Won't Start- Fueling Issue?

[mowflow 67]

Some of you possibly saw and commented with advice on my Facebook post regarding my failed post rebuild engine start.

 

For anyone that managed to avoid my constant bumping of the post this is where things stand. The car is turning over, starter is fine (206 git one), battery brand new, plugs and leads all new and checked for spark, I've checked compression and I've got around 130psi on 1st and 4th and around 150psi on 2nd and 3rd (checked via plugs with a cheap screw in tester).

 

I can hear the fuel pump run and I disconnected the main feed to the fuel rail and fuel is definitely getting to that point. When I pull the spark plugs after turning over they seem to be dry and I can't see a fuel mist with them out and cranking over. Inside the car I can hear a sort of trickling sound which I thought was a leak but now think it could be fuel returning to the tank (?).

 

I'm not sure if I've got the injectors plugged in the right order (is there a way to tell?). The loom was reconditioned by Miles and I've checked the plugs to each injector with one of those node light kits. All flashed as the instructions say they should. The injectors were sent off, reconditioned and flow tested but this was probably about 2 years ago and they've been sat dry ever since.

 

So is there anything else obvious/easy to try or does it sound very much like the injectors or something else to do with the fuel is just not working?

 

Sorry for the length of this post. I want to give as much info as possible to hopefully get to the bottom of this. Been trying to solve it for what seems like weeks now, it's killing me.

[steve@cornwall 100]

Check connections a coil,do you have spark? Because maybe the ecu isn't being told the engine is turning. And tachy relay.

Injectors can be used in any order as they batch fire all a the same time

[mowflow 67]

Yes, I've got sparks on each plug (pulled them and checked against a bolt on the head). I'd imagine this means the coil is ok?

 

Good to know that the plugs to the injectors don't need to be in any particular order. One less avenue I need to investigate.

[Tom Fenton 1,548]

Give it some easy start direct into open throttle whilst cranking, you'll need a helper. If it fires then you know that the basics (and ignition) are correct.

[mowflow 67]

I squirted a load (ooer) of carb cleaner into the bolt hole in the side of the inlet (billy no mates so I don't have the luxury of a helper).

 

First attempt I never put the bolt back so just got a gun shot and small flame flying out that hole. Second time i put the bolt back and I got a little cough/catch/fire through the exhaust.

[Tom Fenton 1,548]

Take hose off put it in through throttle body.

[Juttie205 123 2 Cars]

Tachometric relay i had same fault but injectors did not fire linked relay out and it started new relay fitted all good.

[DamirGTI 344]

Check the injector ground wires , they're usually grounded on the bottom of the head on the corner near thermostat housing .. sometimes when doing a HG or removing the head for engine rebuild people forget to fasten the earth wires back on the head .

 

D

[welshpug 1,666]

injectors are grounded by the ecu, there isn't a ground point in the loom for them, they get 12v from the tachymetric relay.

 

ground point for the engine loom is on the top of the transmission, given there is spark I doubt there's a problem with that.

[DamirGTI 344]

Correct ! forgotten about that ..

 

But there is some (three if i remember) engine loom ground wires which connects onto the head .

 

D

[Juttie205 123 2 Cars]

Check to see if your injectors are losing 12v on turn over as mine were not changed tachometric relay as i said before and it all worked.

[mowflow 67]

So just to clarify, it does cough a bit of life with carb cleaner sprayed into the inlet/throttle when being turned over.

 

I've got no earth going to the head that I remember. 2 earths going to the gearbox, 2 earths on the headlight panel and an earth on the inner wing. Any others I need or should check?

 

How do I check the injectors are losing 12v? My electrical knowledge and abilities are hopeless.

 

I had thought the injectors were knackered but seems too far a stretch that all 4 would be knackered.

[welshpug 1,666]

I've never seen any earths to an xu head.

[mowflow 67]

No idea how if this was right, I followed some guys video on YouTube.

 

Stuck a multimeter across each injector (injector loom disconnected from them obviously). Set the multimeter to 200ohms and checked each one. Got a reading of 16.5 on each one.

 

Think I said before the I already checked the injector loom with one of those plug in node lights and it flashed as the instructions said it should.

 

What now? Replace the tachometeric relay? Worth checking or replacing the fuel pump? Fuel pressure regulator? Anything else? I'm totally stumped and quite frankly feel like torching the bloody thing.

[welshpug 1,666]

check for 12v at the fuel pump.

 

given you have spark, which in itself triggers the ecu to ground the injectors and open them, which you have confirmed with the noid lights, that's the last port of call.

[mowflow 67]

Well I have 12v at the fuel pump connection.

 

I thought I'd solved it tonight. Found the fuel line feeding into the bottom of the fuel filter was kinked against the big brake booster thingy.

 

Turns out that didn't solve it. I've ran out of swear words.

Edited October 27, 2016 by mowflow

[DamirGTI 344]

Pinch the return fuel line with pliers in order to create high pressure within the system .. then try cranking/starting .

 

D

[toolie72 67 1 Cars]

If its cranking and fuels running your plugs would be wet-if they're bone dry it's got to be fuel related ie none

Is pump running? 12 volts at pump doesn't mean it's doing anything, lid on the relay can be prised off if your careful to check if it's burnt

 

Simple test-crank it, then crack open hose on fuel rail-it should be under pressure and pi&s everywhere lol

[Juttie205 123 2 Cars]

You have got fuel pipes right way round.

[mowflow 67]

The plugs are definitely bone dry after cranking. I can hear a noise from the fuel pump and I can hear a trickling when I leave the ignition on after cranking. I assume this is fuel dripping back into the tank.

 

Before I tried the first start I cranked over with the fuel rail line off and fuel did come through. Can't remember if it was a gush or a trickle.

 

I'm going to try what Damir suggested, then I'm going to double check lines are the right way, then I'm going to cry for a while, stare at the ground and wonder how much money I could get for the parts, before retiring to the house to shout at the wife and kids, sulk for a bit then no doubt order a new relay, new fuel pump, new fuel line and a pressure regulator. Got to love this hobby (should have taken up golf).

[steve@cornwall 100]

You really should release the fuel line from the rail and crank to make sure the fuel is getting pumped, there is no mistaking delivery, should come out with some pressure. If yo have spark and the node light flashes as it should as the engine cranks, then that should confirm that the injectors are being told to open and close. Of course if there's no fuel in the rail they can operate until the cows come home and not start!

[mowflow 67]

Released the fuel line from the rail again today and fuel is definitely getting pumped. Tried clamping the return to increase pressure. Still no joy. The spark plugs still seem to be dry when I pulled one and touched the electrode to my lip.

 

Absolutely baffled.

[Tom Fenton 1,548]

Remove injector rail crank engine see if injectors are firing.

[Juttie205 123 2 Cars]

Have you tried linking the tachometric relay out as you have exactly same fault as i had and it worked for me.

[mowflow 67]

What do you mean linking it out Justin?

 

Sounds a good idea Tom. Think I've exhausted all possible quick fixes and it's time to start pulling things apart again.

 

I really appreciate all the suggestions, advice and input from everyone.