mmt 15 Posted August 7 Hi Guys, my track only 205 needs better/different grip. I run 280 lbs/inc springs and 21 mm tb’s. Full Yokohama slicks. it turns in allright but exit is not good. I can’t get on the accelerator out of corners. would stiffer springs in the front help? thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 588 Posted August 7 (edited) Seems a tad under sprung for slicks. Should be more like 500 and 23mm & 25mm ARB min on the rear. What diff though? Edited August 7 by petert Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmt 15 Posted August 7 10 minutes ago, petert said: Seems a tad under sprung for slicks. Should be more like 500 and 23mm & 25mm ARB min on the rear. What diff though? Thanks. Plate diff. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 588 Posted August 7 Which one? How is it setup? What tyre pressure hot? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmt 15 Posted August 7 Kaaz diff, don’t know the ramp angles though. What would you recommend ? pressure between 30-34 psi after 20 min race. thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 588 Posted August 7 I'm not familiar with a Kaaz, but I'd still make it come on hard and fast. I'd suggest your issue is tyres. Max pressure should be 29 hot. ie start off at 19-20 front and 24-25 rear. Does it feel better early on, then deteriorate? What camber & caster? Are you still running a front ARB? I don't run one anymore. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhilNW 44 Posted August 8 16 hours ago, mmt said: I can’t get on the accelerator out of corners. What do you mean by this? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmt 15 Posted August 8 Still run the arb. I’ll try to disconnect it to see if it makes any difference and add some stiffer springs. Don’ t have the exact camber/caster angles. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmt 15 Posted August 8 5 hours ago, PhilNW said: What do you mean by this? Can’t hit the accelerator before the car points straight. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmt 15 Posted August 8 2 hours ago, welshpug said: What rear arb? Std. Gti Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted August 8 That's Why it has no inside front grip then, too much rear weight transfer, so you either need to try something like a 24mm arb or larger torsion bars and disconnect the front Arb. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 588 Posted August 8 (edited) Spoox sell a 28.5 "Time Attack" rear ARB. That's probably the easiest change, although expensive! I'd change the rear ARB and torsion bars before changing the front springs. Edited August 8 by petert Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmt 15 Posted August 9 Thanks for your insights guys. Really appreciated. Not a Big fan of expensive ;-) I’ll fiddle with it before next race weekend. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,542 Posted August 9 Its possible to shorten a 306 GTI6 24mm rear arb to 205 width, makes for a cheap uprated rear arb. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmt 15 Posted August 9 4 hours ago, Tom Fenton said: Its possible to shorten a 306 GTI6 24mm rear arb to 205 width, makes for a cheap uprated rear arb. Shorten by angle grinder? Or machining? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmt 15 Posted August 9 4 hours ago, Tom Fenton said: Its possible to shorten a 306 GTI6 24mm rear arb to 205 width, makes for a cheap uprated rear arb. Shorten by angle grinder? Or machining? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmt 15 Posted August 9 (edited) Done a bit of a search on the 306 arb. Can anyone confirm what I need to source. The arb and two 306 end plates. take out the original arb and end plates. Cut one end of the 306 arb which one?!? weld the Cut end to a 306 end plate and put it on the car. will the 306 end plates be a direct fit on the original beam ? anyone have any pictures of the Cut and welded arb? Thanks. Edited August 9 by mmt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 588 Posted August 9 (edited) You can cut & weld or respline. The bar is quite hard, so the machinist won’t like you. If welding, it doesn’t matter which end you cut off. The sub-assembly just needs to be the same as 205 width. You need to pre and post heat, otherwise weld may crack. Ideally you’d turn down the bar so it’s splineless. Then you can weld inside and outside. Edited August 9 by petert Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmt 15 Posted August 10 Great pointers Peter. Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmt 15 Posted August 10 Will the 306 end plates fit directly or do I need modifications? thanks again Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SRDT 180 Posted August 10 You just need the corresponding plastic bushings/seals: 5179-10 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 588 Posted August 10 5 hours ago, mmt said: Will the 306 end plates fit directly or do I need modifications? thanks again Direct fit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmt 15 Posted August 10 16 minutes ago, petert said: Direct fit. Thanks. Hunt for a gti6 arb has begun. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmt 15 Posted August 11 (edited) Pug1off and Spooks stocks different sizes arb. They claim that the material are better than oem? anyone have any experience with their arb’s? which size should I go for? Is bigger better? Or should I go for 24 mm thanks again Edited August 11 by mmt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
