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Dream Weaver

Emerald Problems :(

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16v205

I split a mi16 loom to make mine, so used the original cable also. Most beemers and vauxhalls of similar age also used motronic so worst case should be able to grab a good length of cable off one of them.

 

Rich

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Robsbc

My mate didn't use shielded wire on his wiring for his Emerald ECU for the CAS and it still fires up but he gets interference at 1200rpm....The ECU looses signal momentarily (i.e ECU light fickers).

 

Rob

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Dream Weaver

I also used the original shielded cable from my BX loom as it was in good nick.

 

The cable's fine as the ohms reading is the same whether at the CAS or right back at the ECU plug.

 

Anyone any other ideas on what I can try? Think I will order a new crank sensor from somewhere to eliminate that. ECP do them, but only for the 2.0 Mi16, I assume this is the same?

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Dream Weaver

Just thought, something else to throw into the equation. :blush:

 

For the ECU loom I added the wires for the MAP sensor, even though i'm not using one - it was mainly to future proof the loom if I decide to turbo it at any point so the MAP connector will just sit down by the inlet.

 

Will this cause problems with the ECU thinking it has a MAP, or will it just ignore the wires if there is no signal?

 

Dont think this is linked to my non-starting problem, but thought I should throw it in as well.

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tom_m

how have you ended the wires for the map sensor? if memory serves i remember reading a post saying you will get random fluctuations from unended connections and you need to put in a ballast resistor to give it a null value as far as the ecu is concerned. if you do a search i'm sure i read it on here recently, or failing that email emerald.

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16v205

Dont worry about the map sensor wiring. Ive the same on my loom and its not an issue. Ive just taped the terminated ends up, theres no map sensor installed (Although I did take it to Emerald with me to give a mapping option)

 

Rich

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DrSeuss

you should tie the map sensor input to either rail voltage or ground (depending on instructions from emerald). Leaving it 'floating' won't have any effect on your current problems.

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Dream Weaver

You can see the map sensor wire in this pic, I just added a new connector on the end so I could add the MAP sensor in the future: Its the circular wire just on the bodies - it will be tied out of view when I tidy the loom up (if I ever get it working)

 

CIMG2957.jpg

 

Banjo is sending me a spare crank sensor now, so will see if that works. If this third sensor doesnt work then its square one time. :D

 

I NEED to drive the car :blush:

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Ross

I used a late 205 toothed flywheel and an MI16 CPS. Found when it test fitted it all off the car that even using the standard gearbox mount (at the tope of the gearbox) that the gap between sensor and flywheel was 2.5mm (or there abouts). I filled the gearbox mounting down to close this gap down to 1.0mm. I did post about this earlier this year.

 

Just a thought but have you got the same problem and therefore the sensor is not picking up the teeth? Mine was easy to check off the car with a depth gauge, but doubt you can do it accurately enough on the car. You could pop the sensor out and put a bit of blue tack on the end and refit it, then remove it and see how much the blue tack is compressed!

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Dream Weaver

I thought about that - the sensor comes out easy enough i've found, so I can just measure from the top of the mount on the gearbox down to the flywheel, then measure the length of the sensor and subtract the 2 to get the distance.

 

However, the sensor and flywheel fitted are the same items I had on the old engine and that ran fine (apart from the blue smoke :D )

 

It's worth a measure though to eliminate it, so will try it tomorrow. The Emerald may be more sensitive to crank position than the Motronic 4.1 was. :blush:

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pug_ham

Simon, I've got a spare CAS you could've tried if I'd thought about it, I was in Burnley yesterday so could've called round with it.

 

Graham.

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Dream Weaver

Thanks Graham, but Banjo is sending me a spare in the post so I will try that first. :D

 

May be worth trying yours after that, but if 4 sensors dont work then something else is wrong somewhere. :blush:

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Dream Weaver

Received the new CAS from Banjo this morning (thanks Ben).

 

Haven't tried it yet, but according to Karl at Emerald the ohms resistance between the 2 pins on the CAS should be between 600-1200 ohms.

 

My original CAS showed no readings, so I changed to my old Bosch CAS and it read 515ohms.

 

The new CAS from Banjo is reading 525ohms. Am I doing something wrong, surely 3 CAS cant be not working???? I do need to try starting it with the third CAS yet and it may work, but I have a feeling it wont, and I dont understand why the ohms readings are out?

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16v205

If I get time tomorrow ill measure mine again at the ECU plug, and also at the sensor. Let you know what the ohms are.

 

Rich

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Dream Weaver

Cheers Rich, i'm starting to worry that i've wired the ECU plug in the wrong way round now, but then surely it wouldnt power up and the tacho and the fuel pump wouldnt work?

 

Going to try the new CAS this arvo, and also measure its distance to the flywheel.

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16v205

I was going to ask if you could take a close up pic of the connecting side of the ecu plug and post it up here, as it sounds more likely to be the issue if Banjo's CAS doesnt work aswell. Actually either side of the plug will do, I just want to be able to see what pins are wired up.

 

Have you set the emerald back to inductive pickup for the cas? The pug CAS is not a digital type sensor.

 

Rich

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Dream Weaver

Rich, everything set back to inductive, 4 cyl, twin spark ignition and crank for sensor type. Also measured the CAS distance to flywheel and its about 1.5mm.

 

Just tried the third CAS and still nothing, just spins on the starter continuously.

 

Fairly sure the ECU plug is wired in correctly, the only worry was that the Emerald manual showed the pin numbers and the diagram had "Rear view of plug" showing the round holes. To me the rear view is where the wires go in (hence the round bits) and is what I based the wiring on, the front is where it plugs into the ECU. As said, if I had reversed the pin numbers, then the ECu would not got any power to start with.

 

I do have a Toad immobiliser on there, but that clicks off as it used to and was never wired into any of the old loom plug, so I haven't changed any wires to do with that.

 

I'm stumped now.

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16v205

The middle row of the ecu plug is offset, so its easy enough to see what way around its being referenced to, but im with you on the diagram. Cant remeber which way around it is myself now, but it makes sense to show the side of the plug that you'd be putting the wires in from.

 

Does the emerald just have a red light on when cranking?

Im right out of ideas now tbh, as long as the emerald is powered it should detect a cranking signal regardless of an imobaliser.

 

Rich

Rich

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M3Evo

It's not something silly like a bad connection between the ECU plug and the CPS plug is it? Can't remember if it says it's been checked up there :(

 

EDIT> The immobilisor should only be able to interrupt the signal to the pump and starter so if they're both working it's fine :(

Edited by M3Evo

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Dream Weaver

I'm fresh out of ideas on this one. ;)

 

Will have to buy a 4th CAS I think just to make sure. The wiring is fine as the multimeter readings are the same either at the CAS or the ECU end.

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pug_ham

Simon, if you want I can come across in my GTi & we can test the CAS on there to see if they work or not & I'll bring my spare.

 

Graham.

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Dream Weaver

Thanks Graham, will try Emerald again see if there's anything obvious i'm not doing then we can try one of your CAS see if that works.

 

Can anyone take a multimeter reading (Rich?) to see what ohms measurement is being generated by their CAS?

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M3Evo

Couldn't just be a faulty Emerald could it?

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16v205

Got to go to the car auctions now, but ill check mine when I get back tonight. Ill try take a photo aswell just to confirm its the same pins im testing as you ;)

 

Rich

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pug_ham

Simon, are you testing ther pins on the CAS for resistance or the Emerald pins? I have a spare CAS here & measuring across pins 1 & 2 (out of three) I get a reading of 373ohms, rest of them I get no reading.

 

Graham.

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