Barn Find Laser Green 1.9 Gti.

[Leslie green 111]

Good idea Chris although mine has worn right through in a good few places due to vibration and oil contamination so for wire protection it needs replaced .Another job on the list !

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

The convoluted tube is really pretty cheap by the metre in a number of diameters. I buy it from Polevolt but there are plenty of places that sell it.

[Leslie green 111]

I was looking into it Tom and the Peugeot stuff on the museum site its rated to 175c whereas some on ebay was only around 100c some higher  .A lot of it isn't for car use .  It should in theory never get above a 100c coolant temp  and id need to sit down and see what I need as there appear to be 4 different diameters ,

Peugeot museum lists 9 , 19 and 26mm diameters (inner) which is 13, 24 and 32mm outer 

I measured 13 ( battery cable)  19 , 22 and 30mm but its not easy measured being split .

The museum stuff has a cool blue line in it which appeals to my ocd side but is more expensive and id only get it there if I was buying other bits as postage isn't cheap.

Edited October 24 by Leslie green

[Leslie green 111]

Bit of work on the exhaust the downpipe is not the right angle to join the manifold on the new system so I cut of the downpipe and fitted a genuine front pipe with the split inside I had ,It needed some repair but came out alright.As I didn't want to cut open the pipe I straightened the split then built it up with rows of weld  I joined it after reducer on the downpipe but with no straight pipe to align it it proved tricky , I had it on and off a few times tacking each time but it was worse each time so in the end I fitted it and used self tappers to hold it till I welded it. I expanded 20 mm of the end with a cheap expander tool so the downpipe fitted inside , this proved hard work and the largest one was about 1mm too big to fit inside the pipe at the start.

 

20241107_133228 by Leslie, on Flickr

 

20241107_145335 by Leslie, on Flickr

 

20241111_172117 by Leslie, on Flickr

[n0_b0dy_ce 1]

wow superb work

[Leslie green 111]

Thanks fitted today and shock back off to fit these new dust boots,still only one bas arrived, but can't decide what way they go again ,couldn't go either way and seem worse located than last ones .does the domed bit go up as there is no way to hold it up there ? This way up it will lock into topmount but looks wrong ...

Edited November 12 by Leslie green

[jord294 92]

Rod protector is upside down. Don't forget the large washer after you've slid bump stop over

[Leslie green 111]

Cheers  these are going to just float about as there is nothing to hold it , might just fit the others back on , the bump stops came with these are shorter so will use those .

Edited November 12 by Leslie green

[welshpug 1,662]

The bump stop holds them up.

[Leslie green 111]

Got one shock on and fitted the calipers ,cable tying the spring top coil to the spring plate till its fitted makes refiitting the springs much easier . I  had new guide pins for the calipers but noticed they are smaller diameter may be off a 1.6 maybe so fitted the originals , tried fitting one droplink but the nut on the anti roll bar end just spins as there is no flat to get a spanner on , other end has a flat and an allen hole .will put the ugga dugga on it later lol Got some new genuine discs years ago , little rust with storage which will clean off in use and some new wheel bolts ,amazing how many sellers on ebay are selling the wrong ones with the wide shank which wont go in a 205 alloy . I bought some used ones first but they were too rusty plus nearly every one was cross threaded .

 

The new pads have a wire sensor but I've nothing to attach it too and have no idea where it comes from but not a big deal at present.

 

20241113_141817 by Leslie, on Flickr

 

20241113_162833 by Leslie, on Flickr

Edited November 13 by Leslie green

[welshpug 1,662]

Pins won't be from a 1.6, they used a bendix caliper with very different sliders,   there does seem to be a variance in the pin diameter for the girling 1.9 calipers even though there's only one part number for the body and slider pins.

[Leslie green 111]

Thanks just one of those things with the pins , I've another issue fitted the droplinks for front antiroll bar and on lock both sides are catching the strut bolt ,at first i had the nut on the other side and thought that was the issue but its still catching . They seem to be same length as the originals so not sure whats up .

[welshpug 1,662]

i have seen this quite a few times, a washer or two between the droplink and the tab on the damper to space it out is usually enough, I think either the droplink tab is welded at the wrong angle or the locating tab.

 

 I have also seen the locator tab welded too low on the damper body making the damper not sit fully in the Hub carrier clamp, not a huge issue on the 205 hub carrier but the 96 on 306 had a hollow casting so the damper was only clamped by the upper section     after a decent impact the bottom of the damper bend and came out of the hub.

[Leslie green 111]

That's doesn't sound good about the 306, the dampers  seem to be sitting fully down the same amount each side on this  . I have one original droplink the tapered type but it looks well worn and it just tapers to the same diameter as these so its not the rod diameter is the issue  , most likely is these are not made quite right and a coupe of washers is an easy fix.

 

 

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

On 11/22/2024 at 7:28 PM, Leslie green said:

Thanks just one of those things with the pins , I've another issue fitted the droplinks for front antiroll bar and on lock both sides are catching the strut bolt ,at first i had the nut on the other side and thought that was the issue but its still catching . They seem to be same length as the originals so not sure whats up .

