Fitting Larger Oil Cooler

[cybernck 402 1 Cars]

I'm not using an oil cooler at all... oil is getting to the over heating stage with the standard Mi after 15/20 minutes on track.

and this is why:

 

I don't have any kind of oil cooling, not even a finned sump (it's a BX motor).

believe it or not, finned sumps are VERY effective at oil cooling!

[Sandy 191]

Mini-hijack.

Where's the oil/coolant exchanger from?

For the TU? 106 Rallye/XSi or Saxo VTS.

 

pugtorque- Something I thought about after writing that post, is the way the oil-coolant type is plumbed might well affect the way it operates. I was using the type of top hose that splits some "hot" coolant down to the heat exchanger, but only once the thermostat is open. If the heat exchanger is plumbed for a continuos feed in the heater loop (this is how i did my first Mi conversion), then I expect it could slow down warm up.

 

I do question the validity of using the standard gauge to asess oil temperature. Investing in a proper gauge was enlightening for me! But I accept they aren't cheap.

 

Alloy sumps are very effectiveat cooling, I definately agree with that.

[Jonmurgie 2]

cybernck - I know why it's getting hot and I know the finned sump will help but that's not what I have now...

 

Basically this is all about the oil cooler I'm going to run with the new engine, some parts on this engine have been specified with an Oil Cooler in mind and that's why I'm going to fit one... the sump will not be finned or un-finned...

[C_W 3 1 Cars]

Surely it must be one or the other, or do you mean it won't be a "steel" non-finned sump or an alloy finned sump? (eg is it a smooth alloy one?)

 

In road use I hardly get the oil temp much more than a 1/4 up the gauge but on track when its under heavy load and high revs (never usually less than 5000rpm) the temp usually rises and settles at around 2/3 to 3/4 if its cool but can get towards the end of thegauge if its a warm day (standard air oil cooler and sump, standard engine).

Edited February 1, 2006 by C_W

[mfield 20]

the sump will not be finned or un-finned...

 

 

 

 

Does that mean it will be dry sumped ?

Edited February 1, 2006 by mfield

[jackherer 543]

even if it has a dry sump its going to be either finned or un-finned (I suspect the latter ) there isnt a third state

[Jonmurgie 2]

dry sump.... maaaaaaaaaaaaaybe...

[Batfink 201]

then you will be running a larger capacity of oil than a standard system so an oil cooler may be pointless

[C_W 3 1 Cars]

then you will be running a larger capacity of oil than a standard system so an oil cooler may be pointless

 

 

Why does it have to be larger capacity if its dry sumped? I'd have thought it would be the same or run less since it doesn't need a wet sump to splash excess oil around?

[Batfink 201]

Why does it have to be larger capacity if its dry sumped? I'd have thought it would be the same or run less since it doesn't need a wet sump to splash excess oil around?

 

 

you will have nice large pipes hopefully to carry the oil to and from your tank.

Tank in the rear?

Then you want a good size tank to stop any issues of foaming/airation of the oil

 

Realistically if the tank is in the rear there will be around 7 or 8 litres of oil in the system with a greater capacity for absorbing heat and releasing that heat away from the engine

Edited February 1, 2006 by Batfink

[Jonmurgie 2]

In that case maybe I will just get an accurate oil temp gauge and see how it goes... it's just that I was adviced that I would/should need one

Edited February 1, 2006 by Jonmurgie

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Sounds fancy Jon, accusump or proper dry sump?

believe it or not, finned sumps are VERY effective at oil cooling!

Slightly to good in winter ona 205 GTi imo, thats with the air / oil cooler covered to prevent airflow through it!

pugtorque- Something I thought about after writing that post, is the way the oil-coolant type is plumbed might well affect the way it operates. I was using the type of top hose that splits some "hot" coolant down to the heat exchanger, but only once the thermostat is open. If the heat exchanger is plumbed for a continuos feed in the heater loop (this is how i did my first Mi conversion), then I expect it could slow down warm up.

Sandy, its the type with two pipes off the top hose down to it after the thermostat. I've decided to day after barely getting any oil temp indicating on a hours drive that I'm swapping back to a tin sump & the oil water heat exchanger with an 82' thermostat.

 

Graham.