well. Ive had the head off mine 3 times now and they haven't budged one bit.

 

Use a rubber mallet, or hammer and block of wood at the joint, tapping away will help 'break' the join.

Edited by ashlee205gti

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ALEX

You can get to the underside of the head bolts, so when removing them if any of them start to feel springy wind it fully in and clean as much of the thread at the bottom as possible.

Repeat the process until it stops feeling springy.

Also make sure no weight is acting on the head as you remove it.

The last head bolt on a MI16 we took apart wouldn't come out.

It turned out it was because we were holding engine upright with a block of wood under the exhaust manifold making the last bolt come out at an angle as the head came away from the block causing it to jar up and snap.

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Rob_the_Sparky

And don't use a ratchet! They aren't designed to take this sort of abuse, this is what breaker bars are for. They aren't even expensive as they are so simple.

 

Also remember to put the longer spacer back, otherwise when you put the head bolts back in you will crack the block.

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Guest rick03054

I gave my head a couple of dunts either side with a bit wood and a hammer to break the seal a bit then rocked it around using the lifting eyes or whatever else I could get a grip of until it lifted more or less straight up, well didn't slide it off sideways anyway.

 

I don't like the screwdriver idea much either, I would be scared it would gouge the metal pretty badly.

 

And the liners aren't as easy to disturb as you might imagine, I was worried about that but mine were fine. you can actually put a bit of pressure on them before they dislodge.

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maturin23

give me a shout Steve if you want to borrow a breaker bar.

Got a nice Draper twist torque wrench too if you promise to be gentle!

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hodgy

rock it with your hands! DONT do what i did when putting it back together and still have bits left n lable the pipes as ive only jus sorted everything out! took longer to sort the pipes n wires than changing the head gasket.

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GLPoomobile
And don't use a ratchet! They aren't designed to take this sort of abuse, this is what breaker bars are for. They aren't even expensive as they are so simple.

 

Also remember to put the longer spacer back, otherwise when you put the head bolts back in you will crack the block.

 

:)

Oh well, it was cheap crap anyway. Managed to put it back together again but I'll probably buy a better ratchet and keep this one for light work.

 

 

give me a shout Steve if you want to borrow a breaker bar.

Got a nice Draper twist torque wrench too if you promise to be gentle!

 

Cheers. I got a torque wrench the other day but it's just a cheapo Screwfix Direct one. Should be fine for me though.

 

I was going to get a breaker bar as well, but I'll give you a shout if I need one before I get around to buying one myself.

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mickie

can i take the cylinder head off without taking the camshafts out ? im sure you dont need to but i just want to make sure and will i need a torque wrench to take out my cylinder head bolts, i have an 1.6 8v..

 

cheers for any help

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Richie-Van-GTi
can i take the cylinder head off without taking the camshafts out ? im sure you dont need to but i just want to make sure and will i need a torque wrench to take out my cylinder head bolts, i have an 1.6 8v..

 

cheers for any help

 

 

no the camshaft is attached on top of the head, the whole lot comes out. Your thinking vice versa where you can remove camshaft without head.

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mickie

cheers and is it a good idea to take out cylinder head bolts out with a torque wrench ?

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Rippthrough
cheers and is it a good idea to take out cylinder head bolts out with a torque wrench ?

 

 

Nope, shouldn't undo things with a torque wrench.

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Guest CB-Dave
can i take the cylinder head off without taking the camshafts out ? im sure you dont need to but i just want to make sure and will i need a torque wrench to take out my cylinder head bolts, i have an 1.6 8v..

 

cheers for any help

 

You can take it off without taking the camshaft out of the head, but it'll need removing to skim it up or else you will have open valves

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