Starter click

[Rob_the_Sparky 10]

May be a number of things causing the lack of a good low impedance power to the starter solenoid.  In may case it was somewhere after the immobiliser (stockish 8v) but I never dug any further, just added a wire from the point where I knew it was good to the starter solenoid (in parallel with the original) and that solved it.  A local relay would also do the trick but both are bypassing the root cause.  That may be the more reliable fix though!

[petert 601]

Also keep in mind that a hot relay will also fail. I once fitted one under an Mi16 inlet manifold. Fine when cold, but failed when hot. My favourite spot for a 405 is the black box over near the engine mount.

[Gohn 69]

peter, bout to setup the extra relay

away from heat etc,

but questions first to see if I'm goin in the right direction

 

relay

got a bunch of OE spare ones from a 205 fuseboard,

4 terminals all in the right configuration and same terminal numbers 

different colours but the olive/white ones look correct ?

 

wire

do I need something thicker for the 30 and 87 terminals ?

or same guage as OE ignition power wire ?

 

what about bracket etc to fix the relay to the slam panel ? 

 

 

 

[petert 601]

Any of those will do. I would have used one with a mounting tab. Your alternative is to buy a mounting block, like this one from Repco.

 

Same size wire will be fine.

[Tom Fenton 1,548]

The standard loom uses the starter signal wire as an earth route for the SAD (cold idle valve). If you bypass the standard wiring you will lose this earth and the idle will take a long time to come down. Easy enough to tie the end of the bypassed wire down to earth with a ring terminal.

[Gohn 69]

good tip thanks tom

mines a SAD-less (happy) diesel now though so luckily avoiding that issue

 

raided the spares,

got a mauve relay case with a screw hole connection tab (from the rear wiper relay)

and a green plug with all the wires ready to go (from a 405 in a paddock )

 

the thin white wire is the +12V from battery line

not sure how to install the fuse in it but I'm over to the store to see what they have

 

[Gohn 69]

hey dunno if I need to install a fuse or not ? 

 

A. between the battery and the relay ?

OR

B. between the relay and the starter solenoid ?

 

 

if yes, what amp is it ?

[petert 601]

No fuse.

[Bremar 6]

That is a 5 pin switching relay. You really want a 4 pin relay (even though the green plug has 4 wires.The way you will wire  it will probably mean the spade connector corresponding to no. 87a is  live until you operate the relay when it flips to 87 live. (I’m fairly sure the wiper relay has 2 outputs, 87 and 87a because the wipers operate at 2 speeds) It can be used but it’s not right. 
the wire connection to 30 will be the  wire you put a fuse on to feed the solenoid. The fuse is always there to protect the wiring and so should be as close to the source of power as convenient. 
A mounting tab is desirable but not necessary. Just use a cable tie if  the relay doesn’t have a mounting tab. 
Bremar 

[Bremar 6]

If you want a fuse 

[Gohn 69]

thanks

 

bewdy, no fuse then

 

2 hours ago, Bremar said:

That is a 5 pin switching relay. You really want a 4 pin relay (even though the green plug has 4 wires.The way you will wire  it will probably mean the spade connector corresponding to no. 87a is  live until you operate the relay when it flips to 87 live. (I’m fairly sure the wiper relay has 2 outputs, 87 and 87a because the wipers operate at 2 speeds) It can be used but it’s not right.

think there's a misunderstanding

I took the olive 4 pin relay, took the olive case off and put the pink case on because it has the mounting tab, the relay guts stay the same

 

try it all tomorrow