xud7t/k Recommendations on starter and battery cable for an XUD7T/K?

[AaronMountford1990 0 1 Cars]

Hello all, 

 

I managed to get my STDT started about 4 months ago by bodging the battery wiring back together - it's in a right mess, and now I know it runs the timing belt n water pump are en route but along with that I need a way of making the wiring more secure, the main battery wiring from the starter to the battery terminal has fell to pieces, fraying everywhere and the crimp connectors are coming off (amazingly not through corrosion though, they appear to be too short), so I'm going to replace them, however I wanted to ask if anyone's used somewhere specific before for battery / starter cables because the last thing I want is a cable that's too small that turns into an inductive trace heater 

 

It's looking like a lot of the wiring for main power has had it, so it'd be replacing both the battery live and return and both starter motor cables as I'd prefer to swap them out than splice given the cable size. 

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

I’d say 25mm^2 cable is probably adequate, check out a wiring supplier such at Vehicle Wiring Priducts, or Polevolt, whose catalogues will tell you what max current the various cable gauges are rated at.

The cable and terminals are easy to get and not that dear, however it’s the proper crimping tool you will need to do a good job will set you back a lot more.

My local auto electrical place will

make cables up while you wait to your dimensions or pattern, that may be a good option if you don’t want to buy the tool. I make a few so I did buy the tool. Polevolt do some 90 degree lugs which make a neat job of certain applications.

[AaronMountford1990 0 1 Cars]

It's probably worth me taking the existing ones off and taking em somewhere and saying I need that, plus about 40mm extra in length because they're really snug at the minute. 

 

Was just cautious on current capacity as I'm unsure on what the starter or battery cables are rated at normally. Pointless me buying 75A cable if the starter outputs 300A etc. 

[welshpug 1,657]

starter is typically circa 1-1.2 Kw, alternator is 70 amp tops on a 205, more likely 50, and you also have the feed from the positive terminal to the Shunt box which takes 20 amp fuses maximum from memory.   ( I don't recall the calculations to work out wire sizing sorry!)

 

also you will have a glow/heater plug relay with a good sized wire which needs to be in good condition to aid cold starting.

[AaronMountford1990 0 1 Cars]

On ‎10‎/‎10‎/‎2018 at 3:41 PM, welshpug said:

starter is typically circa 1-1.2 Kw, alternator is 70 amp tops on a 205, more likely 50, and you also have the feed from the positive terminal to the Shunt box which takes 20 amp fuses maximum from memory.   ( I don't recall the calculations to work out wire sizing sorry!)

 

also you will have a glow/heater plug relay with a good sized wire which needs to be in good condition to aid cold starting.

Well I checked a replacement starter motor, just a cheap euro car parts one just to see what kind of power rating they were, and they were saying 1.7Kw which means 142A starting current, add to that the alternator 70A and adding a safety margin of 1.2 I'm looking at about 230A rating on cable, which looks like 35mm cable! 

 

I've brought some quick release battery clamps for now just to improve the wiring that's left, they're clamped in as best as they can be, which will get it started for now - but I'll need to replace those cables in the future as they don't look the best and they're a little on the short side. 

 

But first I'm half way through the timing belt and water pump replacement, just trying to get my head around the Gates kit I brought having a bolt pattern slightly different than what's come off - I'm assuming it's the original water pump as the impeller is metal, not the plastic ones you'd expect. I'm also fixing oil leaks on the sump plug, sump gasket and replacing a coolant leak on the metal pipework in the drivers side arch. 

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

The cable will never see full alternator current AND full starter current at the same time.

You will find 35mm cable gets pretty bulky and difficult to route. More than 2 of my cars run fine on 25mm.

[jackherer 543]

Also the starter isn't a continuous load unlike the alternator, the cable rating for a short burst of current will be higher.

[AaronMountford1990 0 1 Cars]

On 10/14/2018 at 7:48 PM, Tom Fenton said:

The cable will never see full alternator current AND full starter current at the same time.

You will find 35mm cable gets pretty bulky and difficult to route. More than 2 of my cars run fine on 25mm.

Noted, i'll see what I can get.

On 10/14/2018 at 8:04 PM, jackherer said:

Also the starter isn't a continuous load unlike the alternator, the cable rating for a short burst of current will be higher.

True. 

 

Anyone know anything about engine mounts? The upper drivers side one on top of the engine has sheared off. Rang Peugeot and they don't make em anymore - it's the one with the bracket that goes over the timing belt cover on the XUD7T/K

 

I know BBM do a fast road kit but I wanted to see if there's still some standard compliance bushes around anywhere as I'm conscious with Fast road mounts on an already shaky diesel engine is going to make it ride like a traaa-or (tractor)..