Mi16 Non Starter

[Edp 67 3 Cars]

So I had an issue with my 205 mi16. It was lurching and hunting once warmed up and becoming horrible to drive in normal conditions.

I thought I'd start with the cheap bits first and swapped out the dizzy cap and rotor arm. It seemed ok for a bit then broke down on me. Now it just refuses to start. It cranks over fine but never attempts to chug into life where before it would start in the first turn.

I've since replaced with new or known working items

 

Coil

Dizzy

Rotor arm

Ignition amp

 

I've had a plug out and there is no spark. I've looked at the 2 relays mentioned in other posts but unlike most conversions I routed mine inside the car so doubt these are at fault. The connections are clean and the relays click.

 

Any ideas?

[Edp 67 3 Cars]

Am I right in thinking the ecu and starter relays are green and brown?

Edited December 18, 2016 by Edp

[Anthony 1,003]

Assuming you're talking about the two on the engine loom then it's not a starter relay, but two green relays will do for testing purposes - either that or just temporarily link the two thicker wires on each with a couple of lengths of wire for testing purposes.

[Edp 67 3 Cars]

Thanks for the speedy reply!

 

Ok so I've linked out the two relays I think are the ones you are talking about. The green one has a wire numbered 76a and the brown one numbered 1a and 20.

 

When linked I can here the fuel pump whiring away.

 

Still no luck starting however.

 

Is there any definitive way of testing the dizzy cap and rotor arm? This is where the problem began and I think I'm chasing shadows looking at other parts of the ignition system...

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

One is the Fuel pump relay, other is the main ECU relay, Crank sensor OK?

[Edp 67 3 Cars]

Thanks miles.

 

That's one thing I don't have a spare for. Might have to pinch the one of the 309..

 

Watch this space.

[welshpug 1,657]

if you suspect the dizzy cap/rotor, check for spark from the coil.

 

first however check for power to the coil on ignition.

[Edp 67 3 Cars]

Would that stop a spark miles?

[Edp 67 3 Cars]

I've got a plug out, aimed at metal work and when turned over nothing..

 

How do I test power at the coil? Just with a multi meter on the pins?

[welshpug 1,657]

by aimed do you mean touching?

 

yep, you need a test light or meter.

[Edp 67 3 Cars]

Yeah touching

 

Ok so I've got the multi meter out.

 

I've tested the low ohms between ground and the main pin and it reads 7.2kohms

 

In voltage it have a fairly constant 13volts until I turn the key and then it drops to 11volts...

 

Not sure if that's ok or not..

[Edp 67 3 Cars]

I've just put the multimeter between ground and one of the parts me on the dizzy, nothing. Put the tester between the coil lead and ground and I get 13volts.

 

?

Edited December 18, 2016 by Edp

[welshpug 1,657]

its the coil supply you test, not the plug leads.

[Edp 67 3 Cars]

It's getting 13v when the ignition is on

[jackherer 543]

Was there any fuel on the spark plug you took out? If not I'd be looking at the crank sensor as Miles suggested. If you have one on another car it'll only take you about 30 seconds to swap it over.

[Edp 67 3 Cars]

Cheers boys, will have a go at this in the next day or two and report back.

[Edp 67 3 Cars]

One is the Fuel pump relay, other is the main ECU relay, Crank sensor OK?

 

Well done miles. I swapped the crank sensor for a known working one today and it fired first time. Christ it sounded like a sewing machine for a few minutes though until it warmed up.

 

Since ECU needs CPS signal to start the pump, I would disconnect fuel line and crank the engine. Fuel = ECU and CPS are working.

Then it's either ignition amp or coil.

 

I did this test last night and yep, no fuel or spark so you were right.

 

 

Cheers for all your help chaps. Much appreciated.