[Car_Upgrade] Yet Another Mi16 1.9 Build

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

A bit more engine progress, to the point that it is just about ready to go in to the car. If only the car were ready too, but I still have lots to do there before an engine and box find their way into the bay. However, all the glass is in so dash wiring is next on the list, and then it really will begin to look like a car

[JamPug 22]

Looks unreal ????

[Shane17 7 1 Cars]

Awesome job Andy! That looks very tidy and well put together I can't wait to see the car come along now as well.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Thank you. Hope it runs without drama! Work on the wiring underneath the dashboard began today. As I am using a K6 ecu I have some alterations to do, but they are not dramatic. I am not quite sure where to position the ecu. I do not really want to put it where the original jetronic ecu was located as I am not keen with the loom exiting the bulkhead close to the exhaust system. The glovebox is an option but the proximity of the fuseboard and the plethora of wires does not make that an easy option either. I need to check what others have done !

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

A coupe of random shots of the car with glass and one of the inside with the dash beginning to find itself a more suitable home than the loft.

[petert 588]

I'd put the ECU in the original spot. Run the loom up, through, over the steering column, up under the dash and enter the engine bay behind the fuse panel.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Ah. Not thought of that one. Neat idea .

Cheers.

Andy

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

I have not posted for a few days but have made a bit more progress. Lights and indicators installed . I then hooked up a battery charger to check that things work. So far, side, head, indicators, central locking, front and rear wash/ wipe all operational . Not checked the driving / fog lamps nor the number plate lamps but I think they will be o.k. I have a small snag with the instrument illumination which I think may be caused by a fault on the heater control panel, but not sure so I will get out the multimeter again and crack on with the fault finding . If I disconnect the plug to the heater panel and run a wire from the dimmer control to the insrument panel supply I get panel lights. Plug in the heater control and the fuse blows. There will be a solution . The other job includes putting a new feed to the tachometer as it will be triggered from the Emerald K6 . When I have made a bit more progress I will post a few more photographs

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

At long last, my car has returned from the body shop and is now at home in my ( rather compact) garage. I have been getting on with a bit of fitting out, sounding deadening in the boot , sorting the boot battery box and power cable and the power cable for the epas steering column. Progress I guess, but it is slow

Edited February 26, 2017 by Andy

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

A little more progress. This time , some fitting out of the boot with new linings on the wheel arch panels. For the trim panels, I managed to get new trim clips. Those, and a combination of draughty excluder strip, so spongy double sides tape and some more of the cloth I used on the wheel arches, the trim slotted back into place. I hope that the extra care will help reduce squeaks and rattles . As for the dreaded three quarter window seals, very hot water and judicious stretching has got them fitting snugly, but for how long remains to be seen.

[allye 530 3 Cars]

Looks factory fresh, what material did you use for the black stuff?

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

It is quite close to the original material. I happened on a roll of it at a kit car show last year on a car upholstery stall . It is a felt material that is 3 mm thick designed for lining boot and luggage spaces. Like the original, it looks nice though I suspect it is not very hard wearing. Luckily, where it is should not see it getting too much wear. It is very handy for putting underneath trim panels as it provides a thin layer of cushioning, a bit of sound deadening and , because it is so easy to stretch, fits over compound curves without too much drama

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

A little more progress on the interior and a slight backward step on the engine bay.

All the interior trim is now in place save the side panels and the tailgate cover . They will not go back for ages as I have lots of cavity wax injection to do and I do not want to start that until everything is built up and functioning. As with the other trim bits, I used some more of the boot lining felt to line the inside or the trim and a bit of padded double sided tape in the critical places. Under the carpet went £150 worth of sound deadening and some ordinary carpet underlay . The carpet itself came up well after a very serious meeting between it, me , buckets of hot water, a scrubbing brush and well over half a packet of washing powder.

As for the engine bay, the power rack has been evicted , to be replaced by a depowered Xsara vts one and an epas column courtesy of a company called ' power steering solutions ' who are based in South Wales. You send them a 205 upper column and some cash and they send you back, three weeks later , your column with an electric motor, an ecu , torque sensors , all fitted and wired . Actually, the ' send you back ' bit hasn't quite happened yet but I am assured that it is imminent

On the engine front, the coil in plug ignition is now sorted thanks very much to PeterT's help and advice.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

A bit more progress. Xsara vts rack stripped, cleaned, painted and re installed. Epas column due tomorrow as is a lower column with a square drive . Battery box fixed in the boot , and power to the column laid in . Now working on ecu location along with a new fuse / distribution box for the ecu and a set of four relays

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Bit more of an update. My epas column arrived yesterday so I spent a happy few hours adapting the upper column mounting to take the epas column and then a couple more hours mounting the epas ecu in such a way that the trim panels will still fit .. As an addition , my latest attempt to create some order around what is the chaos of the fuse box wiring.

[barneys66 123 1 Cars]

Looks amazing!

 

Ref the column - do the torque sensors mean it's speed sensitive somehow..?

