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krisdadude

205 For Dummies, Rust Brakes Smoke, My Project.

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krisdadude

Have just bought a 95 mardi gras 3 door gti lookalike.

Seems to have lots of rust looking at the rear undercarriage, beam, supports (no idea names of parts).

If anyone has a key diagram saying what is important and ok to rust a bit and defo dont drive it with that level of rist I would really appreciate it.

I have changed a few pads in my life but havent seen the 2 rod/wires that come with them and have no idea what they are.

http://images.lteplatform.com/images/products/600x600/101735007.jpg

If anyone could point me in the right direction I would really appreciate it

 

I have so many questions but first things first, should I be driving my car.

 

underneath the rear there is quite alot of flaky rust, breaking off etc, there seems to be a torsion bar then another beam that runs along or across the chassis.

 

Any replies would be greatly apprciated, little worried.

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Gaz205

I know it'll cost you £30 but take it for an Mot and they will point out exactly where you need to start or not start at all due to it being a lost cause.

Any rust within 30cm of a seatbelt mounting point or sructural support or mounting is dangerous.

 

it sounds like you would learn more by being stood underneath it and someone show you what to look for maybe thank someone trying to describe it?

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krisdadude

Im booked in to see an old relative on saturday so hopefully he can take me through a few things.

 

Just another quick question....

 

My brake lights arent working at all no light any ideas quick fix?

 

Thanks

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jackherer

if you look at the brake pedal there is a switch on it with two wires plugged into it. Unplug these two wires and connect them with a bit of wire or a paper clip or something. If the lights come on when you do that you need a new switch, if it doesn't work check the bulbs and fuses.

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krisdadude

Thanks that has made my life so much easier, quality!!

So the switch is fine, the bulb end is not, massive corrosion on the bulb contact thing after taking the bulb housing apart.

 

I did keep the lights on a bit too long tho obviously the battery went flat!!

 

Weird that both are not working though, i havent checked the other side for corrosion its just not working.

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Anthony

If this is a car that's been stood for a while, you'll often find bad connection on bulbs and wiring plugs. The wiring connectors is down to Peugeot using unsealed plugs and I'm guessing that the bulb issues are down to the light units not being very well sealed compared to many other cars. In regular use they don't tend to suffer.

 

Have just bought a 95 mardi gras 3 door gti lookalike.

Seems to have lots of rust looking at the rear undercarriage, beam, supports (no idea names of parts).

If anyone has a key diagram saying what is important and ok to rust a bit and defo dont drive it with that level of rist I would really appreciate it.

Without seeing a picture it's hard to say, but they can look a bit grotty under there although it's rarely worse than surface rust. The corners and rear edge of the boot floor can rust through and you'll likely find a rust spot either side under the rear seats in the corners, but it's not normally too bad - certainly compared to most other 80's era cars. The rear beam itself can look like it's lived in the sea, but normally cleans up fine and rare to see anything approaching structural rust.

 

I have changed a few pads in my life but havent seen the 2 rod/wires that come with them and have no idea what they are.

http://images.lteplatform.com/images/products/600x600/101735007.jpg

If anyone could point me in the right direction I would really appreciate it

Those wires that come with the pads are wear sensors - idea is that if the pads wear enough, the wear sensor will touch the disk and illuminate a light on the dash. You'll likely see a couple of wires on the strut tops that form the earth on that circuit, although they've been removed from many cars over years. There's also a couple of paper-clip looking things that should be fitted currently - they're anti-rattle springs for the pads.

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krisdadude

The pads I have dont have the clips, are the clips necessary? Or couod I take rhem off th old ones.

 

Just to note, the problem with the brakes was with the contact of the bulb circuit but then once that was cleaned and made a good contact I then found that the switch itself was sticking so pulled the switch in and out with snipe noise pliers and seemed to free what ever was sticking.

 

Now onto the rust, scraping, sanding, brushing and then painting.

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Anthony

Yes the anti-rattle clips can be re-used from the old pads. Otherwise, they come as part of a separate pad fitting kit along with a new pad retaining bar, clip etc.

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krisdadude

Just doing the pads now and the pads I have say 205 but look too small is there 2 types? sizes?

And.. how to you get the new pads on as they are so much thicker, any ideas how to get the rotor back?

 

205 Mardi Gras 1.8 Diesel

 

the pads that are on at the moment are alot bigger than the ones that I bought from eurocarparts, used the reg and everything looked right until I took the old ones off

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Tom Fenton

Not being funny. You don't seem to have the first clue. Leave the brakes to someone that knows what they are doing for now. Invest in a workshop manual. Do some reading and watch some videos on you tube.

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krisdadude

It is people like you that just dont get it! haha

I think I said the wrong name for the piston, not rotor, isnt that what they call the rubber thing on the metal thing that enables the four wheeled thing to move.

go and kick your cat instead of not helping me

 

Taking something apart and putting it back together is one of the most productive ways of learning how something works! I find it hard to describe what parts are.

 

Managed to get the pads off by using a clamp on the PISTON! hahaha they must be the wrong pads or if not, hopefully someone other than tom can point me in the right direction.

 

Eurocarparts says there the right ones.

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Tom Fenton

Great idea, learn by working on your brakes, you know the only thing that stops 1 ton of car from ploughing into anything in its path.

I'm all for folk learning, but the brakes are not the place to start.

I've also tried to point you in the right direction of how to learn, so I don't see the need for your attitude.

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krisdadude

Tom, just because I dont understand the name for things doesnt mean I am not capable.

Walking along the pavement is dangerous if you trip and fall into the road and get hit by a 1 tonne car.

 

Just bought this car and whilst putting the wheel back after knowing I had the wrongs pads (i think, as you are keeping your pad knowledge close to your chest!) that the wheel nuts the so called mechanic i bought car off are the wrong size and were so worn they were loose.

 

So luckily the extent of my knowledge was enough to know this, please dont worry about my lack of safety I am an engineer just not a car mechanic.

 

So Tom any idea on the pads? now we are aquainted.

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Gaz205

Is it possible to measure that pads?

Edited by Gaz205

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welshpug

never trust the part finders using reg number.

 

pictures tell all.

 

if the pads fit in the caliper then 99% chance they are the correct ones, if the replacement pads are thinner, they may be rear pads for a disc brake model...

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Gaz205

Euro parts often get the wrong parts even though their site says it's correct. I've had wrong O2 sensors, discs, and even gaskets from them.

I would suggest taking the old pad into Euro for comparison.

 

As an impartial person I don't think Tom was having a dig I think he was simply saying that brakes might not be the best trial and error start to fixing the car up. Pads aren't too hard but an £8 manual has helped me no end so is good advice once you find the correct pads.

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krisdadude

made a f.u didnt mean the size thickness wise was, I knew i need to compress the piston to get the new ones in, im really talking about the shape, they fit in the caliper as they are smaller but the old (current ones that are in, are bigger and a different shape.

 

Hope Im making sense there, and yes a workshop manual would be good I agree but this is about buying the right calipers

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Anthony

A picture paints a thousand words as they say...

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Gaz205

made a f.u didnt mean the size thickness wise was, I knew i need to compress the piston to get the new ones in, im really talking about the shape, they fit in the caliper as they are smaller but the old (current ones that are in, are bigger and a different shape.

 

Hope Im making sense there, and yes a workshop manual would be good I agree but this is about buying the right calipers

I thought you were buying pads?! If your old pad fitted then take it to a parts supplier for comparison. People are helping you here but you're questioning every single piece of advice offered. As long as they rest in the calliper top and bottom and have contact on the whole of the disc surface and you can wind your piston out enough to slide the pads in and get the correct travel through the pedal then you have the right ones.

A photo of your calliper and old pads may allow one of the experts to identify what car it's from and advise from there .

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krisdadude

Gaz im not trying to disrepect anybody, just asking for advice.

 

Appreciate the advice about eurocarparts il take a pic and take it too them.

these look similar to the pads on the car at present

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270486089717

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steve@cornwall

GTi lookalike? As in parts from a gti put on to upgrade another model? Personally I'd fit the GTi brakes so maybe that's what you have.

I would say it's your apparent lack of knowledge of method before taking tools to car brakes that has concerned Tom, not calling a part by the wrong name.

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krisdadude

Thanks for everyones advice really appreciate it.

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toolie72

Somebody's maybe changed complete struts to gti versions

Trial and error with an old car you don't know

Haynes manual/google/trawling through the brake pages on forum for pics might help you find what you've got

If in doubt-don't effing do it, just ask

 

Always worth taking the shagged part you've got to a factors/parts shop so you can check like for like

Enjoy

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steve@cornwall

Hi Kris. Just re read through and noticed the part about wheel nuts. Assume that being a gti lookalike it has gti wheels? If so it should not have nuts at all but bolts, with flat faces, not tapered. It sounds like you have going to need some good advice from people who know these cars inside out, and here is just the place. If you have a photohosting account such as photo bucket etc. I think it would be really worthwhile for you to post pics of the front strut/ brake/ wheel arrangement.

 

After nearly 35 years working on cars, 20 years on various 205s and owning quite a few ( present ones for 15, 20 and 1 year), doing a few "lookalike" projects including a 205 Griffe "homage" and different engine conversions, This is where i come for advice when something new rears up. You are just a click of the mouse away from information simply not available elsewhere in my experience.

 

Welcome to the community and be assured of the best advice available, (Bare in mind that members such as Tom are able to fabricate better than new components and could probably build a new car in their sleep, and are on here because they want to share their knowledge and ability with like minded enthusiasts )

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