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JayCC

Citreon Saxo, Overheating Problems

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JayCC

Hi, my friend has a W reg 1.1 Saxo. She was having problems with overheating, so i flushed the whole system, and added some fresh coolant. However the car is still overheating after about 5 mins of idle.

 

-The fan does not kick in at all

-the top rad pipe is boling hot and the lower rad pipe is fairly cold

-Hot air does not come out of the blower

 

 

There is no contamination in the water or oil and the engine runs and sounds fine.

 

Im thinking maybe there is air in the coolant system. Can anyone tell me where the bleed valves are located on this engine? or maybe thermostat is knackard?

 

Will the fan switched need to be replaced if it isnt comming on?

 

Any help much appreciated, regards

 

james

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pugrallye

thermostat mate, could try bleeding too, but since it was doing it before you changed the coolant, its going to 'boil' ahem! down the thermostat seized. but since you changed the coolant, prob needs bleeding through anyway it has an outlet near heater matrix pipes on bulkhead and one by thermostat housing on front right of engine (allen key bolt), rad fan not coming on because water not circulating rad properly, so no need to change that

Edited by pugrallye

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JayCC
thermostat mate, could try bleeding too, but since it was doing it before you changed the coolant, its going to 'boil' ahem! down the thermostat seized. but since you changed the coolant, prob needs bleeding through anyway it has an outlet near heater matrix pipes on bulkhead and one by thermostat housing on front right of engine (allen key bolt), rad fan not coming on because water not circulating rad properly, so no need to change that

 

Hi again. Fitted a new thermostat to the engine. (one of the bolts snapped so i had to take the whole housing off drill out the bolt, d'oh)

 

Anyway i've found two bleeding points. One at the top left of the engine (standing looking at it infront of you) and a allen key bolt top of the thermostat housing.

 

I've renewed all coolant but still having problems.

 

overheating light does not come on anymore after 5 mins idling which is good, and the fan has decided to start working again.

 

However i cannot get any hot air to come out the blower inside the car, it is stone cold (even after 10 mins)

 

The bleed valve on the top left (dust cap type screw) has been taken off to release air, but the pipe it is connected to feels cold.

 

The lower pipe is becomming hot again though.

 

I've tried leaving the engine running with both bleed caps out and the rad cap off for 5 mins. Is there a special sequence to do things?

 

Could it be anything else causing the problem?

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Rippthrough
Hi again. Fitted a new thermostat to the engine. (one of the bolts snapped so i had to take the whole housing off drill out the bolt, d'oh)

 

Anyway i've found two bleeding points. One at the top left of the engine (standing looking at it infront of you) and a allen key bolt top of the thermostat housing.

 

I've renewed all coolant but still having problems.

 

overheating light does not come on anymore after 5 mins idling which is good, and the fan has decided to start working again.

 

However i cannot get any hot air to come out the blower inside the car, it is stone cold (even after 10 mins)

 

The bleed valve on the top left (dust cap type screw) has been taken off to release air, but the pipe it is connected to feels cold.

 

The lower pipe is becomming hot again though.

 

I've tried leaving the engine running with both bleed caps out and the rad cap off for 5 mins. Is there a special sequence to do things?

 

Could it be anything else causing the problem?

 

 

It's because that bleed screw is higher than the reseivour :)

Try cutting a bottle in half and screwing it into the expansion tank, then fill it with coolant and open the bleed screw. Even better, park the car facing uphill at the same time for a little extra height.

Is there not a 3rd bleed screw on the nearside of the radiator?

Edited by Rippthrough

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Pugnut

when i did the wife HG it took me ages to get all the air locks out . i'm sure there are a few bleed screws on these engines , i also find squeezing pipes etc helps to push the air out.

 

good luck

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JayCC

I'm not sure what the deal is with this upturned coke bottle?

 

The expansion tank runs the length (vertical) of the rad drivers side.

 

The coolant level is near max, but when i take the bleeding points out, no fluid is released. If i top it up any more the coolant will go above max level.

 

Im a little worried about doing this as its not my car. :)

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Rippthrough
I'm not sure what the deal is with this upturned coke bottle?

 

The expansion tank runs the length (vertical) of the rad drivers side.

 

The coolant level is near max, but when i take the bleeding points out, no fluid is released. If i top it up any more the coolant will go above max level.

 

Im a little worried about doing this as its not my car. :)

 

 

Does matter bout it going over max when your trying to get air out.

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pugrallye

yes, your aim is to get the expansion tank as the highest point in the coolant circuit, so as to force the air out

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JayCC

So it needs to look something like this...?

 

saxo2.JPG

Edited by JayCC

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jonD6B

Once the air is out of the system the fluid will drain through also allowing the coolant to re find it's own level. Anything left above MAX. will just be purged out naturally through the expansion tank returning the level to normal.

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