Rob Turbo 3 Posted February 19, 2005 I'm gonna attempt a rebuild myself, i'm gonna buy all the usual bearings and seals before i start and hope nothing major is wrong Is there a kit of bearings or do i just order each one seperately? Either way does anyone have the part number(s) to save me searching the parts cd? I've read the guide and i'm fairly confident i can manage, but does anyone have any pointers that would make life easier? Cheers Rob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theo205 0 Posted February 20, 2005 5176 17 Trailing arm shaft 5172 24 Anti roll bar bearing bush 5174 03 Crossmember seal (anti roll bar lever) 5132 49 External bearing 5131 45 Internal bearing 5154 05 Plug 5154 08 Suspension arm seal 5154 09 Cup 5154 10 External seal (suspension arm seal holder) 5153 12 Suspension bar washer 5153 11 Crossmember screw 5153 10 Suspension bar stud 6962 66 Spring washer 6932 38 Hexagonal nut GOD bless Wurzel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wurzel 16 Posted February 20, 2005 The anti roll bar bush, suspension bar washer, crossmember screw, suspension bar stud, spring washer and hexagonal nut may all be reuseable if you're lucky/carefull. They don't cost a lot though in the scheme of things and if you're rebuilding a beam you may as well do it properly, also, there is nothing worse than not having one of the small bits and having to stop the build. One word of warning though, the smaller items like the washer etc may come in packs of tens or more so check first. I'm sort of lucky in the fact I get through a fair amount of beams and so always use them up or the dealer holds them for me charging me for the amount I need at the time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest woods Posted February 20, 2005 Rob Me and Credowan used Nicks guide to the button, and found it spot on TBH. I have now taken about 5 apart, and am getting quicker each time. Mine was FUBAR on my car, so i took the drivers side shaft out to inspect, and the bearing was pretty much gone. The shaft itself was fooked, so it was a sure case of re-furb. I now know the diff between a good shaft and a pooped one. I would reccomend you remove the rear beam totally to do the job, and also allow for poss replacing the mounts too. (about £10 each i think) Use only Pug parts mate, cos for the diff in price, it not worth it. The shafts are only avail from Pug, i believe, and are the most costly part of the build. Following Nick guide will see you right tbh, me and credowan had no probs. (apart from wacking hell outta trailing arms) The shafts themselves cannot be moved from the trailing arm without a press, so you will need to aquire a mates press, or a local friendly garage. Has your car the usual signs of needing a rebuild then mate?? Is also a good time to get under the car and cleanit up, and clean the beam up too. I will be starting next wkd i expect, and will incl a load of pics. I also have the front to lower on mine too. Gaz Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Turbo 3 Posted February 20, 2005 Cheers for the info everyone! Much appriciated My beam has started squeaking when i get out of the car (probably while i'm driving but i cant hear it) and its getting worse! Cheers Rob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wurzel 16 Posted February 20, 2005 Cheers for the info everyone! Much appriciated My beam has started squeaking when i get out of the car (probably while i'm driving but i cant hear it) and its getting worse! Cheers Rob <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Don't confuse that with the rear bake ie handbrake on and the discs/pads creaking. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Turbo 3 Posted February 20, 2005 Good point! I never thought of that, i'll try leaving the handbrake off when i get out and see if it still creaks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Turbo 3 Posted February 20, 2005 Tried it, but it still creaks! Ah well, worth a try! Rob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wurzel 16 Posted February 20, 2005 Always a long shot but deffo worth a try. Never mind, rebuild it is though expect the worse if it's creaking Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Turbo 3 Posted February 20, 2005 Thats what i was thinking, after hearing about apparently good beams being fooked inside! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest cslcraig Posted February 21, 2005 could you let me now on what sort of price for the parts as i need to do mine Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wurzel 16 Posted February 21, 2005 That little list will cost around £170 to £180 for both sides Shafts cost the most at £55 plus VAT each. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Turbo 3 Posted February 21, 2005 I have a cunning plan for replacing the shafts thanks to woods!! Going to order seals etc from pug, then off to the scrappys at the weekend for a bit of a hunt!! Rob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wurzel 16 Posted February 21, 2005 You're lucky your scrappy allows you to split the beams and leave the trash! The ones around my way are adamant that if I take a beam and find it's tits, it doesn't get taken back. If you split any GTi beams, keep hold of the bars and arb lever ends though. That coupled with some of the good tubes (be it from a base model) can easily be made up to a good beam again, just a little more expensive Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Turbo 3 Posted February 21, 2005 I'm mainly going to hunt base model trailing arms, with the shaft, which i can get pressed out by a bloke down the street, also if i find any that have two good nic shafts i'll take the tube too! If i happen to build up a nice collection of good bits i'll let you know, i'm sure you could do with some extra good bits?? Rob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pj838 0 Posted March 12, 2006 Does anyone have the part number (and cost from pug if poss) for the ARB lever arm? The splines in mine are shagged, thnik I'll need a new ARB as well Paul. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 245 3 Cars Posted March 13, 2006 Does anyone have the part number (and cost from pug if poss) for the ARB lever arm? 5178 10 BAR LEVER LEFT - GTI RALLYE 5178 11 BAR LEVER RIGHT - GTI RALLYE No idea about how much they'd be from Peugeot but most likely not cheap. You'll probably be better trying to find a GTi in a scrapyard & get the one for whatever side you need from there or try a wanted ad on here. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pj838 0 Posted March 15, 2006 Thanks for the help . Stripping down my old suspension and the bar lever can be turned on the ARB by hand, bit of corrosion there lol. A Wanted ad sounds like the way forward Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pj838 0 Posted May 14, 2006 OK I now have 3 good ARB levers. Cleaning them up ready for rebuilding, - can someone identify this part (2 shown), it was attached to the bar lever and is some sort of seal/pad..? I'm thinking its either: 5172 24 Anti roll bar bearing bush 5174 03 Crossmember seal (anti roll bar lever) Paul. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wurzel 16 Posted May 14, 2006 5174 03 It's a daft bit of foam that helps seal the lever to the arm. What do the splines look like on the ARB? I have no idea about the history of your beam, but if the wrong lever is placed on the wrong end of the bar, the splines don't mate. It feels as if they are trying to but the lever splines are just slipping over the splined end of the bar. If it's all rusted to feck then so be it, but possibly someone has played with it before and is salvagable. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pj838 0 Posted May 14, 2006 thanks nick - the arb is now my new 'handy metal bar' as the splines on one end are badly corroded. I've just bought a decent one inc. levers that I'll use, good job I left one lever on it though, I'll mark up which side is which now Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wurzel 16 Posted May 14, 2006 I have to admit that out of the couple of beams I've rebuilt, that is the first I've heard of corroded splines. First time for everything though Good luck with the rebuild though. By the way, how much were the end levers or did you get them second hand? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pj838 0 Posted May 14, 2006 Here's the two ends looks a bit dodgy? Got my parts secondhand, didn't ask for the pug price thought it would be painful... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
max0 5 Posted May 14, 2006 not sure if thats dead or not but ive got a standard anti roll bar kicking about from a diesel, your well to have it if needed. Its not as fat as the GTI one but its in good condition. Andy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wurzel 16 Posted May 14, 2006 To me, it looks like the incorrect anti roll bar end has been fitted. I reckon those splines could be cleaned up and a correct end fitted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
