Cold Start Issue 1.9gti 8v

[mannings 1]

Yes TB was pulling on the oil side pipe so ok. Didnt check tb to dizzy but will. 

Check all other pipes now and certain there are no more leaks. 

Hoping @welshpug managed to find the kn induction adopter and then I think my problems might be solved.

 

One check I did this morning was the slave cylinder to inlet manifold. Pipe not leaking but does allow one way suction from slave in the direction  of the inlet manifold. I assume this is correct but wanted to check that this wasnt creating leak path? 

[PhilNW 44]

By slave cylinder do you mean brake master cylinder servo? Yes should be suction on the pipe

 

Might be worth pinching the pipe closed with the engine running to make sure there is no leak on the servo

 

Is there a bolt/fixing screwed into the manifold that holds the oil filler (no 8 on one of the diagrams)  the hole is a direct feed into the manifold.   

 

You are looking for anything that might affect the volume of air through the AFM,  

Edited April 4, 2021 by PhilNW

[mannings 1]

There is a bolt that holds the oil filler but maybe not as tight as it should be. Have nipped up. Love peugeot engineering to create a leak by just tapping though the manifold. Haha. 

Will try pinch of servo unit next time I fire up to see if that affects it. Thanks 

[mannings 1]

Morning. Just realised having never had the 205 running well, I am a little unsure what it should do on start up.

Can anyone describe the revs I should expect to see from cold through to the warm at 950 rpm, and how long this higher revving stage (if indeed it should rev high when cold) would usually last. 

I am guessing that as the sad is a just doing what a manual choke used to do that it should run higher revs when cold then  drop to 950 rpm when warm, or is that not what is expected? 

Edited April 10, 2021 by mannings

[DamirGTI 342]

Should run/idle on higher rpm's (almost) immediately after start up from cold ... by how much higher from the base set warm idle depends on how cold it is that day (ambient temp.) , could be +/adding 200rpm , 300rpm , 400rpm on you're base preset idle the colder it is the higher it'll shift the revs up .

 

Also the length of how long it'll keep the revs high will depend again on the ambient temp. and the engines ability to heat up to the operating temp faster or slower (say if you run cooler or hotter thermostat , how is the ignition timing set up , having higher or lower compression engine etc.)

 

SAD uses two sources to fully close after warm up period , and it needs both to do so .. one is engine coolant temp. and another integrated heater element within the SAD body . It'll work without both initially from cold , but will not close ever after warm up it'll keep upping the revs on a hot engine making it idle in excess of 2000-to-2400 rpm's .

 

The amount of air passing trough the SAD is adjustable to a degree .. there's an 7mm nut on the front side of the SAD with which you can adjust the bimetallic strip inside of it , making the air gap bigger or smaller = more or less air can pass trough which will result in lower or higher initial cold start rev rise .

Factory adjusted air flow trough a 205 SAD is rated at something around 14m3/h , also factory adjusted SAD has the above nut covered with yellow paint - that way you can spot if someone's been there before tampering with it trying to re-adjust the air gap .

 

Check if the connection hoses aren't split , can undo one end and blow trough it and listen if the air passes trough and goes in the inlet manifold (while cold) or if it leaks somewhere in between (if you smoke , light up and blow some smoke trough the SAD pipework .. if there's an split somewhere you'll be able to see the smoke coming from that spot) .

Immediately after the cold start and with the engine idling , pinch the top SAD hose as observe how the engine responds - should start to bog down/stall with the hose pinched if the SAD is doing it's job .. Perform the same test with the engine fully warmed up , but this time pinching the hose must have no effect on the engine idling meaning the SAD is in closed position as it should be .

 

They're pretty crude devices , but does the job and from my personal experience they rarely go bad .. heating element can go bad on some , and they tend to gum up with carbon and oily crap being +20/30 years old which can make the bimetallic disc hard to move (open/close) so taking it out and cleaning it wont do any harm especially if it's never been cleaned out before all these years .

 

 

D

[mannings 1]

So after a bit of a break I have finally had some weekend time to work on the PUG. Great news is she started very nearly first time and then idled beautifully from cold on a damp day. 

Went for a few spins around the block and revved and pulled nicely in all gears. So very pleased. First time that's ever happened in the 15 years I have had the car. Thanks to all the input and specifically @DamirGTI and @PhilNW for your advice. Next step to sort out the rad fan and flakey headlight and then it's off to the MOT garage yippee 

[PhilNW 44]

 Aren't they are good when they work right !

 

 

5 hours ago, mannings said:

Next step to sort out the rad fan and flakey headligh

Dont you just love 30 year old electrics...

[mannings 1]

Tested the rad fan and it was fine but the switch was gone. Headlight also sorted, was just some crusty points on the connector. 

Now just the leaky oil cooler to swap over, oil change and then I can put everything back together again for MoT. 

W

Will send some pics once all rebuilt and clean. She's a beauty 

Edited July 5, 2021 by mannings

[mannings 1]

Been a while since posted on here as moved house and now moved the Pug into its very own workshop....Big day!!! Also whilst changing the oil cooler took the time to add in all my new parts and cleaned most things I could take off without causing more issues. 

Need to rebalance the set up again as starting but revving high so need to tweak something but relaxed that I managed to sort before so can again!! 

Check the pics.....hmmm red and shiny.....

[mannings 1]

Quick question for the forum if you can help me please. 

During  the process of getting the idle back to standard after the rebuild I noticed the alternator was no longer charging the battery. So I popped in a new one and was planning to carry on getting the idle right. However made a stupid mistake and left the battery attached whilst undoing the electrical point on the alternator and created a short off the inlet manifold. Sparks did fly!!!!

Now it won't start!!

Still got a spark but it's very weak and engine just won't bite where it was usually very good at starting it just couldn't idle very well at the right rpm. 

Can anyone suggested items that may  have been damaged during the short, guessing the ignition module maybe or coil? Or something else. Can smell that petrol is getting through and know it ran fine before the short so compression and timing and all that is fine.

Any help really appreciated to help correct my school boy error!!! Haha 

Edited May 11, 2022 by mannings

[Rob_the_Sparky 9]

TBH no idea what you might have fried but the ignition module can certainly stop the car starting even if OK to run the car, been there done that.

 

Is it possible you took out some fuses?

[welshpug 1,661]

Unlikely  you damaged anything in the short bar the battery itself

[mannings 1]

Will check fuses but they seemed OK. Any advice on what could cause a weak spark?