205 T16 replica build

[Arthur 12]

How are you going to solve having two times 4:1 ish final drives? In the audi box is something 4:1-ish I assume and in the subaru diff another. Your finl rive will be somewhere between 16:1 and 25:1 and your top speed will be about 50 to 70 km/h.

 

I'm been thinking of doing something like this myself but I can't get past step 1. (winning the lotery) 

Edited November 4, 2023 by Arthur

[Berglundracing 26]

Starting camberplate assembly. 

Have also narrowed the lower wischbone to get aligned with the rear.

 

I wonder what difference it would be with my Mcpherson-Öhlins setup compared to OEM- dubble A-arm ?

[Berglundracing 26]

On 11/4/2023 at 1:35 PM, Arthur said:

How are you going to solve having two times 4:1 ish final drives? In the audi box is something 4:1-ish I assume and in the subaru diff another. Your finl rive will be somewhere between 16:1 and 25:1 and your top speed will be about 50 to 70 km/h.

 

I'm been thinking of doing something like this myself but I can't get past step 1. (winning the lotery) 

I have abanded the subarudiff for the syncro instead. Its 20/21, almost 1:1

[petert 586]

13 hours ago, Berglundracing said:

Starting camberplate assembly. 

Have also narrowed the lower wischbone to get aligned with the rear.

 

I wonder what difference it would be with my Mcpherson-Öhlins setup compared to OEM- dubble A-arm ?

 

All I can see in camber adjustment, and not much of it. How will you adjust caster? You need to get it to at least +4º, and that in itself, induces camber on turn-in.

Edited November 9, 2023 by petert

[Arthur 12]

10 hours ago, Berglundracing said:

I have abanded the subarudiff for the syncro instead. Its 20/21, almost 1:1

Ah, oké. Better make the drive driveshaft to rear diff very strong then. This will have to cope with 4  to 6 kNm. 

[Berglundracing 26]

13 hours ago, petert said:

All I can see in camber adjustment, and not much of it. How will you adjust caster? You need to get it to at least +4º, and that in itself, induces camber on turn-in.

I have only camber adjustment. I have set caster to +7. The Öhlins suspension is very wide in top and it was not supposed be mountet in the wrx with adjustment due to regulation in GroupN.

What do you men with ”and that in itself, induces camber on turn-in.”?

[Berglundracing 26]

13 hours ago, Arthur said:

Ah, oké. Better make the drive driveshaft to rear diff very strong then. This will have to cope with 4  to 6 kNm. 

I’m thinking of a hardyplate between the gearbox and diff. Solid mount on gearbox and diff. I’ll take  some pictures tomorrow. Another thought is using CV joint. The rear diff is mounted aprox 20cm from gearbox

[petert 586]

1 hour ago, Berglundracing said:

I have only camber adjustment. I have set caster to +7. The Öhlins suspension is very wide in top and it was not supposed be mountet in the wrx with adjustment due to regulation in GroupN.

What do you men with ”and that in itself, induces camber on turn-in.”?

+7!, don't forget you'll need an oil cooler on the PAS with that much, as you're effectively using the PAS ram as a jack. Look at an old Benz, they have lots of caster. When the wheel turns in, the camber increases. Thus you may only need -2 camber with that much caster.

[Arthur 12]

12 hours ago, Berglundracing said:

”and that in itself, induces camber on turn-in.”?

Maybe a bit hard to explain. Imagine extremes. Let's say you set caster at 45° and no camber at all. Then imagine steering 45°. You will have 22,5° camber at 45° of steering. Be sure to buff your power steering or hours in the gym though. 

 

[Berglundracing 26]

Thanks, have actually noticed this fenomenon an wondered if it was supposed to be like that?!

I have tryed to keep the standard camber an caster as the doner car have, Subaru Impreza GT in the rear but went for 6-7 caster in front from a info websight that had specified a 4WD rallycar. It is not that heavy anymore in the front like the subaru with a engine hanging over the powerstering. Cooling is anyway probably good. It will be stable in 200km/h WRC-stages :-)

 

The suspension tower is now welded but looks a littlebit werd? I will attache it with the rollcage and to the frontframe as well and a removeble pipe between the tower also.

 

After some thinking I think it will be easyest to have 2 cv joints between the reardiff and gearbox and not mount them solid.

[Berglundracing 26]

[Arthur 12]

Well, that would need to be some strong C.V. joints then. 

[petert 586]

WRX/STi are +6.5.

[Berglundracing 26]

10 hours ago, Arthur said:

Well, that would need to be some strong C.V. joints then. 

Sorry, I mean a setup like this…..

[Berglundracing 26]

8 hours ago, petert said:

WRX/STi are +6.5.

Thanx…….

[Arthur 12]

On 11/13/2023 at 9:25 PM, Berglundracing said:

Sorry, I mean a setup like this…..

 

 

Aha. Well, that might be strong, but the middle part will have an angular velocity sinus different to the rest.  It might case problems as well. Especially with high angels. CV actually stand for "constant velocity" and that's used for good reason. 

[Berglundracing 26]

On 11/15/2023 at 10:47 AM, Arthur said:

 

 

Aha. Well, that might be strong, but the middle part will have an angular velocity sinus different to the rest.  It might case problems as well. Especially with high angels. CV actually stand for "constant velocity" and that's used for good reason. 

I probably have to move the engine and diff closer together in line. This will give me different length on driveshafts and more engineweight transfered to the passengerside, like the original:-)

[Berglundracing 26]

Its not fun to do one thing, twise….

but now the front suspension towers are done and with a supportbar. This bar will probably later be adjustable.

Not that easy to have all mesurment exact the same with the car on wheels and not in a rigg.

Next week the towers will be connected  to rolecage and lower frame.

[Berglundracing 26]

Working on a airfilterbox

[Spesh 31 1 Cars]

Keep the updates coming, I'm enjoying this

[Berglundracing 26]

Some progress today. I’m not sure if its possible to go any further. I need the fenders, front and hood to not do any negative construction.

I’m planning a roadtrip to Turin, Ricambituning. A rallyparts manufacturer witch produce T16 bodykit  next summer. I’m building a pickup 307 to be able to pick up all parts. Not sure if I’ve must cut the rear bonnet to load all part?

This is the cheapest I have found?

Any thoughts?

[Berglundracing 26]

Connected rollcage to the suspensiontowers today. Next is closing the lower frame to the chassi and mount pedals in the best position?

I have to short the airfilter, Its a tractor filter:-)

[Berglundracing 26]

Now is the pedals and former firewall done. Took a while to find the right angle. Its from a subaru impreza.

I have also begun to build the removeble floor to be able to access the front final drive.

[X-mo 20 2 Cars]

Sick project....enjoining every update on this.

Keep going

[Berglundracing 26]

On 12/12/2023 at 11:21 AM, X-mo said:

Sick project....enjoining every update on this.

Keep going

Thanks! 
I’m also enjoining every part of this build. At this point I could sit in a almost identic T16 and dream of taking on some WRC stages in the Swedish forrest. Not the Collins crest though, the car would tipp over :-)

This build will not be a abanded, pore planned ore ”over my head project” .

My goal is to attend in Swedens biggest motorshow 2025…..cross my fingers :-)