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Andy

Crankshaft Oil Seal

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Andy

This is going to sound like a pathetic question but I will ask nevertheless . I assume that the crankshaft oil seal should be pressed into the housing until it is flush with the face of the housing. When I did this on my 8v engine I do not recall any real difficulty. Well, not this time. I have done this twice now and each time the seal has gone too far in, perhaps 3 mm below the housing face, and , to make things worse, I am not sure it is sitting squarely. I assume that if I press it right to the back of the housing, the lip of the seal will no ,longer be on the crankshaft flange. Any tips or advice her welcome as I skulk off to the dealers to get another seal!

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welshpug

guessing you mean rear, as in flywheel end.

 

 

flywheel end you can loosen the main cap and pull the bearing out, sump needs to be off and ideally replace the hockey stick seals too, but saves buying a new seal.

 

I wouldn't be buying them from a dealer, Payen aftermarket are much cheaper.


if you mean front, as in timing end, just unbolt the alloy housing and push it out.

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petert

You can position where ever you like, provided the lip is running on a clean surface. Old cranks usually have a wear mark which should be avoided. I turned up a tool from aluminium which ensures the seals sits perpendicular and a few mm in, avoiding the original groove.

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Andy

Thank you both. Sorry Welshpug, I did mean the flywheel end. As I now have the sump on, retrieving the seal will be a bit of a pain, but I can probably square up the seal as it is , given that it does not have to be flush with the front face. I can see the advantage on not getting the seal to run in the same position as before , although there was no noticeable wear ridge on my crank. As an aside, I did not realise that Payen did the crankshaft seals as separate items. I will check.

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Andy

For most reading this, what I am about to say will sound like I have solved a problem that does not exist. Anyway, I had a look on line for replacement crankshaft oil seals and came across a company called ' Simply Bearings' who, despite their name, do much more than bearings. They do a range of seals including ones that are designed for high temps and speeds, as required for automotive use. So, I bought a single lip Viton high temp seal with garter spring( i.e. One that looks like the Peugeot one) but 10 mm deep rather than the 6.5 one from Peugeot) . The reason for this is that on the new seal, the lip is 4.4mm inboard of the rear face of the seal. This is handy if one does not have the Petert shouldered drift because it means that if required, the seal can be fitted flush with the rear of the seal housing and still be running on the crank flange well inside the rearmost edge of the flange.

I know, just use an o.e one and be careful fitting it . Oh. There is an upside. Nearly £10 cheaper than the Peugeot one.

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B1ack_Mi16

Got any partnumber / specs for the 10mm wide one the?

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Andy

Yep. The seal is from 'simply bearings' ( www.simplybearings.co.uk)

The seal is a 90X110X10_SC_VI and is a 90x110x10mm SC /R21 single lip Viton rubber metric rotary shaft seal with garter spring

I checked with them and they confirmed that this standard of seal is suitable for high temp and high speed applications.

Very helpful people and the delivery is swift. I found that, because the seal is wider, it was easier to fit whilst keeping square . In the iend, I did not drift it quite ' home' although there is no real reason not to.

Andy

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Andy

That is the one, although the picture is generic!!

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