Clutch actuator bush question

[Philpooma 30]

The clutch actuator on this gearbox is very stiff in operation so I have assumed that K need to remove it, clean up rod and fit new bushes.

I couldn’t find any instructions on how to do this in the Haynes manual, so I hope someone on here can give me some more guidance.

I have managed to release the tabs on the top bush and was hoping that it was simple a case of tapping the rod out of the bushes.

unfortunately the Thrust race tabs will hit the input shaft before the rod comes out.

Do I need to remove the input shaft to do this operation or have I done about it the wrong way?

I did search the forum, but couldn't find a previous answer to this, thanks

[Ozymandis 97]

This comes up a lot, do another search.

It usually ends up with hacksaws/grinders etc and having to buy a new assembly.

Essentially You have to remove the pin holding the operating arm to the shaft, it rarely goes well, its basically a flashy nail.

Its very easy to break the aluminium of the gearbox, tig welding repairs etc.

 

Do not think it will be as simple as it appears.

 

My advice is emery cloth the bits of the shaft you can get at, loads of oil and work it back and forth, it will free up.

 

The M7 thread on the pin is supposed to be used to pull it out with a slide hammer.

 

Dont try beating it out with a hammer You will be sorry.

 

https://www.205gtidrivers.com/forums/topic/173226-clutch-armfork-movement/?tab=comments#comment-1524863

Edited December 11, 2019 by Ozymandis

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

The only way I have done it is to carefully linish the m7 pin down until it’s flush, centre punch it, carefully drill it out. Then use a puller to pull the clutch arm off the cross shaft.

Not an easy job tbh as there’s no easy way to hold the shaft still whilst you are trying to drill the pin out.

[PhilNW 44]

I have managed to get the pin out with a slide hammer a couple of 7 mm nuts and a home made bracket, I have also had to drill it out as per toms's advice 

[Thijs_Rallye 87 4 Cars]

I've had success multiple with a m7 and m8 nut and a few washers. Put on a few washers, tighten m7 nut untill the threads end, remove nut, add washer or m8 nut and repeat untill it's out.

 

Later boxes on the 306 used a different fit pin (slide fit), which can be used.

[Philpooma 30]

22 hours ago, Ozymandis said:

This comes up a lot, do another search.

It usually ends up with hacksaws/grinders etc and having to buy a new assembly.

Essentially You have to remove the pin holding the operating arm to the shaft, it rarely goes well, its basically a flashy nail.

Its very easy to break the aluminium of the gearbox, tig welding repairs etc.

 

Do not think it will be as simple as it appears.

 

My advice is emery cloth the bits of the shaft you can get at, loads of oil and work it back and forth, it will free up.

 

The M7 thread on the pin is supposed to be used to pull it out with a slide hammer.

 

Dont try beating it out with a hammer You will be sorry.

 

https://www.205gtidrivers.com/forums/topic/173226-clutch-armfork-movement/?tab=comments#comment-1524863

Thank you for the reply.

unfortunately the searches I do always seem to pull up loads of topics that contain one of the words in my search.

I have tried restricting to the exact phrase, but I seem to get the same result, I’m sure its an issue with me....

On 6/14/2019 at 10:55 AM, mmt said: with me....

Edited December 12, 2019 by Philpooma

[Philpooma 30]

18 hours ago, Tom Fenton said:

The only way I have done it is to carefully linish the m7 pin down until it’s flush, centre punch it, carefully drill it out. Then use a puller to pull the clutch arm off the cross shaft.

Not an easy job tbh as there’s no easy way to hold the shaft still whilst you are trying to drill the pin out.

Appreciate the advise Tom, thanks

[Philpooma 30]

9 hours ago, PhilNW said:

I have managed to get the pin out with a slide hammer a couple of 7 mm nuts and a home made bracket, I have also had to drill it out as per toms's advice 

Thanks Phil

[Philpooma 30]

1 hour ago, Thijs_Rallye said:

I've had success multiple with a m7 and m8 nut and a few washers. Put on a few washers, tighten m7 nut untill the threads end, remove nut, add washer or m8 nut and repeat untill it's out.

 

Later boxes on the 306 used a different fit pin (slide fit), which can be used.

Now that makes a lot of sense, no risky hammering, I’ll try to clean up the rod as suggested Ozy, if this does not work I’ll hive the nuts and washers a go, cheers

[Ozymandis 97]

I once got one out with Thijs`s pile of washers and m7 nut, the other time I tried it just stripped the thread, Strut top mount nuts are the correct thread and deeper than a regular hex nut so have more threads in contact.

 

I have got two out with an m7 threaded adapter onto a slide hammer, and unfortunately I have had to drill numerous others out.

 

Sometimes You get the pin out and the arm needs serious pulling to get it off the shaft.

 

Its really easy to break the alloy casting within the bellhousing around the base of the top plastic bush, be very careful if trying to get the arm off.

 

TBH I hate this job.

Edited December 12, 2019 by Ozymandis

[Philpooma 30]

On 12/12/2019 at 9:31 PM, Ozymandis said:

I once got one out with Thijs`s pile of washers and m7 nut, the other time I tried it just stripped the thread, Strut top mount nuts are the correct thread and deeper than a regular hex nut so have more threads in contact.

 

I have got two out with an m7 threaded adapter onto a slide hammer, and unfortunately I have had to drill numerous others out.

 

Sometimes You get the pin out and the arm needs serious pulling to get it off the shaft.

 

Its really easy to break the alloy casting within the bellhousing around the base of the top plastic bush, be very careful if trying to get the arm off.

 

TBH I hate this job.

Appreciate the additional info, I’ll post how I get on once I have completed the job.

Fingers crossed.

[Philpooma 30]

Quick update on this subject. I really appreciate the advise that you have all given me and can report that I have now successfully got out the remaining part of the reverse light switch.

I ended up trying the path of least resistance suggested by Ozzyman. So I cleaned up both ends of the selector rods using emery cloth and oil, once the metal was clean and rust free, I greased it all up and pushed the selector rod back into place. It now moves freely, so job done .