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Berglundracing

205 T16 replica build

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Berglundracing

Do you mean its possible to get the boost gauge in some way?

A VDO Tachometer could probably pass as OEM

 

Daschboard would be nice to replicate though its not so complucated as all other stuff

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SRDT
Berglundracing

Is it a variable airintake? Looks like its a slidevalve under the ”tubeshaped  intake”?

4EB6C3BB-DAB8-4FCE-BD21-88532E5CC370.png

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Berglundracing
SRDT
37 minutes ago, Berglundracing said:

Is it a variable airintake? Looks like its a slidevalve under the ”tubeshaped  intake”?

Yes, the real ITB are stuck to the head and the other valves are for variable length:

inlet_1.jpg?1514510012

http://www.stavtech.co.uk/home/this-strange-looking-inlet-manifold-has-won-pikes-peak-and-a-whole-lot-of-rallycross-events

 

Peugeot later used a similar system on the XU10J4 engine.

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Berglundracing

That one will be hard to replicate,

I will be stuck with long intakepipe
 then.........Low end power is not so bad

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Berglundracing

Found  a used turbopressuregauge on eBay.

Im not sure this direction of this build was what I first planned?

If I start collecting oem -parts it feels  wrong not to build a rollcage true copy, not the the modern style with more protektion and FIA legal?

I found a old 205T16 build on sportpug.com I liked and was planing  to copy.
 

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F1073607-3329-4BD0-BF98-959A5D283E81.jpeg

62ED7DB9-571D-4709-8CCF-445FDDCD5FF9.jpeg

Edited by Berglundracing

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Berglundracing

Finaly i have had some time to work on the projekt. Have waited for the bracket? between gearbox and rear diff….. If parts are for free I could wait. Waiting now for the otherside and I have to buy a another rear diff to the frontwheels.

My Goal in short term is to have a rolling car.

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Berglundracing

Finalt the is the rear finished.

Now I have to find some Impreza wheels that is close to 205 T16 design.

Later I Will change to Rally coilovers and adjustable links.

2427BF08-EB6D-4776-837E-4FE0EFA97EA3.jpeg

F33D82E6-880C-419A-BDC0-601C99BEEA53.jpeg

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Berglundracing

Finaly the rear is finished.

Now I have to find some Impreza wheels that is close to 205 T16 design.

Later I Will change to Rally coilovers and adjustable links.

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Berglundracing

These will be ok for now, 160£

66584DBE-5C9D-4083-9766-4D0FCCE998DD.jpeg

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wicked

For the final build I would opt for some white OZ or Speedline rally rims. Must be plenty of them available in Sweden... 

 

Nice progress on the build! Does steel frame run completely to front of the car? What front end diff do you intend to use?

 

 

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Berglundracing
On 2/13/2023 at 1:24 PM, wicked said:

For the final build I would opt for some white OZ or Speedline rally rims. Must be plenty of them available in Sweden... 

 

Nice progress on the build! Does steel frame run completely to front of the car? What front end diff do you intend to use?

 

 

I´m searching for real rally wheels and have some options. Lot of rally drivers in sweden:-)

Steel frame runs all the way under the car and i will attache the front suspension to it also.

Had som setback unfortunally with the diff........

I´m a newbee and didnt figure it would bee 12-16:1 in gear range and the car would go like a kids-car, very slow.

I have ordered diff from VW Syncro with almost 1:1 (20:21) and hope it will not do a big impact on my fabrication this far. I´m glad I only have done the rear,,,,,,

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Berglundracing

I will start with frontsuspension as soon as the new syncro diff arrives.

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SRDT
On 8/26/2022 at 11:38 PM, Berglundracing said:

That one will be hard to replicate,

I will be stuck with long intakepipe
 then.........Low end power is not so bad

It seems that this variable intake was in fact never used in Gr.B, the surviving Evo2 with it was a test mule.

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Berglundracing

I have been working on the rear and have found Öhlins a subaru Impreza suspensin from group N rallycar. So far the most exspensive part on this build.

i’m very satisfied with the tubebending on the main rollcage. My homemade tubebender is not so precise and have no scales so i just have to wing it(?).

