Road and race mi16 engine. Help me spec it!

[petert 586]

Your first step is to strip the XU10J4, remove oil gallery bungs & oil squirters, then get out the die grinder and remove all sharp edges and casting defects on the inside and around oil return paths. Start a build thread and post us some pics.

[IRISH_MI16 2]

8 hours ago, petert said:

Your first step is to strip the XU10J4, remove oil gallery bungs & oil squirters, then get out the die grinder and remove all sharp edges and casting defects on the inside and around oil return paths. Start a build thread and post us some pics.

I'll get to it over the weekend. Haha divorce might be part of this engine build lol

[Batfink 201]

Do you have to stick with a Peugeot engine? The cheapness, availability and strength of the jap engines was enough for me to switch!

Its probably less stressful too lol

[IRISH_MI16 2]

9 hours ago, Batfink said:

Do you have to stick with a Peugeot engine? The cheapness, availability and strength of the jap engines was enough for me to switch!

Its probably less stressful too lol

If it hasn't got a pug engine it's not a pug to me. Just personally preferance is all. I can see the reasoning behind it but it's just not to my taste or the way I want my car. That's said if I had 505 I'd put an sr20det in it

[IRISH_MI16 2]

Since my last post events have transpired in a massive way! 

I have start stripping the spare xu9j4 

Heads off it and will strip that down over the weekend. And throw it in the dishwasher. 

 

During the week I received a very interesting message from a chap that I had done some dealing with. 

He's got a decked iron block, 12.5:1 omega forged pistons 

Balanced and knife edged hdi crank shaft

The head is bare but fully ported and polished

Also has reground cams but he is unsure of the degree. 

I'm not entirely sure i will use those. There's also vernier pulleys too! 

This is all fantastic news really as it is going to save me Alot of money 

Best part is all documentation is presant! 

 

As for valves I'm going 36.25 inlet. This leaves me to figure out exhaust valve size (I think standard should be adequate) and cam degree. 

 

Going to go for forged H beam con rods with arp bolts. 

 

This is my first serious engine build so I'm very excited about it. I've built a few 160-180 bhp turbo diesels but never anything like this so I am really looking forward to it. 

[petert 586]

Good work. You need to get rid of that heater bypass tube however. Use an 8V alloy inlet housing and remove the pipe from the thermostat housing.

 

H beam rods are unnecessarily heavy for your application. They're just cheap because of mass production in China. Visit someone like Robsons and get them to engineer an I beam solution for your application.

 

Just remembered it's an iron block. Use the original alloy inlet but cut off and TIG up one of the small hoses entries.

Edited August 13, 2018 by petert