Mi16 Sump Configuration

[TAG 25 1 Cars]

Hi all,

 

I am in the process of rebuilding an ally block mi16 for my 205.

The car is used for local autotests and gravel events at the moment, but I would like to road rally it in the near future.

 

Regarding the sump configuration, I am at a bit of a crossroads, and would like your opinions.

 

(1) - I have the mi16 ally sump, and a PTS style baffle for it, but I've been doing a bit of research here.

I can see fitting the 6 bar spring as an advantage, and I also have a complete XU7 here, so I could take the spring from that, as well as the chain cover. I could fit this to the Mi16 pump in the same way as philfingers has documented here a few years ago.

I would also look at making a pump baffle to suit the mi16 sump (opinions on if it's worthwhile fitting a trap door to this?)

 

(2) - Another option would be to fit the XU7 pump to the above setup. This has the advantage of the chain cover being bolt on. The XU7 gearing ratio is 1:1 looking at previous posts. I'm still mulling over if this would be an advantage or disadvantage on an engine known to struggle with oil starvation issues. Opinions please?

 

I plan on fitting a mechanical oil pressure gauge and warning light to keep an eye on oil pressure, but can I have peoples opinions on if these options would be sufficient for my needs?

 

(3) - The XU7 sump has the same (or at least similar) trapdoor system as the XU10 sumps, so I could go down the route of fitting that with the spacer plate, extended pickup, adapted windage tray, modified pump baffle. My only reluctance with this is proximity to the sump guard, as I've already had to space the back of the guard down 10-15mm to cope with the Gti6 engine currently fitted. I know that philfingers also had issues with this fitting the extended sump setup.

 

The car also has a 15row mocal cooler with thermostatic plate fitted.

 

As you can see, I'm at a bit of a crossroads, I could go ahead with the first or second setup, but then if I experience issues, it'll be a ballache to adapt to the third setup with the engine in the car, meaning engine back out again.

 

 

Any opinions on this would be much appreciated,

Thanks,

Tom

 

[Bakes100 20 1 Cars]

As a reference my 1.9 Mi16 setup is:

 

GTi6 Oil Pump & Spring

Chain Cover

PTS Style baffle

Standard spacer & alloy sump.

 

Before this setup the oil was quite badly aerated when drained now its not at all.

[petert 600]

If you can't extend the sump, add an accumulator.

[Tom Fenton 1,547]

Put a decent baffle in it. Works fine given the use on a road rally. The cornering is nothing like a circuit car sees. I personally don't like the PTS type baffle as its another joint to leak so I welded something into the sump.

[Bakes100 20 1 Cars]

Put a decent baffle in it. Works fine given the use on a road rally. The cornering is nothing like a circuit car sees. I personally don't like the PTS type baffle as its another joint to leak so I welded something into the sump.

 

Its fun trying to fit one with the engine installed in the car aswell

[mmt 15]

Winning formula:

Windage tray

6 bar spring

Trap door.

Accumulator

13 row oil cooler.

 

PTS Egg box baffle is NOT worth it.

[my3AWDgst 5 1 Cars]

Does any one have a part number for oil pump spring?

[TAG 25 1 Cars]

Hi Savo, the part number for the later uprated spring is 1157 11.

 

Thanks everyone for your input, I've decided to go the extended sump route,

 

Cheers,

Tom

[my3AWDgst 5 1 Cars]

Thank you.

[unariciflocos 49 1 Cars]

Had the 6 bar spring and a PTS baffle in mine, almost made things worse. I've since ditched the Mi16 and never want to see it again.

 

My conclusion is that it's all up to luck, some engines suffer from surge and some don't. If you're unlucky, then you need to find a solution to add more oil by extending the sump and the pump pickup, or add an accumulator.

 

Creating more flow in the pump will do nothing, either it will push more oil into the head causing it to starve faster, or it will be realeased back into the sump via the release valve (the one actuated by the spring). If anything, spinning the pump faster will make the problem worse.

[xy8 4]

It´s been discussed before but,how about canceling oil squirters , that´s what I would try if I had to rebuild another Mi16.

I did build cheap replacement engine using everything from my broken mi , only engine block (xu10j4r without squirters) , rods and pistons are different.

I have not seen oil pressure warning light in any corners since and I have 1.5 bar switch, I am sure switch works because I sometimes see it at idle when oil is too hot.

Edited February 13, 2017 by xy8