How To Install An Hydralic Handbrake.

[Butler 0]

Noticed a couple of people are interested in this so I'll try to describe it.

 

Based on a 1992 1.9 Gti.

 

First of all the mastercylinder has four outputs. 2 at the front. 2 at the rear. The system was split diagonally. On one side was swapped the pipes around so the rear outputs did the rear brakes and the front, the front brakes.

 

All with me?

 

Then we T'ed the 2 rears into one pipe (This was done in the engine bay, we removed the pipe running to the rear down the nearside). That pipe runs in to the front input on the master cylinder on the handbrake. The exit of the handbrake master cylinder goes to a bias adjuster. The exit of the bias adjuster T's out to 2 again and goes to each rear wheel.

 

We have removed the rear reducing valves on each side. The brake balance is now controlled by the bias adjuster.

 

The parts used are a Pug Sport 306 flyoff lever and 106 master cylinder. Those and bias adjuster were all from shenpar, who are very helpful.

 

Edited March 3, 2004 by Butler

[205man 0]

i thought about doing this one time but then found out that they wont pass an mot apparently, as the handbrake has to be isolacted from the main brake hydraulic system, so that you can use it in case of brake failure

 

so just something people should be aware of if thinking of fitting one

 

alan

[tagy 1]

I thought it would pass an mot if you have a cable as well as the hydraulic system?

[Butler 0]

The lever still uses the cables too. It looks like a standard 306 lever with an added bit welded on to operate the master cylinder and the button mechacnism reversed.

[cybernck 402 1 Cars]

uhm well that's the only way you were able to do it actually, i was

interested in fine details .

 

you could have blanked off one of the master cylinder outputs instead

of merging them (ofcourse, after you've re-arranged the outputs).

 

 

the bias valve is not a necessity, i think the standard brake compensator

would have worked ok, but ofcourse it's better to have the bias valve as

the bias will have changed a bit due to a different arrangement of the

outputs on the m/c etc.

 

which bias valve have you got though? and can you tell me if it's scale

goes from 0-100% (unlikely?) or is it less-sensitive (i.e. 30-70%)?

 

also, why have you chosen to install it behind the handbrake, not in front?

 

 

i thought the m/c needs to be a special "pass-through" one rather than

a normal m/c which requires a fluid reservoir, so what do you mean by

106 one? 106 as in for a 106 rally car or off a normal 106 road car?

 

 

and finally, how much did it all cost (prices per items please)?

 

 

thanks.

[Butler 0]

Easy cybernck, my wife asked less questions....

 

Here goes,

 

It was easier for us to T the rear pipes. Plus I didn't know if blanking was a good idea. I just followed Shenpar, they had done they 205 challenge car like that. Either way is good.

 

I thought bias valve was better because:

I didn't know how reducing the rear to one line would affect the compensators.

Its what the rally cars have.

Something to adjust and play with, especially on a wet Curborough day.

 

Not sure what the scale is. I have set with enough rear brakes to pass the MOT. I haven't had chance to play with it yet.

 

We didn't bring the pipes into the car until at the handbrake so it was just conveniant.

 

The MC is a pass through one (you can see from the pic) from Pug Sport. Designed for a 106 because you can't get the 205 ones anymore. A 106 MC with 306 lever was a hybrid closest to the full 205 setup.

 

Prices are approx from memory:

 

Lever £30

MC £45

Bias valve £50