Crankshaft Advise

[happypatrol 5]

Im in the process of rebuilding my 1.9 8v and having various issues. My original block was cracked. So swapping in a new one i bought on here a while back that has new pistons, and bearings etc. I stripped the engine down and removed the liners as the guy that rebuilt it previously said that he hadn't changed the liner seals. Im glad i did remove them now as the seals were shot.

 

The question i have now is the crank. It has some wear on the timing end of the main bearing. Now I've obviously never heard this engine run. So is this ok. Or should i be looking to swap this crank out. I have a crank from my original engine. Which isn't stripped as yet and might be worse, hopefully not. But if i change the crank i would need to bin those bearings and but a complete new set. Which i could do with out. Does anyone know roughly what they would cost? But firstly what do you think of my crankshaft???

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​Thanks

[happypatrol 5]

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[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

Doesn't look too bad from the photos but can't advise you from them alone. Can you feel any grooves with your finger nail across? The bearing shells would give you a better indication of ware. If it was me I'd get the crank reground and fit new oversized bearings if your going to the effort of rebuilding. It was about £5 per journal £45 (5 mains and 4 big ends) for a regrinding about 5 years ago so prices might have gone up. Full set of bearings including new thrust bearings were around £50. Don't do things by half's. It ill only cost time and money in the long term.

Edited March 12, 2017 by ALEX

[happypatrol 5]

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Doesn't look too bad from the photos but can't advise you from them alone. Can you feel any grooves with your finger nail across? The bearing shells would give you a better indication of ware. If it was me I'd get the crank reground and fit new oversized bearings if your going to the effort of rebuilding. It was about £5 per journal £45 (5 mains and 4 big ends) for a regrinding about 5 years ago so prices might have gone up. Full set of bearings including new thrust bearings were around £50. Don't do things by half's. It ill only cost time and money in the long term.

 

Doesn't look too bad from the photos but can't advise you from them alone. Can you feel any grooves with your finger nail across? The bearing shells would give you a better indication of ware. If it was me I'd get the crank reground and fit new oversized bearings if your going to the effort of rebuilding. It was about £5 per journal £45 (5 mains and 4 big ends) for a regrinding about 5 years ago so prices might have gone up. Full set of bearings including new thrust bearings were around £50. Don't do things by half's. It ill only cost time and money in the long term.

 

I have another crank which I've not yet stripped down. I will check that first and see if its any better than this one. If it is i will use it and buy another set of bearings. If not then yes i will look at having the crank re ground. Ive spent a lot of time and money so far so don't want to ruin it and have to strip it down again in 6 months.

There aren't any huge grooves but main bearing 1 is the most worn. Im just not sure how long it would last.

 

Where did you buy a set of bearings for £50. the cheapest I've seen them was £90 total for main and big end bearings.

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

If you can accurately measure (using a micrometer, nothing else is accurate enough) the crank journals then do so and then you can decide if they are within size tolerance for standard size shells, if the crank has previously been ground under size, or if it needs to be ground undersized now.

If you cannot measure it yourself then take it to an engine machine shop and get them to do it for you.

Anything else is wasting your time.

[happypatrol 5]

Cheers Tom. I will strip out this other crank from my cracked block first and see which is in the best condition and take it from there.

[happypatrol 5]

Stripped out my other crank from the original cracked block and it is in near perfect condition. Hardly a mark on it. To the point I'm now suspicious that its been reground. The car has done 145k. Unfortunately i don't have a micrometer but will take it to my local engineering shop and get a new set of bearings to suit and fit it to my new exchange block that i have sitting ready now.

Almost there but theres been curve balls all the way. Just really want this to run perfect and run for a long time without any hassle so its worth doing the extra now its all stripped. Im just glad I'm not counting what its costing anymore as i would probably give myself a slap.

 

Tonights question is this. Ive noticed the two engine s have different sized oil pump pulleys and chains. I have a brand new oil pump to go on but which crank and chain should i use. The longer one or the shorter one. Will it make any difference???

[happypatrol 5]

Oh and does anyone know why the later DFZ engine didn't have this plate under the oil pump but my original D6B engine did have this shim. Given now I'm using the DFZ block should i use this or not?

Edited March 17, 2017 by happypatrol

[happypatrol 5]

Anyone ?

[petert 588]

The need for the shim is determined by the oil pump drive sprocket size (and chain length on later engines).

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

How thick is the shim?

 

Should be obvious if it needs to go back in. It wont fit if the shim/packer isn't needed.

I don't think its required for the later design of pumps as I'm sure its included with the casting.

 

I asked how thick it was as I've seen a couple of times a thin tin shim (about 1mm thick). These must be to accommodate tolerances on the machining at the factory to get the correct chain tension. If you can fit it and the chain doesn't look too tight then put it back in.

 

Sprockets on the cranks different?

Never noticed this, thought they were all the same.

I'm guessing that Peugeot might have increased the number of teeth to speed up the pump. If this is true on the later engine, then fit that sprocket.

Trial fit the pump on the bench to determine what arrangement of chain and spacers you need.

Edited March 20, 2017 by ALEX

[happypatrol 5]

I'll measure it tonight

 

I guess the later design should be better. I'm pretty sure the chain had a fair bit of slack on it. On the block that didn't have a shim.

My original block with the shim the chain though shorter was much tighter. I guess as long as it's not too tight it loose it should be ok. If it's only purpose is to adjust the tension I will figure it out.

Just wasn't sure what it was actually there for.

 

My crank is at the machine shop being measured up for new bearings. I did t fancy getting that wrong after all the trouble I've went to.

[petert 588]

There are two thickness shims available.