The Tw@t Overhaul... 205 Gti6

[NFS 32]

Hi

 

So I am back after a couple years out of the 205 scene, I have purchased a Miami Blue 205 Gti with a Gti6 engine from Silky from here and was previously TheOilBurner’s.

 

The car is in good condition, the bodywork being the biggest issue and I will be tackling that at some stage but for the foreseeable future the plan is to make sure it will last for the next 5-10 years.

 

I will let the pics do most of the talking but this is what is not pictured.

 

1. Fitted Bluetooth stereo to bring it up to the 21^st century
2. Replaced the 6x9 speakers with working set and wired them in
3. Fixed the dash front panel as one of the bits broke while I was driving.
4. Applied 10mm sound proofing to the inside of the doors and applied U-Pol Gravi-Guard to the bottom of the door skin to protect it from the water that enters the door. Applying it to the door skin makes a MASSIVE difference to how the car feels and makes it feel much more solid and modern, very much recommend and only costs £13 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112190988942?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
5. Stuck some of the sound proofing to the back of the standard thin carpet in the boot which also made a big difference to road noise
6. Unscrewed the dash parts and door speaks to fit slightly oversized screws to stop rattles. Which now I only have two rattles one in the head lining and one in the sunroof fixture.
7. Generally tidied up the carpet and washed the entire interior as I made a mess sanding back the boot.
8. Waxoly’d the entire chassis tubes

 

 

 

Started with the dreaded boot rust. Had the same issue on my last pug :@ for anyone who thinks the have a good boot I would strongly recommend re painting it so it stays that way. This didn’t look like a massive job but I found about 10x more than I was expecting.

 

 

 

 

 

Found the rear bumper supports completely rotted and surprised the rear bumper was even still on the car. Ordered replacements for SkyQuake. Another job ive done on my last pug.

 

 

 

 

 

Started the rust treatment. I did this about 3 times overall as I was sanding and every time I had to go out I would apply a good coating of Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 Rust Killer.

 

 

 

Then completely went to town on the boot and sanded nearly the entire thing back to bear metal.

 

 

 

 

Then made a start on patching up the holes in the boot, sadly no pics of the finished welds as it was pissing down with rain we were doing this outside. L

 

 

Also found this! Will require me to take the rear bumper off but its a lot bigger than the pic as I have already chiselled away at it and its about the size of my hand.

 

 

Once the welding was complete I applied primer while I was to grind the welds back and apply fiberglass, sand back and then paint in the original blue.

 

I cleaned up the car and orders some new mats which really set the car off.

 

 

 

 

 

Things left to do:

 

1. Drill the driver’s door hinges out and fit oversized 8mm roll pins as the driver’s door hinges are completely worn which makes the door drops a good few CM’s
2. Fix the two remaining rattles in the car
3. Fit a duel VSS sensor to stop the car hesitating below 1k RPM
4. Take rear bumper off and replace the rear bumper mounts and hole at the rear of the boot.
5. Completely under seal the underneath of the car.
6. Find a set of original seats and interior as I don’t like the grey and want the red back
7. Replace the snapped bolt in the rear ARB
8. Fix central locking
9. fix interior light
10. wire up driving lights
11. wire up rear wiper and rear screen heater.
12. Start on the body work………

 

I do have 1 question though, the car had this damaged when I got it, think its from the rear wheel but its an odd direction of the wheel to travel. Any ideas how this happened and how exactly people have tackled replacing this part of the body as its now rusted and beyond repairable.

 

Edited January 19, 2017 by NFS

[Anthony 1,003]

Missing bump stop on that side per chance? That's quite common damage if so, along with a worn away filler pipe (check this if you haven't already).

 

Rusty boot floors are getting more common, but I'm not sure how much painting will help - most of it from what I can see is rusting up from below, presumably from moisture getting into the seam between the two bits of metal in the corners. Rustproofing the underside would probably help in this instance more than paint from above (although damp sitting under the boot carpet hardly helps things either)

[welshpug 1,657]

I'd look at the same things Anthony suggested, it does look a touch low as well.

[NFS 32]

Missing bump stop on that side per chance? That's quite common damage if so, along with a worn away filler pipe (check this if you haven't already).

 

Rusty boot floors are getting more common, but I'm not sure how much painting will help - most of it from what I can see is rusting up from below, presumably from moisture getting into the seam between the two bits of metal in the corners. Rustproofing the underside would probably help in this instance more than paint from above (although damp sitting under the boot carpet hardly helps things either)

 

Not sure on the bump stops which check. i know the filler pipe is fine as ive have waxolyed behind it already.

 

yeah the underneath still needs attention but this was defo also being attacked from the top also. the main culprit was like you said was the gaps between the boot supports and the boot metal itself.

[NFS 32]

I'd look at the same things Anthony suggested, it does look a touch low as well.

