Idle issues - Don’t shoot me I know it’s been covered!

[Weser 30]

Hi All. It’s been a while over a year since being on here I believe. I must admit my life changed dramatically and cars were not such an important hobby like they were when I used to lurk on here w bit more. 
 

Anyway I need help I’m out of ideas so hoping the brains on here can give me some. Last summer my 1.9 (Jetronic) was running sweet it had been trouble free for a while. Then one day I jumped in it and it just wouldn’t idle. Not from cold not from hot. Just come up to a junction and when you take you foot off it just cuts out. 
 

I put it away as I didn’t have the time to get into it. I’ve pulled it out today to try and get it working. A mouse had eaten the air filter - picture for your amusement. Anyway car still won’t idle. Here is what I’ve done. 
- checked the TPS

- cleaned the throttle body

- checked wiring to coolant sensor (car won’t run without that plugged in so I believe that it is working) 

- checked for air leaks. 
- fiddled with idle screw on body and mixture screw on afm. Doesn’t make a lot of difference. 
 

I’m getting a slight idle if I bring the revs down slow but it’s idling at 500 and lumpy. Exhaust smells rich. I haven’t really driven it as it’s not taxed but it seems to rev fine through the rest of the range. I don’t really want to take the lid off the AFM as it took me ages to get it set up right when I did it a few years back but I wonder if the track has gone in it around idle? 
 

anyone got some ideas of what else to look at. Car was running great that’s the weird bit. 

[Zetec7 4]

I feel your pain. I inherited  a 1 owner 140K 1-9 that would not tick over hot or cold unless at 1200rpm.    So Blue sensor was at not reading smoothly so a new 1 helped. SAD valve was open when cold & reading 46 oms and took 5 mins to close on 12v.  MAF meter striped and no fault found. TB cleaned and switch checked out OK  Resistance on brown plug OK on all wires. Will run fine at 1200rpm when cold for 2 mins then will stall at the drop of the clutch pedal after that. I can set it up when hot on the T/B at 900rpm and you can feel the mixture change on the mixture screw on the MAF but the next cold start it will fine at 1200 for 2 mins then run rich and flood out . The SAD is pulling air while its open as you can feel it if you take off the  pipe and block it with your finger.

Only fault I have found is their is 9v on both terminals on the plug for the SAD so I made a J/T plug and connected it to the battery and still the same problem. Compression's all OK New Plugs and competition HT leads. Vacuum unit OK  No air leaks that I can find..  It stalls out rich not weak. 

I will find it but its a real pain in the arse not made any easier by Peugeot,s s*it wiring  

[Weser 30]

It is such a pain. It’s so annoying as mine was fine then a week of two later it wasn’t. I wonder if mouse got in earlier than I thought. I’ve had another tinker tonight. Coolant temperature sensor is working well. Had it in a kettle and watched the resistance. Took the SAD off and it was full of mousey home. Cleared that out. Now it idles every time the revs drop but only at like 700. I can’t get it any faster whatever I do which is weird. I’m thinking mouse bits might be in the AFM somewhere. I will have a look tomorrow. 
 

Zetec7 when you replaced the coolant temp sensor did you get a genuine Bosch one. Just a thought as I replaced mine with a patent one when I was having problems once years ago and it helped but I still wasn’t right. When I put a proper Bosch one in it transformed it. 

[Zetec7 4]

Yep I only use Bosch parts now as too many s*it bits built in the far east