[Car_Upgrade] Yet Another Mi16 1.9 Build

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Another attempt at a photo upload

[jackherer 543]

It's a bit small!

 

Looks good from what I can see, very neat.

 

Make sure your expansion tank is in good condition though, I've had one develop a pinhole leak before and it shot coolant straight into the horn relay which kept powering the horn. We were on a trackday at the time and the marshals thought we'd lost our minds.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Hi. Very small. I have so little space left allocated to upload photographs that it had to be that small. As for the header tank, I have a BBM alloy one ( which does not make it immune to failure but less likely) but I agree, a leak from the tank would give all my relays a really good watering . I might just relocate it a bit further along the bulkhead. Should have thought about that really before I painted 

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Forgot to add, SPA dash ordered! 

[petert 588]

That happened to me a while back. I wrote to admin and suggested I could go back through my old posts and delete the pictures. They increased my space allowance instead.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Neat. I will try that . How is riding in 50degrees ?

 Andy

 

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Wiseco pistons arrived on Tuesday so I can finally crack on with my engine build. In the meantime, some progress in the engine bay and an experiment with dual master cylinders, balance bar and no servo. I have modified the brake pedal to give a 6:1  ratio and used 0.625” front M/C and 0.7” rear . I am not sure I will have enough displacement for the front, but will install the struts, hubs and brakes and see if it works.

[petert 588]

Nice work as always. Brake M/C size all depends on what size slave cylinders you're using. I run 0.625 and 0.7 and it works fine.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Hi Peter. Hope you are well. Rear caliper are standard ( 30mm I think) Fronts are much bigger 6 pots with 28/32/36 mm pistons . Displacement wise, I  have calculated that 11mm or piston travel in the MC ( front) should bring the brake pistons hard onto the disc, assuming 0.25mm clearance between pad and disc. I am keen to keep the front MC bore size down as low as I can to keep the pedal effort reasonable . 

Andy

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Real progress on the brakes. Hubs and callipers dropped  on , hydraulic lines connected and the moment of truth...... To my surprise, after bleeding  ( which took and age ) the pedal travel is not excessive. In fact, it is almost exactly as I had calculated, but based on an assumption about the running  clearance between pad and disc . So, 0.625” front and 0.7” rear master cylinder bore with standard rear calipers and six pots on the front ( 28/32/36mm ) seems to give reasonable travel on a 6:1 pedal ratio. What they fee like on the road I will not find out for a few months yet, but for anyone else who is considering a pedal box with a bias bar , the sizes I have used are a fair starting point .If the pedal effort turns out to be  a bit on the high side, I could  get away with a 0.6” bore  front M/C  to up the line pressure by 8.5%

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

I got sidetracked by the lure of a phase 2 xzara 2.6 turns rack, which will arrive this lunchtime . I will need to change the arms for 205 ones but a bit reluctant to take them from my 205 rack as I could easily put the ram back on and keep the  205 power rack as a complete item, in case it is of use to others. I assume that all 205 racks have the same length and type of arm, so any old 205 rack would do to donate arms .

Rods and pistons away being balanced . We he ever start building the damn thing ? 

[petert 588]

Buy new arms. They aren't expensive and you'll never regret it.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Hi Peter,

 Tom gave me the same advice yesterday. Found a set on eBay and should be with me next week. Rack stripped, cleaned and reassembled ready for new arms, boots and rod ends . I had to take the u.j. from the Xsara lower column and graft it onto the 205 lower column. Bit of a fiddle with the u.j. Cups but it all worked in the end .

Race day today. Snowing at the moment but I am sure it will clear up by this afternoon!!!!!!!

Regards

 Andy

[wicked 103 3 Cars]

I think you have the non-PAS boot at the offside on the picture above.

Should be OEM 4066.16 

Use OEM peugeot if you order that one. The pattern ones don't clamp that good. (imho)

 

And check the length of the arms you receive; once I had to order 5 (!!) arms at a local shop, to get 2 arms of the correct length (Moog). All same number on the box. 

 

Edited March 11, 2019 by wicked

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Agreed.That is the 205 power rack that clearly had an  aftermarket boot fitted over the ball joint cover .

Andy

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

One cleaned, stripped and rebuilt Xsara rack later, complete with £30 worth of steering arms and track rod ends .

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Rack on. Wings repainted and back on and some lights nailed in . Oh, and the start or a fuel system . It moves slowly but progress is being made .

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Auto bonnet back from the bodyshop. Holes cut for the aero catches and the air vent . Now I have to mark and fit the pins for  the catches to finish the job off. Gas strut to replace the original bonnet stay as the latter was I. The way of my fuel filter system ( well, the pipes anyway when they go to and from the fuel rail. Aero catches as the slam panel may well get compromised when I fit my Satchel inlet , bodies , air trumpets  and filter . The catch pin retention plates are extra brackets as I did not want to compromise the strength of the front of the bonnet by cutting holes in the strengthening rail that supports the underside of the bonnet front .

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

After some faffing about with SPA that came to nought, my Stack dash arrived this afternoon. I had already made the mounting template  so the relevant bits are mostly in the new panel, bar three warning lights. There is still lots of wiring and sensor location to do, but at least it is more progress.

 

[jackherer 543]

That looks good, nicely done.

 

I'm surprised SPA didn't want to take your money but you can't go wrong with Stack.

[petert 588]

Looks great. Does the stack display speed? You might get bored looking at AFR's. You couldn't add that as a channel to the Stack?

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

I ordered and paid for a SPA unit. When nearly three months later they could still not say when the unit would be ready, I decided to look elsewhere. 

Yes Peter, speed is displayed on the digital readout along with a choice of other parameters that are easy to look at and change . My ecu monitors o2 and has adaptive mapping if I choose to enable it, so the lambda gauge is surplus to needs in one sense . Any yes, the Stack can take a Lambda input too , so overkill on my part. However, the hole in the dash is a standard 52mm so I could swap out the lambda gauge with something more useful, and then sellthe gauge with its probe 

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

More electricery . All the relevant wires from the original instrumentation I’ve identified and the rest tucked away behind the dash. The four switches on the right vent are for the Stack display control, including lap timer/ reset, digital page display change and set up function. The appeal of this dash is that these controls are not on the actual dash, as with most other digital dash units . Access to the switches is now nice and easy , rather than trying to negotiate a switch via the steering wheel and  stalks . And if anyone is wondering why I made a small panel to mount the four switches on, it is because the right vent had been home to an alarm switch, light etc that a previous owner had fitted. Consequence was that the bottom of the vent looked like a Swiss cheese , hence the panel. A pristine one of these would have allowed me to mount the switches directly, which would have been neater . Anyway, onwards. Just waiting for the two indicated lamps to arrive ( back order from Car Builder Solutions ) and I can complete  the dash 

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Dash installed , wired and coupled to sensors, including the tank level sensor . And everything’s works which is even better. The speed sensor is a neat bit of kit but took some installing in the hub, using the wheel studs as the sensor trigger . I made a small mounting plate and welded it to the caliper mounting bracket 

[petert 588]

Are you using the speed sensor for the electric steering?