Arthur 13 Posted January 5, 2021 (edited) Hello all Do you have any experience with hard solder on 205? I found out my (sun)roof might be leaking and I took out al interior to pump out 5 liters of water. I will drive without headlining and floor for some time to see how and where the real problem is. I was planning to remove my sunroof, but not sure. If this turns out to be the problem, The decision might be made. Put now checking the forum i see a lot of sunroof removals that I feel like not done very proper. E.g. just masking the rear holes with putty and or just kitting an alu plate. Mine is not a racecar... I have seen a youtube though on tig welding with CuSi filler. (so actually hard soldering) Or do Brit's say brazing? Looked very nice on the spot welded and sealed joints which that are always a weak point on 205s. Also this might be nice to holder a roof skin. They say the CuSi filler melds a bit before the metal, so much less warping and chance of burning holes in thin sheet metal. A bit weaker though than actual welding, but I guess full soldering is better that spot welds every 100 mm. Any experience? Edited January 5, 2021 by Arthur Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ozymandis 97 Posted January 5, 2021 In English we would call using this kind of filler rod, brazing or even bronze welding, rather than soldering. ("Brits " is a derogative term. e.g. Huns, Frogs, Eyeties etc) Traditionally a gas set was used for brazing, and used tacking techniques/heat absorbent putties etc to minimise distortion. I like the idea of tig brazing. Next time I'm in the forge I will have a go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arthur 13 Posted January 5, 2021 (edited) Sorry, I ment English speaking humans. Like people that say bonnet, mudguard and petrol Edited January 5, 2021 by Arthur Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arthur 13 Posted January 13, 2021 Well after letting the car in the rain without headlining and carpet I see the car is as leak as a basket (Dutch expression) Some of the drain tubes of the roof are wet, but also the water is coming in from between the sunroof seal. But also the isolation behind the dash is very wet. Even after I've removed all the leaves and s*it out of the bulkhead top, it still seems to leak in, also from there. Expect some welding/brazing to come up coming weeks. I'm waiting on the CuSi filler rods, to give it a go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nixonmi16 5 Posted January 14, 2021 Check the seam sealer on the strut top mount in the engine bay as this is the bulkhead seam. Open the bonnet and put a hose on the top mount then check for leaks. they can also have holes in the box section by the bonnet hinge. I have loads of photos showing bulkhead repairs in this area. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arthur 13 Posted January 15, 2021 Willdo. If it was summer, I would ask the kids to hose the outside while I'm in the car. But i'm now freezing my hands off clearing near freezing water and 1/2 hour daylight left after work. It's not a runner at the moment, but I hope to solved that soon. Than I can at least drive it 20 meters to my carpoort. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Callum 13 1 Cars Posted January 15, 2021 15 hours ago, nixonmi16 said: Check the seam sealer on the strut top mount in the engine bay as this is the bulkhead seam. Open the bonnet and put a hose on the top mount then check for leaks. they can also have holes in the box section by the bonnet hinge. I have loads of photos showing bulkhead repairs in this area. Could you send me some photos of repairs in the box section please Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arthur 13 Posted January 15, 2021 Bugger. Just did a check with a bucket of water and it came pooring in though the bloower hole. So when you strip the car to let the rain show where the problem is. Do reassemble the black bulkhead cover that prevents the water pooring from the windscreen directly into the blower. Might be the roof is leak, but the dash isolation is wet from me being plain stupid. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nixonmi16 5 Posted January 15, 2021 8 hours ago, Callum said: Could you send me some photos of repairs in the box section please 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arthur 13 Posted January 16, 2021 (edited) Edited January 16, 2021 by Arthur Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Telf 224 2 Cars Posted January 18, 2021 +1 for leaking from the spot shown in the photos. Mine was like Swiss cheese in those areas. You can see pics on my restoration thread. Search Rust rust and more rust Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arthur 13 Posted January 18, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Telf said: +1 for leaking from the spot shown in the photos. Mine was like Swiss cheese in those areas. You can see pics on my restoration thread. Search Rust rust and more rust Yes, read it. It not so bad at mine. Only this and some small rust area's. But I have some welding to do that I want for myself. A proper rear arch enlargement for my fake Rallye skirts, now recently the roof to be welded shut. It's from the F$%king leaves that are always there. We have the same weather as you. But mine spent the first 25 years in France, so it's not too bad, I hope. Problem (challenge) is I'm an amateur welder at best and I have only tig. Edited January 18, 2021 by Arthur Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Telf 224 2 Cars Posted January 18, 2021 Its worth noting that in the scuttle panel area on either side is a 'pad' of sealant. I found that below this sealant the metal had developed tiny rust holes. when the area got suitably wet it leaked here. The holes could not been seen until all the sealant had been removed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arthur 13 Posted January 19, 2021 Well, been to it last evening. The bracket piece thing under the wiper motor is at the same spot as the steering coulomb bracket underneath. So it's a sandwich in that area. The upper bracket is from pic 2 no more. What do you think; is is necessary to make a new bracket for structural integrity? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,547 Posted January 19, 2021 Yes I would be putting it, or something to replace it, back. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arthur 13 Posted January 19, 2021 Oké. Will have to design something new. Something with a better water passage Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arthur 13 Posted January 21, 2021 (edited) It's not beautiful, but it's watertight. The brazing process is fine, but I just can't reach it. At least that will be a lot better with the roof. Edited January 21, 2021 by Arthur Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arthur 13 Posted January 22, 2021 This is a lot of work. Been to our local 205 guy Wednesday . I've drilled all the rivet thingies out, and then drilled the spot welds inside out 3mm, and then outside in 6/7 mm. Lot of rust in the from beam. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arthur 13 Posted January 29, 2021 Update CuSi does make it easier to weld/braze thin metal without blowing holes in the sheets. It's nice for brazing seams that would otherwise be plastered with sealant. It's doesn't help with the roof panel though. The roof still bends like Beckham and warpes like starship enterprise . I'm far beyond the point of no return now, but I think I will end up with a warped roof. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spesh 31 1 Cars Posted January 31, 2021 On 1/22/2021 at 7:44 AM, Arthur said: This is a lot of work. Been to our local 205 guy Wednesday . I've drilled all the rivet thingies out, and then drilled the spot welds inside out 3mm, and then outside in 6/7 mm. Lot of rust in the from beam. How many! I've only ever seen one of those odd high top van things before and nows theres 6 in one picture! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arthur 13 Posted February 1, 2021 He had about double this, before the green police showed up. All are on company storage, and can theoretically go back onto the road. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
