smckeown 1 Posted September 20, 2005 Is it possible to easily drop the tank by about say an inch easily ? I only need to lower the near side to run some new brake line Would appreciate some advice cheers sean Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick-rallye 0 Posted September 20, 2005 I THINK it doesnt drop at the ends it tilts towards the front of the car but it does move down slightly on the passenger side. the filer neck keeps it up on the drivers side Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrSeuss 0 Posted September 20, 2005 It hinges about the seam underneath the rear seats. Two bolts at the front and the rear of the tank sits ontop of the seam. Undo the filler neck and drop it down, there should just just be clearance to fit your brake lines. they need to run flush against the top passenger side of the car otherwise they'll be caught by the tank. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smckeown 1 Posted September 20, 2005 It hinges about the seam underneath the rear seats. Two bolts at the front and the rear of the tank sits ontop of the seam. Undo the filler neck and drop it down, there should just just be clearance to fit your brake lines. they need to run flush against the top passenger side of the car otherwise they'll be caught by the tank. Are these the front bolts ? is this relevant ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonmurgie 2 Posted September 20, 2005 Good luck, I tried removing a petrol tank and all the bolts were well seized so be prepared for a mission! I believe you undo the bolts, it tilts down at the fornt of the car and pulls forward off the ledge (that's in your second pic I think). Mind you, I never got mine off so I could be totally wrong! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrSeuss 0 Posted September 20, 2005 Just realised i was giving the wrong point of reference, as you get under the car you'll see the 'front' which is the bit closest to the rear. Confused.... you should be :S The second picture is the hinge the tank sits in/on there are two bolts just in front of the rear beam (using the front as the front now....). What you've also pictured is the exhaust heatshield. My car didn't have one of these.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smckeown 1 Posted September 20, 2005 both rear bolts are undone (for once something isn't too rusty) , so just looking for help on the next step Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,003 Posted September 20, 2005 Jon's basically on the right lines. Once you've removed the beam strap (3 x 16mm nuts - two of which you've pictured above), all that holds the fuel tank in is two 13mm nuts at the back of the fuel tank - these should be obvious enough when you're underneath the car. Undo the jubilee clip that holds the filler pipe onto the tank, and then with the tank supported at the back, undo the two 13mm nuts (lots of penetrating spray is a wise move!). The tank will drop down at the back (sometimes it sticks a little on the bodywork), and then pull backwards and off the rear hook/ledge thing (as pictured above in your second photo). If you're going to remove the tank completely, you'll need to disconnect the fuel lines and breathers from the top side of the tank. I strongly recommend having the fuel tank nearly empty for this, otherwise it's heavy and you'll likely spill fuel everywhere from the filler. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alastairh 47 Posted September 20, 2005 As Anthony said. But a little personal experience tip. Do put LOTS of Wd40 on them to 13mm bolts. When i removed the tank out my old 106 (same principle) them two bolts sheered off, and ended up cutting the bolts back (when the tank was out) and welded in to new bolts in. It was a mission Alastair Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smckeown 1 Posted September 22, 2005 removing the strap help on by the rusty nuts is not fun I can tell you. Already broke one of the clamp bolts! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,003 Posted September 22, 2005 removing the strap help on by the rusty nuts is not fun I can tell you. Already broke one of the clamp bolts! You'll not want to hear then that was the easy part - I've removed more of those clamps than anyone on here I should imagine (as the easiest way to remove a 205 beam is to remove that strap from the car) and they're generally pain free compared to the fuel tank bolts... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smckeown 1 Posted September 22, 2005 so now i have to lift the carpet to replace the bloomin bolts..arrggh my post named 'one job leads to another' should contain this lot: Brakes not working need to bleed the system Bleed the rear cylinder and bleed nippe brakes Replace the cylinders and brake line snaps Replace brake lines but need all new rear brackets (braided line vs. copper) Need to run braided hose to front so need to drop tank Dropping tank breaks bolts Need to lift carpet to replace bolts Need to remove seats to replace bolts Need to replace Servo but not enough room Need to either undo lower mount to make room, if this fails Undo all engine mounts and move entire engine forward Cant undo all mounts as car is on a sloped drive Need to fixed bar car over to garage in order to get level ground Garage full with gav's blown mi16 In between all that lot there's been other issue slike earls messing up my order 3 times with incorrect ends etc This is no joke I'm so lucky i'm still unemployed currently, as this is a full time job Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Adam Kindness Posted January 23, 2006 how much lee-way do you have with the tank unbolted, and all fuel line/brake pipes still on. I'm needing to do a bit of welded right above the psgr side front of the tank (basically just where it hinges to the ledge) and i was wondering if the tank could be loosened and moved at all?!? I'm not under the car right now LOL so cant have a look under and see Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted January 23, 2006 I had some welding done to cover a hole under the rear seat base on my STDT last week & managed it with the tank dropped at the back alone easily. You still need to drop the exhaust off, remove the heat shield & tank strap in Seans picture above. Then undo the two 13mm M8 nuts at the back & the jubilee clip on the filler pipe in the wheel arch & lower it with a trolley jack & piece of wood as little as necessary. Having the tank near empty is wise btw. The Fuel lines don't allow much movement at the front if left connected but the back end can still be dropped a few inches for clearance. Depending on where the welding is & the routing of the brake pipes will be dependant on your car, I protected my brake pipes as they were quite close to the holes & might've suffered from the heat. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Adam Kindness Posted January 23, 2006 the welding is to be done right at the front of the raised rear of the floor... i'll show a pic. Right at the front of the tank Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alastairh 47 Posted January 23, 2006 Remove the tank completely and move the fuel lines to the other side of the car. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted January 23, 2006 Remove the tank completely and move the fuel lines to the other side of the car.I agree the fuel tank will need to be removed completely for that welding but the fuel lines are at the other side of the car already so shouldn't need moving imo. Brake lines on the other hand, one is directly underneath that section iirc (you can see one by the side of the tank in the hole). Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
309PUG 2 1 Cars Posted January 24, 2006 Sean, Unless i've missed something, why arn't you running the lines inside the shell ?? Chris Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smckeown 1 Posted March 11, 2006 because this was gav's road car Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
