Another beam related question!

[Telf 224 2 Cars]

This screw and washer that fits on the anti roll bar- is it vital? As far as I can tell it's to help remove the ARB plate? 

 

The reason I ask is one won't wind fully in to the ARB despite me retapping the thread. As it won't wind up to the washer I can't get the ARBplates to fit so im abit stuck. I was thinking I might just shorten the screw thread a touch or not bother fitting them.

 

Thoughts pleasr

 

Thanks

[Duroc 2 1 Cars]

Bolts/studs are only put in there, as you say, to take off and put on the ARB plates. Then they are taken out. When fitted on a plastic cap is screwed into the hole to stop crap getting in. If the thread is gone in the arb, so a stud can't be screwed in to draw the ARB plate onto the ARB, I'd just carefully tap it on with a rubber mallet

[Telf 224 2 Cars]

ive realised what ive done- the stud in the picture is supposed to go into the opposite end of the torsion bar isn't it?

 

ive misread the diagram on the how to guide I think

 

[Telf 224 2 Cars]

so after much pondering i've worked out that I have indeed fitted both torsion bars without the  screw arrowed in the picture. I've already fitted the offset washer and screw to the other side. the torsion bar is perfectly secure and fully engaged so my question is do I need to take it to pieces again?

[Telf 224 2 Cars]

so my beam currently looks like the picture below- the stud isn't there but the torsion bar is fully inserted and secure at the other end

 

 

Edited February 27, 2019 by Telf

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Is this a serious question? Yes the double ended stud is required.

[Telf 224 2 Cars]

yeah it is tom - its that tight I was wondering if its just there to draw the bar in or it holds it- that's all

[welshpug 1,656]

not to draw it in at all, firm finger pressure should get them in, the stud sets the clearance to the seal between the arm and the seal, then the nut holds it all in place.

[Telf 224 2 Cars]

Ok I see I'll take it to bits again. I actually struggled to get the splines to engage . Had to tap them in bit I think that was because of residual paint . Shouldn't take long to sort out.

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

You need to clean the splines so you can see your face in them. The bars should slide into the housing/arm with not much more than finger pressure with the trailing arm hanging off the dummy damper. That is the only way to get an accurate ride height and corner weight set up side to side. The double ended stud sets the seal clearance at the opposite end of the bar. It is this attention to detail that makes the difference between a car that drives well and lasts as it should to one that will drive like s*ite and/or give problems prematurely.

[Telf 224 2 Cars]

All stripped and redone . Think sorted now. Thanks for the help

[Duroc 2 1 Cars]

Seeing as I'm fairly local to you, I can check it over for you if you like?

[Telf 224 2 Cars]

Yeah that would be great. I think it's fine but another set of eyes is always good

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Top damper bolts wrong way round, you cannot remove them like that with the beam fitted to the car.

Anti roll bar end plates need properly drawing onto the bar as the seals won't seal properly, and the tyre side wall will be very very close, or actually rubbing on the end plates with them like that, there is not lots of clearance even as totally standard. Are those washers under the plate at the fixing end, if so remove them.

[Telf 224 2 Cars]

5 hours ago, Tom Fenton said:

 

Right I'll swap the bolts round. I fitted them as I found them from when I stripped it.

 

So the roll bar plate I take it the orange seal shouldn't be visible at all. I wasn't sure and couldn't find any confirmation. They weren't fitted at all before.

[Telf 224 2 Cars]

Thanks for the help so far. Heres a couple of pics of the interface between the beam and the arms. Correct or not? I have adjusted it with the screw on the torsion bars. 

[Duroc 2 1 Cars]

The seals look a little too squashed. Haynes says you should be able to get a 0.05mm feeler gauge in between the arm and the seal

[Duroc 2 1 Cars]

....or in other words, adjust so that the seal just touches the arm

[Telf 224 2 Cars]

I'm slightly confused tbh . Having read the Haynes and the guides I'm.measuring the gap between the silver cap over the seal and the arm right?

 

So between the silver portion and the arm I should be able to insert a 0.05mm feeler

[Duroc 2 1 Cars]

The feeler should go between the silver cup and the black seal lip, The lip should just be touching the silver cup, but you should be able to just slide the feeler in

[Telf 224 2 Cars]

Crap . It's too tight then!

 

Ok I'll back it off a bit. Thanks very much.

[Telf 224 2 Cars]

Hopefully the seal will be ok!

[Telf 224 2 Cars]

So I think I've sorted the anti roll bar seals- does this look better? 

 

 

[Telf 224 2 Cars]

I've fitted the caliper mounts and had a look at the new hubs. I'm rather concerned that they are incorrect, it looks to me like they are too big and will catch on the caliper mount, I've looked on service box as I thought maybe there was a spacer or something behind the hub, which isn't the case. Pictures below . 

[Telf 224 2 Cars]

So I'm not sure if I've ended up with an incorrect part or not. The old ones where binned by the workshop when the axle was stripped so I've nothing to compare it with