Cactus 1 Posted January 6, 2006 1. There is an excel spread sheet link floating about on here showing the mi-16 and 205 connectors. Has anyone found the starter wire and the switched + to be the other way round i.e. switched + on the 6 pin plug and the starter on the 9 pin plug .Here is a bit of the sheet, is it incorrect or is this just another pug anomaly? connector (brown) 1 52 reverselight 2 53 reverselight 3 47 coolant light 4 47A coolant meter 5 7A alternator 6 30 oilpresure meter 7 30A oiltemp meter 8 30B oilpresure light 9 2 switched + connector (brown) 1 47B coolant fluid level 2 76 fuelpump 3 M47B coolant fluid level 4 112 rpm meter 5 74 K-light 6 46 startermotor 2. Just when I thought I had this cracked I switched the ignition on and the coil got warm, then hot, then melted. Im rechecking the wiring at the moment. Any ideas? I measured the voltage on the plug to the coil and found no signal on 2 terminals about 6v on one and 12v on the other. Cant remember which was which though. Things only want to catch fire when I connect the coil. I can switch the ignition on with the coil disconnected and nothing else seems to get hot. Anyone got any ideas? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,003 Posted January 6, 2006 1. There is an excel spread sheet link floating about on here showing the mi-16 and 205 connectors. Has anyone found the starter wire and the switched + to be the other way round i.e. switched + on the 6 pin plug and the starter on the 9 pin plug .Here is a bit of the sheet, is it incorrect or is this just another pug anomaly? Yeah, there's a difference between starter and 12v ignition on different year cars as you've found. 2. Just when I thought I had this cracked I switched the ignition on and the coil got warm, then hot, then melted. Im rechecking the wiring at the moment. Any ideas? I measured the voltage on the plug to the coil and found no signal on 2 terminals about 6v on one and 12v on the other. Cant remember which was which though. Something sounds very wrong there. You should be seeing +12v on each pin (or you do when the coil's connected certainly) - the negative marked pins are grounded via the ignition amp to get the coil to fire. Try unplugging the ignition amp and seeing what voltages you're getting to the coil then. I'm wondering if the ignition amp is trying to ground two of the pins low all the time, and that's causing the coil to overheat and burn out... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cactus 1 Posted January 7, 2006 Thanks for the reply Anthony, I am not sure what the problem was but I went back through all the wiring where the looms were spliced pulled it apart checked it and did a few continuity tests etc. When I put it all back together it seemed ok. With the ignition on I now have 12v at each terminal and the coil isnt getting hot. which is a relief as it would be £30 up in smoke. If I ever get this thing started I will be amazed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
