dawning 11 Posted October 24, 2017 (edited) My car went for an MOT today, I could see something was wrong by the look on the testers face as soon as he opened the bonnet lol. Fortunately they informed me it was going to fail so we cancelled the test. I was a bit surprised as it's never been even mentioned as an advisory at my usual place but they assured me that it should have been. It's in the usual place where the jack is mounted, I usually have a jack in there which maybe hides the problem but I didn't today. I know this is a really common problem, I will attach a photo and I ask for some wisdom on the issue, I'm tempted to chuck rust converter on fill the hole up and paint it, and put the jack back in place and take it to a different garage. My question is, is this a terrible idea? How much roughly would it cost to get fixed, the garage that did the MOT where booked up and didn't want to waste more of their time. I have access to a mig welder but 0 welding experience so I'm not sure it's a great idea to attempt it myself although I would like to learn. Having trouble uploading a picture but basically you can seen the tyre that's how big the hole is, and the area around the engine mounting support thing is a bit rusty as well. I know my bodge idea is not a long term solution but I just want to get the car on the road as its my only ride at the moment, i want to be able to drive it and continue doing little jobs on it as I have about a months insurance left on it. Thanks for reading, sorry for another help me essay! Edited October 24, 2017 by dawning Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steve@cornwall 100 Posted October 24, 2017 Can't help on cost, but any bodge covering it up will only encourage further corrosion. Even cutting out the rot and having an ugly welded repair would be preferable. As far as I know, any perforating corrosion within 30cm of a structural component will fail, along with any corrosion which, in the testers opinion, weakens vehicle structure. So, strictly speaking I reckon even a perforation above the rear window and within a foot of the top seatbelt mount is a failure (but not often noted) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gaz205 50 Posted October 24, 2017 If you want it cleaning up and plating over to earn you a few years prob about £50-£100 To do it properly I.e have it cut out and a neat repair, maybe £150 plus paint. If it's easily accessible I tend to find the quotes Aren't that high. These are quotes I received a year ago to tidy up an inner wing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leslie green 110 Posted October 24, 2017 Jack doesn't usually hide the problem as they can see it from underneath ! best to get it sorted with metal even if it's a plate for now ,filler won't fool any decent mot tester . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dawning 11 Posted October 24, 2017 Thanks for the replies , I will phone a few places tomorrow, hopefully get it sorted properly. If anyone has any recomdations in the Reading area let me know. Or any members that want to earn some dollar and maybe I can watch/help and learn a few tricks that would be ideal. It's funny that it's never even been an advisory before at my usual MOT place, they failed my van just a month ago on rust, I had to scrap it was that bad. The place I took it to today advised me to try tacking it back there but it's over 50 miles away from me now, and I think they may have got a lot stricter on rust. Apparently it's ok to drive anywhere for an MOT so it's still an option! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miles 331 1 Cars Posted October 24, 2017 It will be noted now so will be looked at again, It's one of those MOT things as with the qtr panel rust failing for the seat belt, even thou it has nothing to do with the mounting point its near it and being glued on makes no odds, the front section is not structural, look at some car's and they just run a plastic liner in front of the strut, all the strength is behind it. At least you can get the repair panels now, beats making something Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dawning 11 Posted October 24, 2017 Won't be noted because the MOT didn't actually happen. My thoughts as well, it's not affecting anything really.. why it's never even been an advisory before. Where do you get the repair panels from? If I painted it all unless they used magnets which I'm sure they wouldn't I might possibly get away with it.. This is so common on 205s and it's not really any worse than they last three MOT s I've had done so I wasn't really expecting it to fail on this. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugdamo 111 2 Cars Posted October 24, 2017 Unless it's really bad it shouldn't really be an MOT issue, the measurement should be taken 30cm from the suspension mounting point, most of the time the corrosion falls outside the area, get on one of the mounting studs fire the strut top and measure to the hole. To be honest you want to get it welded up anyway, but for an MOT it probably isn't even relevant. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tartanbloke 35 1 Cars Posted October 25, 2017 As with any corrosion, do it properly or you will just be in the same position (or possibly worse) in a couple of years time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dawning 11 Posted October 25, 2017 Going to take it to a garage tomorrow, hopefully they give me a fair price and understand that I've no intention of ever selling my car and can do a decent job ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,542 Posted October 26, 2017 Choose who you get to do it carefully is my advice. Most "garages" will just wallop a nasty looking patch over the top then blather it in nasty black bitumen underseal. You are better off finding somewhere that does classic cars and will be able to do a neat job, butt in a piece and make it neat. Might cost you a bit more but worth it IMO Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dawning 11 Posted October 26, 2017 (edited) That's so much for all the input. I took it to the garage today, not one I've used before but they cater for classic cars. It's an old school place, nice to hear a Berkshire accent ! Anyway they quoted 150 to patch it up. I explained the I would like to do it how I think Tom is suggesting with a new lip going down to the wheel arch. They understood, but said it would mean taking the wing off and advised me to take it to a body shop. I would rather avoid having the wing off as I have read on the forums that it is a tricky job and the fact that they where not keen on doing it says a lot. He seemed to think I could get away with cleaning, treating the rust and then painting so maybe I can bodge it for the time being. Practice my welding and give it a go myself in future. Edited October 26, 2017 by dawning Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,542 Posted October 26, 2017 Hard to say without a photo but the wing should not need to be removed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leslie green 110 Posted October 26, 2017 (edited) I fixed similar rust on passenger side and while it might be easier with the wing off it isn't necessary ,plus taking the wings of on these is very risky as it may ripple if not very careful.I lapped the repair piece with a "joggler" so it is flush when looking from the top .Butt welding metal this thin is near impossible as once you grind it then it will be as thick as tinfoil and have about the same strength. I just need a piece of angled 1mm steel and a little piece for the vertical panel where it had just started to go ,I'm guessing yours is a bit worse ? 20170816_154224 by Leslie, on Flickr 20170818_151916 by Leslie, on Flickr Edited October 26, 2017 by Leslie green Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gaz205 50 Posted October 26, 2017 Where are you located? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dawning 11 Posted October 27, 2017 Leslie I would say mine is worse I think it needs cutting out to the edge of the strut tower and bit further down towards the headlight , not sure I entirely understand how you repaired it but it looks good ! Gaz, the car is in Reading but I'm in London most of the time, I can drive it for an MOT as long as its booked in so I there is some scope to travel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gaz205 50 Posted October 27, 2017 I think where I suggest is too far away unfortunately... If you plan on keeping the car, i would suggest save up and get all the bodywork and rust done in one visit. The inner wings may be one issue but as with most people's projects one thing leads to another. For the sake of getting it on the road then you can have the wings patched over but I think you'll regret it. Will it need exterior paint? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leslie green 110 Posted October 27, 2017 You can buy that pressing now up to the strut tower , Arie Pronk on facebook makes a range of panels search " EMPA Peugeot 205 and Renault 5 gt turbo parts" they look like they are 87 euro a side plus post going by a post on 21st october if you want to do it right .If it's further down towards the headlight then mine then yes the wing would need to come off to fix it properly , depends how far you want to go and how good a job you need. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dawning 11 Posted October 29, 2017 Gaz the paint on my car is terrible, but painting the whole car would cost way too much at the moment. One day hopefully will sort it all out but I dont want it to get worse Leslie that's really helpful thanks had a look for panels but didn't find any of those parts. Going to try and bodge it I think ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Telf 224 2 Cars Posted October 29, 2017 Post some pictures up so we can see how bad it is or isn't. I repaired both my inner wings pretty much identical to the pictures Leslie has posted in this thread. I think in total it cost me about £150 including metal paint sealant and a cutting disc. If you have any mates who can weld it shouldn't cost the earth and can look reasonable. I didnt remove the wings to do either side Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toolie72 67 1 Cars Posted October 29, 2017 Well you could just try and plate over it yourself Won’t last but will buy you “saving up time”, cutting outs the best but if you’re willing to try it, just do it (if it’s wrong, you’ve learnt) Tbh it’s how most of us learn And on the upside, if it’s not pretty-the bonnet covers it until you get better at it! If you haven’t ever made a mistake-you haven’t made anything Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,542 Posted October 29, 2017 Without a photo this thread is a bit pointless to be honest. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gaz205 50 Posted October 29, 2017 Gaz the paint on my car is terrible, but painting the whole car would cost way too much at the moment. One day hopefully will sort it all out but I dont want it to get worse Leslie that's really helpful thanks had a look for panels but didn't find any of those parts. Going to try and bodge it I think ! Get some photos up, there may very well be someone on here that will help you. If you bodge it I think you may regret it. Your welder will simply grind down your old metal and weld a piece of oversized steel over the holes. If you ever come to sell it or try and re fix the fix you will be spending more than if you do it now... If your inner wings have gone I'd expect rust in other places too. I'd say choose carefully, even if you do the prep and cutting out yourself. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dawning 11 Posted November 1, 2017 Thanks for all the replies, and sorry I should have got pictures up straight away, i have bodged it up and it passed the MOT! I am going to do it properly once I learn to weld. Will keep this thread updated, needs cutting out on both sides but I've got a few more jobs to do before I get round to it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites