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Guest sibbers

Drivers Side Engine Mount

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Guest sibbers

Trying to get to cam belt cover (and the 21mm alternator bolt that goes beyond my toolkit sizes available) and it looks much easier without that mount in the way.

 

Do I need to get a jack under the engine and if so where should I jack it from, the sump seems like a bad idea.

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Guest sibbers

OK, the answer is yes it needs supporting and I've used a trolley jack under the sump with a piece of wood (cut down fence post) to spread the load across the jack.

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sherly

I debated taking off the engine mount when I did the cambelt yesterday, to make things easier to get to, and decided it was too much grief.

 

Managed to change the belt with it in situ - theres a few fiddly fixings to get to though!

 

Mart :)

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Jonmurgie

Yeah, just support the engine with a trolly jack under the sump... though as has been said you don't really need to remove the mount to do the cambelt, once you get the loom out the way and the cover off it's not 'that' bad!

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Guest sibbers

It's a bloody nightmare getting the cover off! The french are probably laughing their heads off at us engleesh fools for taking on these cars!

 

Once the cam cover is off I'm hopng its plain sailing from there. Job still not done! grr... any tips fresh in your mind Sherly..?

 

BTW removing the mount didn't really reveal anything much to my disbelief!

Edited by sibbers

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sherly

Once the cam cover is off I'm hopng its plain sailing from there. Job still not done! grr... any tips fresh in your mind Sherly..?

/quote]

 

Is your belt cover split into three parts? I had one steel part, which covers the cam pulley up to the engine mount casting, one plastic part which surrounds the crank pulley and another plastic part which covers the rest, between the bottom of the engine mount casting to the bottom plastic cover.

 

All are held on with a variety of nuts and bolts, ranging in sizes. I used a range of spanners and a 1/4" drive ratchet/sockets as this was small enough to get on some of the fixings.

 

8mm, 10mm, 11mm and 13mm spanners and sockets should do the trick.

 

It is very cramped for space though - be warned!

 

Mart :P

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Guest sibbers

Wow your called Mart too? crazy!

 

Yeap got all the covers off now but the bottom one as the crank pulley bolt won't come off. Need a friend to sit on the brake pedal for me while its in gear I think, although I reckon it's still gonna be tough.

 

After that I'm at a loss but I imagine (well, I hope) it should be fairly easy - I see the markers on the cam pulley anyway. Not sire about tensioner as yet but... well, we'll see. I'll bend the ears (or eyes) of this forum when I get stuck :P

 

I have to say RWD engines are much easier to work on!

 

Cheers! :P

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sherly
Yeap got all the covers off now but the bottom one as the crank pulley bolt won't come off. Need a friend to sit on the brake pedal for me while its in gear I think, although I reckon it's still gonna be tough.

 

Take the cover plate off the gearbox which reveals the ring-gear and get a friend to jam that to lock the engine when trying to undo the crank pulley bolt. Seemed to work quite well for me and you risk damaging less doing this way.

 

I must admit the crank pulley bolt and the tensioner were the two doubts in my mind when I started the job but it all went smoothly and I got it all done in about 4 hours.

 

Which is good considering I had to drive the car home from the workshop afterwards :P

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Guest sibbers

Well, I got the crank puley bolt off and now I've even got the two bolts on the tensioner slackened. But I can even find the 3rd bolt on the rear? I've looked everywhere and it just doesn't makes sense. I bet its really obvious too. The haynes picture shows something I cant actually recognise at all... bugger!

 

infact - can you see it in this pic? or is it somewhere else?

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?a...ype=post&id=158

 

help! :P

Edited by sibbers

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sherly

The fixing you're after is part of the cam which forces the tensioner into position (arrowed on the link below).

 

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/sher...5/crank_pin.jpg

 

If you look down the back of the engine, behind where the cam tensioner is you should see it.

 

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/sher...nsionerbolt.jpg

 

It has a lock nut (16mm socket/spanner) which needs to be loosened. Access is quite difficult but not impossible.

 

Then a 6mm spanner is needed (on the flats) to rotate the cam to pull the tensioner away from the belt. It'll become obvious when you try to rotate it.

 

Hope this helps. :P

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GLPoomobile

Can you describe where the bolts are that hold on the covers? I have a 1.6 which has the metal cover and a 1.9 which has the plastic cover.

 

The 1.9 is my immediate priority. The front bolt is missing so the cover can kind of tilt backwards, so I figure there must only be one other fixing as it is pivoting on something, but I have felt down the back and can;t figure out where it is fixed.

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Guest sibbers

Wow sherly, above and beyond mate!

 

Its weird but if you feel down teh back off the engine from the top then you can feel a 16mm nut on a rod with a square nd... you have to feel about till you get it.

 

Shame this car requires all the tools I dont have in my £150 halfords pro kit!

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Guest sibbers
Can you describe where the bolts are that hold on the covers? I have a 1.6 which has the metal cover and a 1.9 which has the plastic cover.

 

The 1.9 is my immediate priority. The front bolt is missing so the cover can kind of tilt backwards, so I figure there must only be one other fixing as it is pivoting on something, but I have felt down the back and can;t figure out where it is fixed.

 

The plastic covers are all bolted on from the front, but there is one bolt I didn't find for a while which is quite high under the mount (but still on the face of the cambelt cover) the only thing on the rear to get is the tensioner adjusting cam (the 16mm/6mm bolt/square)

 

Finally I've got it done btw, had to improvise with a star shaped socket for the 6mm end and an adjustable spanner for the 21mm bolt on the alternator. Having done the job I could do it a lot quicker again, but what a pain to learn! I hope clutch changes are easy - if they're not I think I'll throw money at it instead!

Edited by sibbers

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