I think this sometimes is only an issue with the suspension at full droop eg car jacked up. Try spacing off with a washer or two, but I'd also put it on its wheels and try again.

[Leslie green 111]

Thanks Tom I used 3 washers, more than id like , to make it clear will see how to goes . Coolant filled , oil in , brakes bled today with pressure bleeder and pressurised it to 10 psi first to check for cap leakage before filling bottle  , all was going fine did the rears then fronts them went to do backs again and cap will spilling out brake fluid . Got the hose out and washed it off as it was dripping down the inner wing . Disaster 1 lol 

   Taking car of the axle stands at the front rear still on ramps  , I had a block of wood jamming the rear wheels but took it to use as a spacer to lift car and forgot and as I let it down it rolled forward down the ramps jamming the jack against the floor ,, got it held back before the car  hit the door luckily .Disaster 2 . Have knocked rear floor back down again and its not too bad few cracks in paint .

Temp sensor I put in new rad with new cooper washer is leaking , one of those days lol  Might try a fibre washer as I don't want to tighten it anymore incase I  bust the rad .

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

Ah man

 

I once had similar with a pressure bleeder, I now never put fluid in the extra bottle so it doesn't self feed, that way it can't blast brake fluid everywhere, you have to keep an eye on the level and top up instead.

[Leslie green 111]

I was watching yesterday and it fills the front first then the rear chamber slowly fills on the reservoir , I think it became a problem when the rear filled right up , good idea on leaving the bottle empty .

All hubs torqued up rears 215 nm , fronts 260nm , got a bigger torque wrench  up to 350nm was cheap on ebay ,put a battery on plus  terminal won't clamp up tight so put a thin piece of copper in for now and found the old screw on post for the negative , sure I have a new one somewhere as its a bit corroded.

Key in and plugs out the all happens in position 3 is interior lights go out , put a second big battery on and still not a movement nor a sound of a relay clicking , the interior lights going out as well as dash lights suggests to me the new starter is faulty ?, I know the copper pin was bent as it had been looked to have been dropped on it before I got it . If it was the plug of doom the dash lights wouldn't be going out when pos 3 on the key I'm thinking just nothing would happen.

 

Indicators only work on right side , sidelights don't work but I don't have a dip dim resitor fitted yet  , press the brake pedal interior light goes out lol I think there are a few electrical issues .

On a more positive note I took 2 damaged sunroof handles apart and made one decent one 

Edited December 5 by Leslie green

[Leslie green 111]

[Leslie green 111]

Got most of the lights to work now was the earth in pass rear 1/4 panel  I  only had 1 plate on it not 2 , some of the earths are 2 pieces and its a 5 pin connector, 

Jump lead from battery negative  down to gearbox to rule out an earth issue and still no turn over.

Noticed Coolant is leaking out between the head and inlet manifold and apparently there are  water outlets that are not used on Gti's so these need tapped and sealed up with a grub screw . I had a look at the genuine inlet gasket for sale and it looks like it has a silicon trace round the ports and waterways the non genuine ones don't have which would probably have helped. Looking at my pics I can see corrosion round those holes ,if id have known id have got the face skimmed but a bit late now unless it needs to come off. 

Drivers window works , passenger one nope but was working before taking car apart so hopefully will again, Rad fan works on both speeds when using test plug so all good .. baby steps lol

 

Edited December 6 by Leslie green

[Leslie green 111]

Inlet manifold off and the head looks ok but the manifold flange is quite corroded , can't be sure this is where its leaking but suspect it is so far . It wasn't leaking on the old engine but its was plastered in sealer and had no paper gasket from what I remember . I tapped the head to m8 after drilling to m7  and fitted some 12mm long m8 grub screws.I found some threadlock and used it , had used loctite 518 flange sealant first but it didn't set so cleaned it off again. Not sure whether to get another manifold or not they may all be as bad. 

     

I metered the 7 pin brown plug of doom and cleaned the contacts  and there is good contact from the far side of the plug to the starter solenoid so its not that , will check the starter soon if its ok I'm stuck lol 

[welshpug 1,662]

You will typically get continuity but with corrosion you'll have much higher resistance causing a voltage drop.

[Leslie green 111]

Thanks Welshpug I've metered it on.position 3 and 0 volts nothing at all, I've also put a wire from battery plus to solenoid and it spins over no problem so battery is fine.

My main concern is the dash lights go out in position 3 only ,they work fone in position 2 . Even the glove box light goes out and its not because of starter load as the starter isn't being engaged so its a position 3 only wiring fault or something isn't plugged in. 

I've disconnected the tachometric relay and it makes no difference , the fuel pump is unplugged as well.

I can feel a green relay click in and everything else appears to be dead.

I can't imagine there is that much in the position 3 circuit , even with 7 plug brown plug disconnected its the same .

 

[Leslie green 111]

Oh and to machineshop this morn and £100 to £120 to skim manifold ..ouch and can't do it till new year so on lookout for a good manifold but with the ports blocked off in the head no its probably fine anyway .

[welshpug 1,662]

a fibre gasket will seal on that fine, its quite unlikely its warped.