Repair sections and bare metal treatment

[Damonh 0]

Hi all

 

This is my first post on this forum, so apologies that the first post if for advice!

 

I am currently in phase one of restoring my 1991 1.9 GTI, and I have stared with this winter's project being the rear end restoration! I have removed the rear beam and fuel tank and I have stripped most of the floor area to bare metal, which in turn has uncovered some metal work repair (as expected)

 

Does anyone know if a repair section is available for this area in front of the rear wheel arch ?

 

 

Also, does anyone have any recommendations on the best products for treating these areas before I repaint body coloured (White)

 

I am sure these topics have been covered on this forum, however I spent some time man looking, hence posting with cap in hand.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Damo

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Just make a section from sheet steel there. No one can see it when the tank is back in, plus its only a flat piece.

[Damonh 0]

5 minutes ago, Tom Fenton said:

Just make a section from sheet steel there. No one can see it when the tank is back in, plus its only a flat piece.

Thanks Tom, I was going to fabricate most of the areas that require replacing, but thought I would check to see if anything was available.

[Leslie green 109]

Not that many repair panels available for a 205 I found but nice to see whats behind it , mine on the left that panel is flat but the right side has a depression in it , not sure if it was supposed to have it for tank pipes or not .Flcikr down so cant show a pic.

Edited December 7, 2021 by Leslie green

[28hodge 22]

On 11/29/2021 at 1:24 PM, Damonh said:

 

 

Also, does anyone have any recommendations on the best products for treating these areas before I repaint body coloured (White)

 

 

 I use the Bilt Hamber products, I am sure its no better or worse than others, I use it purely as it seems to be what everyone uses on classic minis (my other classic car) and those things like to rust!!

[MrAndy 10]

I just purchased front end sheet metal parts from "peugeot205.nl"

 

I am happy with the quality and also the delivery/communication and therefore can recommend you that company.

 

A

[xstian 12]

I now use epoxy primer for protecting bare metal parts under the car. I haven't got the safety equipment to spray it so I hand paint it on, which is quite safe if you use a few precautions. Obviously this is no good for sections you want to get a good paint finish on, but it can be rubbed down to get a reasonable finish with. Its super tough and can be over painted with a paint of your choice. Its worth doing a little reading first into the safety element though.

[28hodge 22]

5 minutes ago, xstian said:

I now use epoxy primer for protecting bare metal parts under the car. I haven't got the safety equipment to spray it so I hand paint it on, which is quite safe if you use a few precautions. Obviously this is no good for sections you want to get a good paint finish on, but it can be rubbed down to get a reasonable finish with. Its super tough and can be over painted with a paint of your choice. Its worth doing a little reading first into the safety element though.

I've just re-sprayed my car, and was going to epoxy prime it first but like you I don't have an air fed mask. I got a lot of conflicting data sheets and understanding around isocyanates in the epoxy primers a lot claim that HB Body 989 is iso free and certain masks with regular (IE Every use) filter changes are also iso protecting. But I didn't fancy the "someone on the internet said it was ok" argument so decided to just go with full cellulose as I was spraying at home in my garage with neighbors and I have 2 children under the age of 6 so wasn't worth the risk. I rang some of the suppliers who were non committal when asked about needing an air fed mask and just said I needed to be happy I was safe after reading the data sheet.

 

For underneath hand applied epoxy primer is ideal, I think I'll get some and apply over xmas, which did you use? not that there is much difference I guess in them.

[xstian 12]

Jotun is what seems to be popular at the moment, if you can find some in the quantity you want. Worth doing a little reading up before you commit though. 

[joris_andriesse 8]

I just started using "Brantho-Korrux 3 in 1" after finding several postive comments about in on oldtimer forums. It's a Dutch company/website, so you will need to use some Google translate: https://hollandcoating.nl/

My first impressions are very positive, it remains a bit flexible and seems to be very strong (so perect for the underside). No, first hand, long term experience from my side.

[pugfrank 14 1 Cars]

On 12/8/2021 at 12:30 PM, 28hodge said:

 I use the Bilt Hamber products, I am sure its no better or worse than others, I use it purely as it seems to be what everyone uses on classic minis (my other classic car) and those things like to rust!!

I can second Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 for rust treatment.   Works a treat in my book.   Im doing the same exercise on my car I will follow by applying a brush on expoxy primer followed by U-pol gravitex. 

[xstian 12]

I've just purchased some of this stuff to paint some suspension components on my Scimitar. Never used it before, but it says its suitable for chassis and bare metal. Rust buster do a similar product and I hear its just a repackaged Jotun product. The Jotun is much cheaper but you have to buy it in large quantities.

 

  https://bilthamber.com/product/epoxy-mastic/

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Seems a lot of money for just 1L. I bought 5L of Jotun a number of years ago, but make a stirrer that fits in a cordless drill to mix the solids back into it and its still perfectly useable after that time.

[xstian 12]

On 12/16/2021 at 1:16 PM, Tom Fenton said:

Seems a lot of money for just 1L. I bought 5L of Jotun a number of years ago, but make a stirrer that fits in a cordless drill to mix the solids back into it and its still perfectly useable after that time.

I agree, Jotun is cheaper if you need 5L. On the other hand I'm not likely to use 5L of the stuff and it certainly does have a shelf life even if you have had success in mixing it. Not much of a saving if I have to throw half of it away or worse find a problem after applying it.