Standard top mount in combination with mild camber

[Arthur 12]

Gents, again your opinion would be appreciated. 

 

Recently I mounted my front suspension design. Discussed in other treats, but in short; custom arms, 206 hubs with mild roll center correction, (shortened) 206 axles with 33mm inner c.v.'s and 6ball outers (BE4r) 

 

I still have the standard top mount of the struts with Bilstein B4's and Eiback springs. 

 

Before the chance I had no problems with noisy top mounts, but now I have. Camber is set at 2°, and caster is about 10mm more then standard. I went on this forum as my goto source of info and found out I forgot the 2 washers in the strut assembly. The famous ones not in the exploded views of most sources. Nevertheless I never noticed this. I now mounted them as I kept them. Now the struts are less noisy, but still a bit noisy. And still the top cup washer is not flush with the assembly. Now some say this should be flush, some say it's normal to have clearance. with or without my forgotten washers, I have clearance. 

 

One would say all other changes might cause it but I've triple check the arms and their rubbers and everything. 

 

Can a change to about 2° camber cause the top mount to get a bit noisy because they are just wrangled and tormented a bit more now?

Would it help when I somehow make sure the cup washer is flush with the top mount plate (by including a nylon bush orso) 

Should I look for better top mounts / bearings with 2° camber? 

 

BTW; my changes to geometry, if any, with this 206 parts feel like they met their goals. I still have no need for power steering and feel no bump steer effects whatsoever. Is does a bit still, it's not a plank, but roll angle seem to be perfect for the camber and caster I have now. (standard arb front and 24mm (106)) at the back. 

 

 

Edited August 23 by Arthur

[petert 588]

Maybe some matching tapered washers would help? I realise they'll only be in the ideal position at one steering angle, but has to be better than nothing.

 

You say 10mm of caster. Have you measured that in degrees? I suspect that's only approx. 1mm more than std but better than nothing. Mine are laid back approx. 30mm at the top and pushed forward down the bottom another 20mm (wheel touched apron when turning) , which yielded approx. 5º.

[wicked 103 3 Cars]

Did you replace the top mount rubbers? Is the top cup not bent up? It happens sometimes. 

 

Why are you still using Bilstein B4's while doing changes to geometry? Imho B6's would be the better choice...

[Arthur 12]

No, didn’t replace the rubbers. Cup seems fine. B4’s or just a few years old…

[PhilNW 44]

Is this with the strut on or off the car?

 

Have you tried it off the car (without the camber) to find out which bit does not fit ?

 

How are you measuring castor?

Edited August 24 by PhilNW

[Arthur 12]

Off the car not much noise. All bits fit, I just have relatively a lot of clearance at the cup washer. Caster was measured with the subframe off. Joints are about 10mm more forward then standard. Not too extreme. Maybe it is something else. 

pic at full lock

 

 

 

[welshpug 1,657]

something very wrong there, possibly the difference in strut inclination from using the 206 hubs, but the rubber donut looks to be worn out there, they collapse with age.

[petert 588]

Looks like you need new rubbers. Get the Group N spec. from Pug1off etc.

[Arthur 12]

Hi all

 

Waiting on group N rubbers now. Old ones do look quite bad. Am i the only one though who wonders about his assembly being rather odd? 

 

Think about it. 

 

If 6 is supposed to be flush, and the inclination changes, then what gives way? Is 6 supposed to be flush yet moving on 5?, because if not something's got to bend. The rubber will bend Obviously, but the 6 is still attached to the damper rod. So that must be flexible as well. 

 

But if 6 isn't supposed to be flush, what keep the whole thing from dropping when one should hit a pothole? 

 

 

Edited September 10 by Arthur