Clutch fork.. how much play is normal?

[dawning 11]

Bit of I dilemma with my Citroen c15, sorry 205gtidrivers ! Clutch is gone, at the top of the road which was convenient, the release bearing failed. I have a new clutch and was going to tackle it tomorrow, however the clutch fork is waving around all over the place which I assume isn't normal but just wanted to check. Should have ordered some sooner, it's part numbers 2175.21 & 2175.22. van has done just under 110k do these things normal need replacing when the clutch goes?

Edit: it's a be3 gearbox I believe 

Thanks guys 

Edited October 10, 2020 by dawning

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Is this with the clutch cable disconnected?

 

You normally have some movement on the arm, the release bearing won't be in contact with the pressure late springs until you fit the cable properly.

 

IIRC about an inch of arm movement is normal but I can check on a car I have at my unit in the next few days for comparison.

 

g

[dawning 11]

The clutch cable is still on but it's slack because the pedal droped to the floor. The lever wobbles up and down quite a bit like the bushes are worn but wasn't sure if it's ment to be like that, I cant see how the bushes would be worn enough to feel like that.

[Ozymandis 97]

Do You mean the plastic bushes that the metal fork/shaft pivots on, that are inserted in the ally bell housing?

 

If so, Yes these wear and become oval.

 

Beware of this job, do a few searches on here, there is a plethora of detailed info in the forum.

 

Its often leads to a new fork/bushes/pin/operating arm when you end up drilling/cutting/grinding the old operating arm/pin off.

 

And sometimes a new gearbox when you snap the fragile ally retainer ribs/lugs in the bellhousing.

 

If they have some slop leave well alone, clean and lubricate as best as you can without fully dismantling.

 

I have done a fair few and its rare for it to be as easy as it appears.

[dawning 11]

Yeah, the white plastic bushes you can see the top one from outside. I'll do another search on here, leaving it alone would definitely be the preferred option! I had assumed it would be a simple job, thanks for the info.

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

2 hours ago, Ozymandis said:

 

I have done a fair few and its rare for it to be as easy as it appears.

Excellent summary!

[dawning 11]

Managed to get this done today, except for the speedometer drive has this weird rubber thing that secures it and it doesn't want to go back in. I shall persevere tomorrow, my back couldn't take it anymore.

It's actually a be4 gearbox, might be suitable ratios to wack it on a 205 auto (89hp) that's in the family when the c15 has turned completely into rust.

[Ozymandis 97]

Well done, come at it fresh tomorrow.

 

The taper plug goes in easy enough, if not, then the cable needs to be pushed further into the speedo drive .

 

Pull the cable back out, oil/grease the O ring, so it pushes in easier, and rotate the inner cable a little  then try to push it in again, sometimes the inner cables not seated into the pinions output drive hole, the first time or two.

The rubber wedge should go in as You push the cable down at the same time, easy enough when You get the v simple knack.

Edited October 11, 2020 by Ozymandis

[dawning 11]

Cheers! still not managed to do it the fat bit just won't go it, but I don't think it's going to fall out so I just left it half way through :/ 

[Gohn 68]

what ozymandis said,

only a few weeks back I did have exactly the trouble described

pin frozen solid, if I bash it the bell housing will break as described, so I drilled it out freehand

had to replace pin, release shaft and release lever, but saved the bellhousing/gearbox

 

also rubber grease helps the speedo rubber pin slot in properly