Another Mi16 Conversion

[Nbettley 4]

Hi guys,

I have started stripping back the old 205 ready for a bit of a tidy up and some paint before the new engine goes in -

 

 

Didn't want to bore anyone with pictures of general strip down and engine removal so thought id start from now.

 

Was all going well until the captive nut went where the Drivers side front subframe mounting point is, managed to cut the nut off to drop the subframe but ill have to address this at some point. Was planning on just cutting the bottom face off and creating a new metal plate with a nut welded on the back in the original place, unless anyone else can recommend a simple straight forward fix?? picture below -

 

Another area of concern be came apparent when I took the scuttle panel and windscreen out. Rust at the bottom of the windscreen aperture right in the centre, must have been gathering water here for years. Again dont know if anyone has dealt with this could give me some advice -

 

 

Thanks

 

Nick

Edited September 18, 2016 by Nbettley

[welshpug 1,657]

no need to weld a nut in, just replace the captive nut.

[Nbettley 4]

What do you mean when you say replace the captive nut? Is there something available off the shelf?

[welshpug 1,657]

yeah, just an m10 caged nut, same part was used on much newer psa vehicles so you shouldn't have any issues getting them.

[Nbettley 4]

Ahh right I see, I might see if I can cut a section out of the side and get some access to the back of the panel.

[Nbettley 4]

Also has anybody had any experience with the below front end panels?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331886444051

Edited September 18, 2016 by Nbettley

[JamPug 22]

I had the same problem with mine and managed to pull what was left of the old nut out with some pliers. Then bought a new one for a couple of quid from Peugeot. They're like a square nut that's just smaller then the width of the square hole, then has a tail that doesn't go through the hole that locks it in place and stops it turning.

 

Hope that has helped

[Nbettley 4]

Cheers mate I'll see if I can wiggle it out tomorrow, just hope there wasn't alot of thread on the bolt as might make it tight.

 

Do these look like the bad boys?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321505706145

[Alan77 78 1 Cars]

Also has anybody had any experience with the below front end panels?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331886444051

You can get those aftermarket front panels from Euro Car Parts for about £65. I've got one as a spare so can't comment on fitment yet, but others have used them without too many issues.

[welshpug 1,657]

6941 81, £2 from a dealer, no need to buy 4 for £12!

[petert 586]

What does the inside of that inlet manifold look like? A friend of mine bought one from a well known UK dealer. It had a very sharp kink like yours and was full of weld penetration on the inside. I had to cut it apart, restore the original radius and the clean up inside.

[Nbettley 4]

You can get those aftermarket front panels from Euro Car Parts for about £65. I've got one as a spare so can't comment on fitment yet, but others have used them without too many issues.

Thanks mates, my give one a whirl then. I'll let you know how it goes.

[Nbettley 4]

What does the inside of that inlet manifold look like? A friend of mine bought one from a well known UK dealer. It had a very sharp kink like yours and was full of weld penetration on the inside. I had to cut it apart, restore the original radius and the clean up inside.

First thing I did when I stripped it down. In all fairness it looked pretty good, obviously it wasn't as smooth as non welded inlet but can't see it causing to much bother. Thought I'll try it as it is because it's only a casual weekends work to rectify it at a later date if necessary.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

I changed my headlight panels, and if I was to do it again I'd keep what I could of original headlight panels and replace the rusty parts only, (assuming the rot is from below headlight downwards), using sections from a new panel.

 

Or if possible I'd cut from below headlights or bumper bars and replace the full lower section.

[barneys66 122 1 Cars]

First thing I did when I stripped it down. In all fairness it looked pretty good, obviously it wasn't as smooth as non welded inlet but can't see it causing to much bother. Thought I'll try it as it is because it's only a casual weekends work to rectify it at a later date if necessary.

 

This vid is quite interesting on effects of kinked / bashed headers on V8s - not sure if the same applies here..?

 

[Nbettley 4]

That's very interesting, I would have assumed it would have choked it up big time. Think the results would be different on a turbocharged engine. The fundamentals for flow should be the same between inlet and exhaust so that makes me pretty confident there will be negligible performance loss..... famous last words!

[Nbettley 4]

Further update on the subframe mounting point repair. I made two cuts in the chassis and bent it back to gain access to the back of the cage nut.

 

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Pulled two and a half old cage nuts out of the box section where someone had previously had a shot at it.

 

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After that I just put a bit of grease on the nut and knocked it back flush ready to weld up.

 

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Edited September 20, 2016 by Nbettley

[Nbettley 4]

Long time since the last update,

 

Front panel and inner wings were nakered so cut the old ones out and welded some new repair panels in, a lot of time measuring and "adjusting" to make sure the front end was nice and square. Then just put some rust prevention/primer on them to protect them until its painted. Pictures below -

 

Also has anyone ever patched up the lower windscreen surround, looks like it has had some water collect there at some point and it has rusted back. i have tried to make a patch for it but not had much luck due to the sweep and tight radius's. could ideally do with another donor body to cut the section out of.

 

cheers

 

Nick