I use 45/3mm tubes and it will be very strong, and heavy……

I have found 2 golf syncro reardiff, the same as the Golf rally G60 uses. They are freerolling when you use the abs on the Golf and I have removed this funktion and now it work the way I want, always in drivemode. This is probably the week part in the drivetrain. Maximum 300-350hp? Also fitted adjustable controllarms an next step is to weld the brakets in right position to have right camber and caster angles.

 

 

 

 

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Spesh
On 2/17/2023 at 7:52 AM, Berglundracing said:

I´m searching for real rally wheels and have some options. Lot of rally drivers in sweden:-)

Steel frame runs all the way under the car and i will attache the front suspension to it also.

Had som setback unfortunally with the diff........

I´m a newbee and didnt figure it would bee 12-16:1 in gear range and the car would go like a kids-car, very slow.

I have ordered diff from VW Syncro with almost 1:1 (20:21) and hope it will not do a big impact on my fabrication this far. I´m glad I only have done the rear,,,,,,

Are the syncro diffs haldex?  I know the R32 rear diffs are about 1.4:1 and are haldex, but are practically bombproof and can hold 1500nm without much issue but you'd have the haldex clutches to deal with

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SRDT

No Haldex at the time, it's a viscous coupling unit. The whole setup is a bit basic yet effective for a car like the Golf Syncro or even the Passat g60 syncro.

 

The Golf and Passat had related platforms so using the Passat drivetrain VW could make the Golf Rallye Gr.A homologation special on the cheap.

But just like the "cheap" Gr.B a few years earlier there is simply no way to win against top notch cars like the Lancia Delta.

 

The only reason to use that diff on the replica is the 21:20 final drive.

volkswagen-golf-2-syncro_xx.jpg

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Berglundracing

I have removed the viscos part and cut it in 2 pieces so I could use the splines and build brackets to be able to attache the diff directly to the driveshafts. It will give me 100% drive all the time, not like its supposed to work, only drive when the front tyres are spinning. I have also locked it in  drive and removed the pneumatic system that engage the drive when brakes are not used. Ill take som pictures tomorrow

 

 

 

 

Edited by Berglundracing
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Spesh
On 9/24/2023 at 9:32 PM, Berglundracing said:

I have removed the viscos part and cut it in 2 pieces so I could use the splines and build brackets to be able to attache the diff directly to the driveshafts. It will give me 100% drive all the time, not like its supposed to work, only drive when the front tyres are spinning. I have also locked it in  drive and removed the pneumatic system that engage the drive when brakes are not used. Ill take som pictures tomorrow

 

  

 

 

I'd be interested to see the pictures of the inside of one so that would be great.

 

If you wanted to go to a simple viscous system on one of the axles you could use a freelander viscous coupling unit in one of the propshafts like the honda lot do when converting civics to 4wd, super simple way to implement it if needed.

 

 

What are you going to do about differentials as you've now got 3 open diffs in there?

 

 

Thanks for sharing so far, its super interesting :)

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Berglundracing

This picture show the parts i have cut out from the viscous-system. I have cut the axle with splines in half so i could use it on two rear diff. I only had one viscous system. These 2 parts will be welded to brackets attached to the driveshafts to the front diff. The rear diff will be very close to the gearbox and i will probably use a Hardy-plate? I will be a bit of a struggle to lineup the diff with gearbox and not build in forces that ruin the gearbox.

I take some pictures of cutup viscous to morrow

IMG_8236.jpeg

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Berglundracing

I have been recomended to only have the rear closed and front and middle open. Sellholm.se……..racing suspension and gearbox company.

I dont know how i will close the rear diff at this point?

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SRDT

You can probably find a Torsen diff for the 01E gearbox, to link it with the rear diff in a non rigid way you could use a giubo.

As for closed diff maybe they mean welded. There is LSD conversion kits that could be used, it's far from a real LSD but better than nothing. The diff gears are probably from another VW gearbox so you may not even need a custom kit.

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Spesh

There are plated diff's available for the syncro rears, rather expensive however.

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Berglundracing

Thanks for all info.
Speach, This plated diffs, do you have any more info? Cant find any info at all aboat syncro rear diff upgrades….

I have a contacted a former G60 rallydriver in Sweden who might have some info.

 

If l weld it, on tarmac will the car push it self out of corners (trackdays, time attack)?

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