Thanks i will do, have you seen anyone post up how they tackled the job to replacing the lower quater? I have some idea's but wanted to see what others have done so far.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

That rear cross member can hide allot of rust but with all that there I'd look under the fuel tank while your busy and under the rear seat base's plus the front edge of the rear seat base. Whats beams on the back? drums?

[NFS 32]

That rear cross member can hide allot of rust but with all that there I'd look under the fuel tank while your busy and under the rear seat base's plus the front edge of the rear seat base. Whats beams on the back? drums?

Under the seats and behind the fuel tank is already sorted but silky I just didn't post the pictures. Yeah they are drums on the back. Why did you ask?

[allye 530 3 Cars]

Can you expand on the door upol stuff and exactly where you applied? Also did you just use contact adhesive for the insulation in the Doors?

 

Good luck with it!

[NFS 32]

Can you expand on the door upol stuff and exactly where you applied? Also did you just use contact adhesive for the insulation in the Doors?

 

Good luck with it!

 

So firstly i cleaned the inside of the door with white spirit, once that dried i used the sound deadening in the link in the first post, its self-adhesive and sticks pretty well. i used whole sheets where i could and each door uses about 3.5 sheets to get a complete end to end lay which only a 2 inch gap at the bottom for the water to run down. at the bottom i firstly made sure it was clean and then used the U-Pol stone ship (link below) and applied a good thick coat to the bottom of the inside door, this will protect the door and also act as a sound deadener also. I will be using this stuff also for inside the rear quarter panel and under the roof liner.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201708020416?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[NFS 32]

So i have used this website that Griffo pointed me to. Only thing is im not sure if the interior is referring to the cloth or half leather Quartet?? anyone know?

 

http://205gti.info/vin/vin.htm

 

[welshpug 1,657]

1.6 would be cloth.

[NFS 32]

1.6 would be cloth.

Is that for definite? When the oil burner had it it has half leather versions. Thanks

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

All cloth unless ltd ed model or as a extra but I doubt many would go down that route, Beam has a different offset between the 1.6 and 1.9, how much I have never measured but the mounts are different I would hazard a guess at stopping this happening

[bluesleeper 3]

Miles, I know the stubs haft is different from the 1.6 to 1.9 is this the offset you mean, or the actual mounts are offset?

[NFS 32]

All cloth unless ltd ed model or as a extra but I doubt many would go down that route, Beam has a different offset between the 1.6 and 1.9, how much I have never measured but the mounts are different I would hazard a guess at stopping this happening

I suppose that would be in the vin number next to the other option extra's like sun roof and matalic paint? Also can you expand on the rear beam im not sure I'm following you correctly and I'm very intrigued. Thanks

[NFS 32]

one more thing ticked off the list.

 

the door hinges were badly wor, i bought oversized 8mm roll pins and even that where to small for the top hinge, but way to big for the bottom. so i drill the bottom out and it was a pigging nightmare, wish i never started it.

 

Old one

 

new one

 

bottom one (alittle battared as it was very tight)

 

 

and then for anyone that is interested, this is inside the drivers door with the 10mm sound proofing. this one is rough as i did it first but the passenger side looks much better as i used whole sheets instead of cutting the sheets.

 

[NFS 32]

So this weekend I have been trying to get my driving lights fitted that some of you have seen in the other post as I'm having trouble. I also swapped the wheels over so I can refurb then and fit some nankang Ns-2R tyres. I gave it a wash too.

 

While i was taking the wheels off I looked at the bumpstops as mentioned by a couple of members that this is why the rear quarter had been hit and low and behold there is no bumpstop and hasn't been for a very long time. As you can see in the pics below. The other side is pretty much corroded and ready to fall off. So I have ordered two more to replace them. Then work out how the hell I get the bolts out.

 

 

 

 

And a pic of the driving lights working. Not long before the fuse blew though haha

 

[Anthony 1,003]

Thought that would be the case.

 

Irwin bolt extractors are brilliant for removing the remains of the bump stop bolt. Try not to sheer it otherwise you'll be drilling it out which isn't a fun job.

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=152994&hl=%2Bbump+%2Bstop+%2Bbolt

[NFS 32]

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=152994&hl=%2Bbump+%2Bstop+%2Bbolt

 

Thanks for the guide, it will come in handy!!!!!!

 

Thought that would be the case.

 

Irwin bolt extractors are brilliant for removing the remains of the bump stop bolt. Try not to sheer it otherwise you'll be drilling it out which isn't a fun job.

 

Yeah i was surprised tbf. I have bought a set of Irwin extractors and a new set of bump stops for both sides as the other side is pretty bad aswell so might aswell do both. Thanks

[DBG 16]

Love the goodwood seats.

[NFS 32]

Love the goodwood seats.

They will be for sale when I can find a decent replacement

[NFS 32]

Bought a few things for the pug recently.

 

New genuine bump stops.

Irwin stud extractors.

6mm sound proofing for the rear quarters and roof

And these bad boys. Not sure if I will fit them or not yet.