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Morning,

No, it relies just on torque. The corsa system used speed, engine rpm and torque but from what I have gathered was not altogether successful . The level of assistance is driver adjustable ( a small potentiometer mounted somewhere inconspicuous) and from the feedback I have had from people who have used this system on rally cars, can be adjusted by a considerable amount, to the point of almost no assistance at all. For me, the proof of the pudding will, as they say, be in the eating. I have to hope that it will not turn out to be an expensive failed experiment, but I am sure that it won't. I think that someone else on here( Juttie) put an epas system in his Dimma rebuild and then removed it as the motor got in the way of the Bosch engine ecu. Certainly there is no way that the standard 205 ecu would fit in its original position with this column in place, but that was not a constraint for me.

Just got the lower column to persuade back into,place, a couple of earths and an ignition live to sort and I will be able to see if the system works!!

Andy

[GilesW 41]

I used a corsa column on my last track car.

It has a torque sensor on it and a speed signal input (pulse) which I took off my abs.

[barneys66 123 1 Cars]

Thanks for that - I dropped off my 205 to (Retro Rides) Dez's place, to have my seats lowered, and we were discussing Corsa EPAS there.

 

I've got a Xsara / 106 set up in my 205, but have been thinking of EPAS for my Mustang, and Dez had installed one succesfully in a 67. He said the same - a bulky unit mostly tucked out of the way if sufficient clearance, and a potentiometer to control resistance.

 

Looking forward to hearing how you get on with it.

 

Giles - how well did your set up work..?

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

I too am looking forward to finding out how well it works and would be interested to know how well Giles got on with his Corsa system

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

I have spent what seems like days making additions to the wiring( all self-inflicted ) to accommodate my epas steering, Emerald ECU and associated relays and supply for the fuse box. I will explain, but the photographs probably say most of it.

Right, battery in the boot so the first job was to lay in the supply and arrange for a junction box so that I could feed the power steering, the fuse box( the fuse/junction box that used to reside on the slam panel is no more) and the ecu and its associated relays, which include the fan, fuel pump, injectors and ignition coils. For the ecu feed itself, I used the spare relay slot on the board and used the switched feed from the third pin in slot 'X' to power up the ecu.

The power steering supply is via a 50A fuse, the fuse box via. 70A and the ecu relays a 60A. The latter are also fused independently, just like the fuse box. I think my feeds to the separate fuse are probably a bit over the top, but I had the cable , so why not. The ECU location is not absolutely brilliant. I was going to follow a suggestion made by PeterT and place it where the original Jetronic one was and run the loom across the car and out near the fuse box. Slight snag with that plan appeared when I put in the epas column as the motor got in the way of where the original ecu would have been and the other possible location near there is occupied by the epas ecu. ( By the way, epas up and running. The adjustment is very wide , from almost no assistance at all to absolutely shed loads, in twelve easy stages. No idea what it is like on the road, but I will find out one day)

Anyway, ecu is where it is. It will remain dry there and , as it is on isolation bobbins, should get a reasonable ride, if not a slightly warm one . The up side is that the relay are close by , as is the engine, so when I get to make up that part of the loom, I will not need miles of wire.

One other thing I had to allow for was all the instrumentation wiring which was originally part of the o.e engine loom. I separated the nine wires that variously go to the starter, the alternator and all the engine senders bar the ecu WTS and terminated them with three plugs, into which plugs in a new loom that goes to said devices .

Anyway, photographs below.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Almost forget the extra wiring woes. I had just finished checking that all the systems were working and started to fit the dashboard, feeling quite pleased with myself when I noticed a stray red wire coming from one of the instrument panel edge connectors. Dashboard extracted and it quickly became clear that the wires going to the yellow connector on the instrument binnacle were on a bid for freedom. Odd connector this one, as it is not the same as the other three. For the others, each wire is crimped onto a 90 degree 'flag' connector. On the yellow one, no such thing. Here, each wire is held in a sharp fork, rather like the ones found in those horrible 'scotchlock' connectors available in Halfrauds. So no crimping. Immediately after the fork, each wire then does a sharp 90degree bend before exiting the connector. Cue failure at the 90 bend. Anyway, all bar one wire broke away very easily, so I cut my losses, cut the last one a took the connector to the bench for closer examination.

Solution was to remove each connection, clean with flux and tin. Then solder on a short piece of appropriately coloured wire( except for pink, did not have any somit is orange) and connect back into the original wiring via a small soldered joint and heatshrink. What is really odd is that Peugeot chose to use a different connection method for that one yellow edge connector compared to the other three. They must have had a reason, although it is not obvious to me.

One and a half hours of extra work later, I was back fitting the dash into position .

Joy!

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

At last. Engine and box installed . Feels like a real milestone has been reached . If you see the photographs Peter and wonder about the Ford coilpack, that is a leftover from when I bought all my stuff( bodies, K6, sensors, linkages and coil) from Emerald nearly a year ago . Until quite recently, I had planned to use it and the bespoke leads I have, but now I will wire the COP so the coilpack and its bracket will go.

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Great stuff Andy. Reminds me very much of doing mine, only you've done an almost concourse job on EVERYTHING! Huge respect.

 

Hope my top tip about blow-torching the exhaust manifold head flange once it's fitted to the head proves useful, specifically if you're using Loctite 5920 sealant. This is to ensure the 5920 expands and seals if there won't be decent heat running through it for a while. If you don't you could end up with an exhaust blow.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Yes. Thanks for the locktite tip. I would never have given that a second though and just gone ahead and bolted the manifold and wedge plate up without thinking about the heat curing