Alternator Goin The Other Way

[Gohn 68]

I have been trying to confirm the part number and specs of my alternator

its a battery killer called Bosch

'93 P205 XUD7 Turbo Diesel

current is draining from the battery to the alternator at like warp speed (as if it had a copper cable connecting them - joke)

happarently the current is sposed to go one way ONLY from alntr thru cable to battery , NEVER the other way

not fond of electrics

alternator is BOSCH #0120488214

tried looking thru the online Peug Catalogue for a part number but cannot deciper it at all

https://catalogs.ssg.asia/peugeot

there is

Alternator Carb

Alternator Petrol/TU

Alternator

the last one has a list of part numbers but no description of which model or engine goes with which

 

think mines 12V 50Amp but without a part number its difficult to confirm

 

and do all the XUD7, XUD9 and turbo versions use the same alternator ?

[Gohn 68]

Ive been trying to confirm the part number and specs of my alternator

its a battery killer called Bosch

'93 P205 XUD7 Turbo Diesel

current is draining from the battery to the alternator at like warp speed (as if it had a copper cable connecting them - joke)

happarently the current is sposed to go one way ONLY from alntr thru cable to battery , NEVER the other way

not fond of electrics

alternator is BOSCH #0120488214

tried looking thru the online Peug Catalogue for a part number but cannot deciper it at all

https://catalogs.ssg.asia/peugeot

there is

Alternator Carb

Alternator Petrol/TU

Alternator

the last one has a list of part numbers but no description of which model or engine goes with which

 

think mines 12V 50Amp but without a part number its difficult to confirm

 

and do all the XUD7, XUD9 and turbo versions use the same alternator ?

[Da Bootou 1]

Hi Mate

 

Not really sure I have read and understood it the way you meant, but there are different current ratings.

Rectified current can only flow one way!

You need to check the positive terminal is connected to the positive on the battery.

Check the body of the alternate gets a good continuity to the negative terminal.

The alternator should push out 13.5vdc  to 14.8 volts typically to charge, if it’s higher there’s something wrong.

If it’s lower than 12, it’s not charging and your car is running off the battery power 

maker sure the battery light comes on at ignition and there’s voltage present at the spade terminals, the light will go out when running.

The info in the workshop manual will be sufficient to determine if it’s charging 

have you checked your battery? Maybe it’s r@@ted!

 

cheers

 

[Ozymandis 97]

Yes thats whats refered to as a 50 amp alternator in PSA part listings.

 

There are several different makes fitted at the factory and all interchange without any modification.

 

That Bosch ones fitted to just about every diesel 205 made in the 90`s I have seen here , only one of mine has a different make. Valeo I think.

 

Very few were fitted with a 70 amp one, usually vans, cold climate models and some higher spec turbo`s. It was an option on all diesels.

 

If its kippered I would reccomend not buying one of the new copy ones flooding the market they are crap, I would either get that one re-conned locally or get an exchange one. Dont be put off if the exchange one is a different make e.g. Valeo or its sub brands they were factory fit as well.

 

1.6 and 1.9 petrol engined  ones are the same they interchange as well.

 

I have the same Bosch one in bits on the bench today, a theraputic potter about in the shed as Im recovering from eye surgery at the mo, its a simple thing to re build presuming Your that kind of bod.

 

Its a very common alternator here fitted to loads of different vehicles.

 

555724 — PEUGEOT

 570525 — PEUGEOT

57052K — PEUGEOT

 570580 — PEUGEOT

 5705JQ — PEUGEOT

 5705Z0 — PEUGEOT

All are interchangeable, I think Yours would have been 57025 new and 5725JQ exchange at a peugeot dealer but You wouldnt neccessarily have got a Bosch made one.

