base-1 17 Posted February 5, 2006 People who have rebuilt their Mi heads.... What hassles or not have you had with valve spring compressors? Looking in the garage has turned up only some old thing of Dads that was probably made before car engines had more than 2v per cylinder were even dreamt up, so I need to purchase one Anybody recommend a make etc that wasn't a pain to use? Cheers Rich Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
madmat 0 Posted February 5, 2006 People who have rebuilt their Mi heads.... What hassles or not have you had with valve spring compressors? Looking in the garage has turned up only some old thing of Dads that was probably made before car engines had more than 2v per cylinder were even dreamt up, so I need to purchase one Anybody recommend a make etc that wasn't a pain to use? Cheers Rich Have a look at this ebay item no 8033889424, i was bidding but modified my own instead(which was last used on a crossflow when i was 17 ).After a bit of searching for one last week the best prices for one were about 25-35 quid from motor factors etc,this one on ebay will give you an idea though,matt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Veero 1 Posted February 6, 2006 The cheaper Halfrauds one won't clear the edge of the Mi head for the middle 2 cylinders. The more expensive (£35) one will, and by the looks of things might do tractor vavles while youre at it. I borrowed a cheapo one and although I could get the collets out, with bodging a socket on the end, getting them back in was impossible, also the £35 one will probably last a good while and many rebuilds. Machine Mart also do a similar tool, probably rebadged for the same price. Veero Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 586 Posted February 6, 2006 Best to make your own. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sandy 191 Posted February 6, 2006 Wrap some insulting tape around the retainer end to reduce the chance of scoring the tappet bores during the violent bit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3Evo 0 Posted February 6, 2006 That big one they do (Sykes Pickvant or something) lets you use the over centre lever and then wind the screws in at the valve end so you can avoid the voilent bit. Sure you're not supposed to use it like a glorified G-clamp, but I was more comfortable doing that than risking scoring the tappet bits. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M@tt 77 Posted February 6, 2006 http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=040211434 this is the one i bought when rebuilding my mi16, the only thing i would say about it is that i had to keep adjusting it for every valve as when the jaws were open it wasn't quite wide enough to clear the head properly to line everything up so i had to wind it out abit then wind it back it, bit of a pain but it's a once only job hopefully Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,003 Posted February 6, 2006 The larger one Hellfrauds sell is what I used and it's fine (if a little pricey) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Veero 1 Posted February 6, 2006 That's the one I got Matt and it was fine for clearing the edge of the head. Veero Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PumaRacing 2 Posted February 6, 2006 Any of the twin lever type will do the job. That Machine Mart one looks good value. Draper and Sykes ones are a fair bit more expensive. The single lever type are fine for 8v heads but won't reach deep enough for 16v heads as the protrusion at the valve cap end is only about 40mm deep. My own is a Sykes Pickavant 660430 single lever which I've had for more years than I can remember and is still only about £20 to buy nowadays. There's a good picture of it on the RS Components web site. It's done sterling service on a vast range of heads over the years but can't handle some 16v ones. To make it work on 16v heads I machined up a 40mm long aluminium extension piece which screws on to the valve cap end of the compressor when I need it and gives that extra reach down the cam follower bore. Of course having a lathe, mill and plenty of aluminium bar scrap knocking around made that a bit easier. Not something the average mechanic is going to be able to do. Quite why someone can't just make a single lever type like the 660430 but with an 80mm or 90mm deep nose at the valve cap end instead of the 40mm they come with I don't know because that would do any head at half the price of the twin lever type. I actually fail to see the point of twin levers because all you really want is a lever at the valve head end and an adjustable or long reach nose at the valve cap end. You then still have to cope with the job of getting the collets in place when you rebuild a head and that's about the fiddliest job I've ever come across when everything is buried down a cam follower bore you're trying not to scratch. A dab of grease to hold the collets to the valve stem is about the best way but you still end up with some of them shooting across the room when you release the clamp. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
madmat 0 Posted February 6, 2006 Here's a pic of the one i modified earlier! It will give you an idea of the size you will need,although its an only-juster with that size clamp.The new end is a modified box spanner with tape to stop marking the lifter bores. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
base-1 17 Posted February 6, 2006 Brilliant, thanks everybody Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
