1.6 BE3 removal & clutch change

[lagonda 42]

Another typically 'orrible job on my CTi. At least completed successfully ... I thought I'd make some observations on the procedure. I used the Haynes joke book as a guide.

 

The starter was so diificult to access that I thought it better to remove the inlet manifold for better access. This gave me the opportunity to clean that thoroughly, and more importantly, to service the starter. I last saw the starter in 2006 when I rebuilt the engine. Back then, I completely dismantled the starter to clean and overhaul it. I was disappointed to find, on removing it, that the starter now looked like something that had been buried in a field for a few years! I cleaned it up, and oiled the bearings at both ends.

 

I don't see the point of removing the "right-hand rear engine mounting link", especially as they later say temporarly refit it to aid removing the gearbox. Perhaps loosen the mounting bolts for it.

 

Turning the steering to aid driveshaft withdrawal certainly helps, but it was still difficult, especially with the OS one. Try different positions of the steering, including the opposite to Haynes.

 

I spent HOURS attempting to refit the speedo cable, not helped by not having the correct O ring to replace one of the originals that had broken. Eventually, I removed the plastic bodied speedo gear assembly, which is very easy to remove (just one bolt fixing) and refit. Refitting the cable to that was then quick and easy, as was fitting the gear and cable back to the gearbox.

 

The battery tray mounting bolts; top ones; easy; lower ones, hidden, very difficult to access. Very tight too! But with the right socket and extension got them out OK. As these go into an open chassis box section I expected rusted up threads ... and was surprised to find they had been liberally greased by some conscientious mechanic many years ago. Make sure these are similarly well greased when refitting.

 

Haynes then goes on to say use a hoist to support the engine, and a jack to remove the gearbox. No, no, no! As that was what they said, I tried, and it didn't work ... at least, not for me. Primarily, it doesn't make sense. If using a trolley jack under the gearbox, where do you position it? If you get your estimate of the centre of gravity wrong, it will be even more difficult. Anyway, how do you stop the gearbox falling off the jack? Additionally, movement of the engine itself is pretty much limited to up - down. So ... I used the trolley jack under the NS end of the sump, and engaged the hook of the engine crane in one of the cast in loops (why do you think those are there, Mr Haynes?!) on the bellhousing. Needless to say, disengaging the gearbox assembly was a struggle, but was made far easier by the weight being taken by the crane. A hint is to watch carefully once the gearbox starts to separate. What you are looking for is an even gap all round, between the bellhousing and its mating flange on the engine. Adjust the crane height to achieve that. Once there, you can then be sure that the gearbox input shaft is parallel with the clutch splines and flywheel spigot bearing, thus ensuring the best position for separation. Once you are sure this gap is the same all round, you can use levers to aid separation, ideally in alignment with the input shaft.

 

Once separated, lowering the gearbox was easy.I managed to bend one of the gearbox control rods, one of which, for ease of dismantling, I'd left connected to the gearbox, on the way down ... so keep an eye on that if you've done the same.

 

My clutch had been slipping for several months, and the clutch disc was indeed found to be down to the rivets. Fortunately, no damage to the flywheel.

 

I used a socket extension with tape wound round to ensure close fitting, to centralise the new clutch.

 

The clutch release bearing is rather poorly held in place by plastic clips. Although these clips are quite firm, it is still very easy for the clips to disengage as you struggle to get the input shaft back into the clutch and spigot bearing. Haynes gives no guide, but I lightly oiled the spigot bearing, and LIGHTLY greased the clutch splines. This aids getting things together and smooth operation later. Careful not to overgrease as the excess will only get flung off where you don't want it ... on the clutch lining. Ensure the clutch operating lever is set with the release bearing right back, and take care not to move or jar the lever as you refit the gearbox ... that will ensure the release bearing doesn't self-disengage. If it does, and you don't notice, the clutch won't work and you'll have to do the whole lovely job all over again. There are two cast-in loops for lifting, on the top of the bell housing. Typically Peugeot, neither is in the ideal position for lifting the gearbox so that it rises in the ideal orientation. I struggled and made do, but you could consider winding some very stout wire between the two lugs, and lifting from the wire ... you can then adjust the position of the crane hook to obtain best orientation.

 

Don't forget to reconnect the reverse light switch cable! I did, so had to waste time dismantling to get access. Incidentally, I gunked the gearbox thoroughly, and found the terminal pins for this switch heavily corroded. So, take care to clean these, and the plug terminals, before reassembly. Otherwise, it's unlikely the reverse light will work. Worth lightly greasing these terminals once cleaned.

 

Most of the gearbox to engine bolts are difficult to access, so difficult to retighten once in service. So tighten fully and leave overnight at least. Then retighten.

 

Refilling the gearbox ... ignore Haynes. Whilst you have access, unscrew the plastic breather from the top of the gearbox, insert funnel, and easily fill with oil. Of course, you'll still need to have the level plug removed ... once oil starts emerging from there, screw the plug back in, job done. Ideally, with the car level front to rear and side to side.

 

I can now overtake people once more!

 

 

 

 

[lagonda 42]

Additionally:

 

The clutch release fork assembly is a classic Peugeot economy at all costs job. The operating lever is held by a splined pin, threaded with a nut. Perhaps when new or for a few days afterwards, one could screw in the nut and pull out the pin. Now, these are universally rusted in place. The shaft bearings, unbelievably, are plastic, which of course starts to melt before you have heated the lever enough to free the rust. Due to time constraint, I had to give up on this. The bottom end of the shaft was very rusty, but al least you can lift it sufficiently to aid cleaning and gunking. I worked grease into both bearings by smearing and pushing grease inwith a finger. To be fair, although the plastic bushes were worn, they're not sufficiently so to cause issues. That said, if I was doing this job again, I'd buy new bushes and release fork and arm before starting the job. The release fork and arm will almost certainly need to be sawn to remove them.

[Leslie green 111]

Good whiteup it sounded  like a tough job  well done for getting it sorted.

[Steve205 16 1 Cars]

Good work. Thanks for heads up on reverse light spade connectors. Was wondering why my reverse light was not working after recently changing clutch. Your post pointed out problem straight away.  Thanks for saving me a lot of needless cable chasing....

[lagonda 42]

You're welcome, good to give something back to the forum, been a great help to me over the years.

 

Regarding the reverse light switch; take care. The terminal spades on my switch were pretty corroded, and bent easily. Could have broken one away if I hadn't been careful, so watch out for that.