It Idles Perfectly! :d :d :d

[Ahl 4]

No problem, feel free to donate to the forum if you're feeling kinky.

Then perhaps Cybernck will treat us all to the free ice cream he's been promising for ages...

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=20688

[feb 47]

See this pic here:

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Storm Autos rotated the gear 4 two clicks (teeth) anti-clockwise while the car was idling. The car now idles perfectly from cold compared with before and the idle is not erratic any more. It sits rock steady at 1000rpm. In the past, if i tried dropping it below 1500rpm the car would stall or be very lumpy when cold, i'm really surprised how smooth it is now

Could what they have done affect fueling and is it possible to be running lean now

at high rpm?

Idle CO was around 1.95% but haven't checked emissions on a RR

Thanks,

Edited February 24, 2005 by feb

[fiji bob 0]

yes it changes the air fuel ratio throughout the rev range, i take it they didnt check the fuelling then?

 

from memory i think each click alters the ratio by 1 point ie from 14:1 to 13 or 15:1 either way id say two clicks is too much

Edited February 24, 2005 by fiji bob

[feb 47]

They only checked the emissions when idling. HC were around 220 ppm.

They tweaked this and idle screw only, dont think they checked fuelling

how do you check the fuelling

Is there a way to correct this now (if it runs lean) , i guess i have to turn the gear forward again?

i see the 3D management coming sooner than anticipated now...

[fiji bob 0]

you need to have the car on a rolling road or find a garage with a tuning machine that shows the air fuel ratio

[feb 47]

you need to have the car on a rolling road or find a garage with a  tuning machine that shows the air fuel ratio

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

sorry i was meant to write "how do i adjust fueling". where is the mixture screw? (not the idle one)

as for emissions, i know they put a lambda sensor that measures 02 in the exhaust to see whether the mixture is stoichoimetric or not. - they only checked when the car was idling...

a trip to another RR will only show

Edited February 25, 2005 by feb

[fiji bob 0]

its on the air flow meter but that screw affects idle mainly it also seems to have a smaller effect on progression from idle so its important to have it set properly

[feb 47]

its on the air flow meter but that screw affects idle mainly it also seems to have a smaller effect on progression from idle so its important to have it set properly

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

yes, they played with that screw to set CO to 1.95% -which is good- but I am not sure how it is at high rpm, only a RR will tell.

if my plugs are fine i guess the car is OK. i have no symptoms really (pinking etc), i just got worried from what people told me!

[fiji bob 0]

you rely on the afm working properly and the cog set to the right position for that, it cant be too far out or they wouldnt have been able to set the idle co properly but as you say the only way you will know for sure is having it tested under load

[Richy_Boy 0]

I know what I'm doing tomorrow now... AFM refurb time!

 

Rich

[jim205GTI 3]

same here also going to clean the carb!! anyone got some suggestions for good cleaneing stuff??

[fiji bob 0]

carb cleaner works well

[jim205GTI 3]

ah yes it would do.....if my local motor store had some grrr......but anyway couldn't do the afm cos the black cover wouldn't come off...loooks like it has been glued or had something done to keep it on...but apparently it was a refurbished one anyway according to the label on the box. so ani just cleaned the air filter, the unit and the carb.....looks so much better.....now just the rest of the engine

[dee205 3]

Retracked mine recently. Haven't fitted it yet so can't comment. The track was caked in sh*t. Cleaned it up and undone the screws on the PCB. This allows the PCB to pivot on one screw. So you can move the contact point to a fresh piece.

 

Looks good anyway

 

Edited March 1, 2005 by dee205

[pj838 0]

OK this looks very promising - does anyone have a copy of the guide as the link is down? Just been having a bit play with a spare AFM and I can get the PCB to move by undoing the screws as dee205 says making sure the connectors from the socket are still contacting the right plates:, this means you don't need to touch the 7mm bolt (undid this and can't see how it alters anything...? ) or the contact arm - fingers crossed I'll try the one in my car tomoro - the lid on that one practically fell off in my hand

[Ahl 4]

There's two ways of doing it.

Once you've got the lid off, either unscrew and move the PCB or undo the 7mm bolt, and move the arm up/down along with bending the contacts.

 

Make sure the contacts still touch right along the length of the strip and voila!

 

The PCB on mine was already as far back as it would go so I had to bend the contact.

[Col 0]

wanna do mine again?

[Dan Ingram 1]

i decided to retrac my afm due to my car running like a bag of crap. when i went to do it i found the cap had been siliconed on so it had already messed with and the cog had been adjusted as there were some marks on it, so i scrapped that one and put a 1.9 one on (my cars a 1.6) that i had lying around. the car now runs perfectly, idles at 950rpm spot on apart from a missfire evrey minute or so, and pulls smoothly thru the revs,

 

why is this as i thought the 1.9 and 1.6 afms were different (they have different part nos) so i thought they wouldnt work on the wrong engine.

[Ahl 4]

It will work, just your air/fuel ratio won't be quite right.

[pj838 0]

OK I've just tried doing the AFM in my car. First of all tried undoing the 3 screws.. two of them snapped off at the heads to reveal large amounts of threadlock, so if anyone else is gonna try this, be warned!. So I looked again at moving the contact arm and it was a piece of piss really, undid the 7mm bolt. Then gently levered the arm mechanism vertically upwards on the spindle, pushed/bent the copper arms down so there was a firm contact, the track is now displaced less than 1mm from original marks. Just checked the range was ok as before and retightened the bolt. (also cleaned the track)

 

The idling was steady at 750 sat in the garage evened out pretty well after blipping the throttle no stalling, I come back from a 5min drive up the dual carriageway and its now steady at 1000 so you never know... I'll see what its like after a week thanks for the advice guys

[Guest rowbertoe]

I had to drill out the head on one of the PCB screws, after i did it it ran pretty badly - fuelling seemed to be intermittent - ive put this down to me accidently moving the dial a notch or so or also the contacts not touching properly - need to have another go as my 1.6 aint running great at the mo

[Gentrix 2 1 Cars]

OK I've just tried doing the AFM in my car. First of all tried undoing the 3 screws.. two of them snapped off at the heads   

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

The screws on mine did snap off too.

I have no idea, what to do on this screws. Should I drill them out with a dremel tool? or just fix the plate with glue or perhaps use tin solder?

[KRISKARRERA 2 1 Cars]

Surely you can do a basic test of an afm using a multimeter whilst moving the flap??

 

What would be good is to have a dyno and run the car with the spring at different tensions to see which gives best power.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Surely you can do a basic test of an afm using a multimeter whilst moving the flap??

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

You can & this is outlined in the link on the first page (when its working) & also in the Haynes manual, whether they mention the same figures or results I can't remember though.

 

The results from measuring the resistance etc though doesn't change afaik if the spring has been reset or adjusted at all & iirc the refurb link went further into the AFM refurb than that.

 

Graham.

[KRISKARRERA 2 1 Cars]

I imagine the spring would lose tension over the years and if anything make the mixture richer.... yet I often hear that standard Mi16s run lean at the top end. Maybe they don't lose tension at all.