 

 

 

 

[Gohn 68]

thanks

I got a nifty little clampmeter and when out of the car, my alternator failed the diode test

then back in the car connected but engine not running, it showed it was drawing 4.79amp constantly from battery

so not good, thats what did for my battery

looked everywhere for a specialist alternator exchange/rebuilder but the nearest was 1300kms south

price for a new one is crazy and just missed a couple of used possibilities

out of desperation

had a spare 80amp mitsubishi one from a petrol 1.6l 205 on the shelf

always thought it was wrong for the diesel cause it might fry something

but read up on alternator ratings and its good to use !

 

had to file an extra 1mm off the inside pivot bolt fitting but once in its snug

 

fire up and run tomorrow

 

 

[Ozymandis 97]

i would check the size of cable fitted is the same for an 80A one, You never know it may be thicker or even doubled up? Presuming alls well with cable sizing it wont be a problem the regulator will regulate it for You.

 

if Your having to buy a new battery  get the biggest poss that fits the space, I think its an 027( what we call that size here) it wont have any bother at all.

 

Some versions had that 80A alternator, but the biggest i have ever had in my hands from a diesel was the 70A.

 

Was the current draw with the ignition switched off/key out?

 

They do draw current with the ignition switched on but the engine not running. Its the initial exciter current for the rotor coil, that's what makes the warning light illuminate.

 

The female threaded steel bush for the pivot bolt can be adjusted by carefully bashing it in or out of the Al lug to suit minor variations in mounting width.

 

https://www.puretyre.co.uk/car-battery-specification-chart/

 

[309SRiguy 15]

A Bosch agent should be able to supply a regulator/brushes set for your Bosch alternator.

 

You might be able to give the commutator a bit of a cleanup while it is apart.

 

I haven't watched right through but this link shows the type of set I referred to.        

 

[Gohn 68]

 I did check the cable size was ok, was a bit worried about that

and the current drain was with ignition off key out

I thought about thumping that little pivot bolt steel bush to get a roomier fit, but just thought Id end up breaking another alternator, so went with the file

I think some of the problems with upscaling to a higher altntr amperage is because some people get massive stereos and computer screens and go from like 50A to 300A, then your old cable cant cope

but not a problem in my case, Im so frugal on power usage I dont think I'll ever need the 80A max on the little mitsubishi

 

bryan, I'd already sourced a new regulator and installed it. unfortunately it turned out to be a diode problem and I found that out the hard way - killed a brand new expensive battery

(did you get the 309 in NZ ? any diesel versions ?)

[309SRiguy 15]

Gohn,  Good to see you have a solution.

 

The 309 models are not very common here.  I have an SR  and an SRi. ( XU5 1C and XU5 JA engines) I haven't seen any diesels. There are more of the 1.9 GTi but even those are a rare sight.

They were expensive cars in NZ in the late 80's and early 90's. Also French products fell out of favour here after the bombing of the Rainbow Warrior by French agents. I missed it all. I was living in Brisbane at the time.

FastFrogs has a Facebook page and fastfrogs.co.nz has a website (it is a bit slow there at present).   

[Gohn 68]

after installing and testing the altntr, moved on to other fixes/improvements

but now Im double fine checking everything for roadworthy

and discover that with ignition key at Accessories (first click around from STOP)

guages work but no dash lights ..

went back over some older posts and came upon the same symptoms here

 

https://www.205gtidrivers.com/forums/topic/174648-dash-lights-whats-on-with-ignition/?tab=comments#comment-1534251

 

mine's a 205 Si dash/loom with XUD7TE engine, so not to be confused with the GTi dash or engine

but still should get the same 4 test lights on the dash.

Oil Pressure (top left), STOP, Battery, Coolant Temp (bottom right)

 

so following the earlier post I went back into the engine bay and looked at the oil PRESSURE sender wire/plug

(its a single purple 30 wire with a black female spade plug, the sender is located centre of the block just above the oil filter)

not connected

so plugged it back on and my dash lights came up

all EXCEPT the battery light ??

 

earlier had trouble with the Altntr, and the battery light was working

it was actually on as soon as I connected the battery terminals

warning that the alternator is drawing current !

but now I've got a good alternator, and the battery light does not come on ?