Telf 224 2 Cars Posted April 20, 2018 (edited) Can anybody give me any advice on the best way to remove the pin on the clutch arm so I can get the bushes changed! Thanks Edited April 20, 2018 by Telf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,661 Posted April 20, 2018 its an M7 thread, the dealer way is a slide hammer attachment, I have had some success with adding a small section of tube and winding an M7 nut down it, though the threads aren't that strong really. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miles 331 1 Cars Posted April 20, 2018 To carry on from the engine post, I always cut these off as it's allot quicker time wise when the customer is paying to replace it with new, I tend to fit the 306 pin thou as it's easier to get out providing it's greased before fitting Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,542 Posted April 21, 2018 If you are careful you can drill the pin out and then draw the arm off with a puller. You need a good eye to drill the pin out square though without deviating. The arm will also likely be a tight fit on the shaft and need a good puller to get it off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
allanallen 528 2 Cars Posted April 21, 2018 Ages since I’ve done one but I’m sure I’ve always just drifted them out in the past?! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,661 Posted April 21, 2018 the later smooth pins with the spring tend to come out easy but the earlier type have a very slight taper near the threaded end and go in very tight. access to drift them out is not great, you cant get a straight hit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,542 Posted April 21, 2018 12 minutes ago, allanallen said: Ages since I’ve done one but I’m sure I’ve always just drifted them out in the past?! You’ve drilled one out with me stood next to you! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
allanallen 528 2 Cars Posted April 21, 2018 5 minutes ago, Tom Fenton said: You’ve drilled one out with me stood next to you! Better memory than me! Insert tom Fenton hammer joke here..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,542 Posted April 21, 2018 Well obviously we tried the hammer first to no avail Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
allanallen 528 2 Cars Posted April 21, 2018 I was possibly making a point about not using a hammer on that particular gearbox Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Telf 224 2 Cars Posted April 21, 2018 thanks guys, yesterday I tried putting a couple of nuts on it to lock them and then used a hammer drill action to persuade it- that didn't work... then I put a set of mole grips on it and that just knackered the threads... then I set about it with a drift and a hammer- but the access is crap and I didn't fully commit because I didn't want to damage the case. Last option today is drill it out I think then failing that cut the whole thing off. What a crap design. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted April 21, 2018 6 hours ago, Telf said: What a crap design. I take it you haven't seen how a BE1 works? A BE3 is a brilliant design in comparison! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Telf 224 2 Cars Posted April 21, 2018 no mate I haven't - its still a bonk design. I used my engineering know-how and resorted to a hammer, punch and junior hacksaw, got it out in about an hour LoL Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted April 21, 2018 The BE3 clutch mechanism was designed as an improvement to fit the pre existing BE1 case design so they were working with some hard limitations, you can actually retrofit a BE3 setup onto a BE1 case! Peugeot did that themselves with Mi16 BE1 boxes. That is why maintenance is awkward, the casing was an existing design that they had to develop around. As it fixed so many problems inherent to the BE1 I stand by what I said. I'll show you a BE1 sometime and you'll agree when you see it! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,661 Posted April 21, 2018 the original iteration of the be1 was much like the be4 iirc, cable directly to the end of the arm. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted April 21, 2018 OK so the dowel that can just fall on the floor came later? The other problem is the balljoint for the arm inside the box with rivets holding it on that fall off. And also the arm the cable goes onto fatiguing and bending over time. I've had all of those happen more than once with BE1 205s and BXs but I've never had a problem with a BE3 clutch release mechanism that I recall other than one snapped cable. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,661 Posted April 21, 2018 the pin that falls off should have a spring to stop it falling off Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted April 22, 2018 Really? There is a spring to hold in part number 2120 46? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
farmer 328 1 Cars Posted April 22, 2018 They are only listed on the 309 page for some reason Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted April 22, 2018 I've never even seen one of those! Most BE1 cars I've had were BXs rather than 205s/309s but I've worked on loads of them for other people on here over the years. Presumably the ones that weren't just thrown away by mechanics that couldn't see the point of them eventually rusted away and fell off? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
farmer 328 1 Cars Posted April 22, 2018 They don't last very long I have about 6 or 7 new ones and nobody ever asks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted April 22, 2018 I always lockwired the pin to something so it would just be hanging there if anything happened. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Callum 13 1 Cars Posted April 14, 2019 On 4/20/2018 at 9:37 PM, welshpug said: its an M7 thread, the dealer way is a slide hammer attachment, I have had some success with adding a small section of tube and winding an M7 nut down it, though the threads aren't that strong really. Any idea in what pitch the thread is? I'm. Not with the box but going to try and get a m7 nut tomorrow Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
