1.9 DKZ Head pitting advice

[Davetouch 3]

Hi, rebuilding a 1.9; engine came from a scrapper so unknown miles. Hence stripped down and had the head rebuilt properly but hadn't noticed this pitting until after the shop gave it back. He said its fine as it is outside of the flame rings (which is true, made a check myself) but it looks awfully deep to me. Should I take it back to the shop to weld it and reskim, or should I fill it with RTV or should I just send it as is? No other spots at all on the head its perfectly clean otherwise.

 

Additionally, block had -0.05mm taken off and head a skim, would this warrant a thicker than normal head gasket or am I right in thinking a standard thickness should be fine? 

 

Just a sanity check for myself as this is my first engine rebuild! Getting excited to start putting it back together now.

 

 

[DamirGTI 342]

Wash off with brake cleaner or Acetone and fill up pitted areas with epoxy metal , pick some high temp. product .

 

Personally i'd go for thinner 1.3mm head gasket .

 

D

 

 

[petert 586]

If there's enough height left, I'd mill it down further and enjoy the extra compression. You can take up to 2mm off a virgin head.

[SRDT 175]

The DKZ head is pretty common, did you get a lot of work done on this head aside for the skim?

You need to check if the head gasket can also seal around the headbolt hole, if you're not 100% sure try some Loctite 5923.

[welshpug 1,657]

10 hours ago, SRDT said:

The DKZ head is pretty common.

 

In your country maybe, not so much here.

 

Regardless,  there's nothing wrong with that head and it would be wasting time and materials doing anything to it, it wont affect how it works one bit.

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Listen to your machine shop man, he knows what he is talking about.

[petert 586]

3 hours ago, welshpug said:

 

In your country maybe, not so much here.

 

The DKZ casting 0200F2, is the same as any other later XU5/XU9 with the larger diameter, 108mm long valves. The difference is the camshaft. In Australia, BDY XU5M engines are regularly used to save DKZ cars. Not only are the heads identical, but more importantly, the BDY blocks suffer far less from liner seat corrosion.

Edited March 7 by petert

[petert 586]

The only issue with my suggestion of heavily skimming the head, is that you will need to correct the camshaft timing, as it will be retarded after skimming.  Additionally, a hole in the engine mount will need elongating the same amount as the skim, as the head and block will now be closer together.

[SRDT 175]

XU52C, XU9M, XU5JP and XU7JP engines also have this head.

You can look for any fuel injected 1.6 or 1.8 XU 8v as long as you stay away from the XU5J and the XU7JB.

[welshpug 1,657]

misread it as DFZ,   but still, there's nothing wrong there, slap it on and torque it up.

[Davetouch 3]

Thanks for the advice all, I think I'll save the expense and complications of having to adjust timing etc, and just send it as is (with some sealant). Not looking to spend a tonne on this engine (and not after huge performance either). This head I had the valve seats and stem seals and exhaust guides done so its had enough to not want to start again with another head.

 

Also, over here in Sweden these things are super rare, most people here just play with old Volvos instead of pugs

Edited March 19 by Davetouch

[welshpug 1,657]

Dont waste sealant, it doesn't need it.

[petert 586]

If you must use sealant, use ThreeBond 1211. It's great on head gaskets:

https://www.sparkplugsdirect.com.au/products/m-cycle-sealant#specifications